EGR value...
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: OK
EGR value...
Please help...
I went to Autozone the other day because my check engine light was on.
They said that my EGR value needed to be cleaned. I looked at the manuel and it is not there. Does anybody know exaclty where it is located?
Is there a website with a picture of a Ford F150 engine pointing to maybe an EGR value and other parts that a manuel just don't point too. If not, that would be a good idea...
Brad
I went to Autozone the other day because my check engine light was on.
They said that my EGR value needed to be cleaned. I looked at the manuel and it is not there. Does anybody know exaclty where it is located?
Is there a website with a picture of a Ford F150 engine pointing to maybe an EGR value and other parts that a manuel just don't point too. If not, that would be a good idea...
Brad
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
From: South Jersey
EGR value...
You didn't mention what year or which engine you have. I have a 98 F150 with the 4.6. If you have the 4.6 this should help.
If you open the hood and stand at the driver's side fender- look at the rear of the plastic cover on the very top of the engine. The EGR is located between the rear of the plastic cover and the firewall. It's round- about 2-3 inches in diameter,and is mounted to the side of the intake manifold. It has a vacuum hose on top and it's mounted with (2) 10mm bolts that you'll need a long socket and an extension to reach. There is a mounting bracket attached to the rear bolt (it's actually a stud--the nut on top holds the previously mentioned mounting bracket for a hose that runs from one side of the engine to the other) that you'll need to unbolt and swing out of the way first, then a long 10mm socket can reach the actual mounting bolts.
But before you do that you have to break free the large nut that connects the exhaust tube that runs vertically down from the EGR vavle to the exhaust manifold. It's the tube that carries the exhaust gas up to the intake to be recirculated. I think it's an 1 1/16" nut. You may want to spray it lightly with WD40 or some other penetrating oil before trying to break it free. Be careful of what you are leaning on while doing this... mine was rather tight and required two hands, so I was leaning on my elbows. Don't lean on the Brake master cylinder or any sensors!
Once the valve is out, you can clean it out with carb or FI cleaner and a small wire brush. Only clean out the two large holes- not the vacuum port on top or you may ruin the diaphragm inside. NOTE: You will also need to clean out the matching port on the intake manifold with the cleaner and brush. Place a rag under the hole to catch any debris and cleaning fluid so it doesn't make a mess. If you suck on the vac port on top (clean it off first!), you should feel the valve move slightly and spring back when you stop. If it doesn't move it may require more cleaning or even replacement. Be sure to take the ID number off it to the parts store so you get the right valve if you are replacing it. My first trip got me the wrong valve!
I can take a pic of mine and email it if you want, just let me know your email address. I just did it the other day. I had the same check engine light and stopped for a scan at an Autozone. Saved me $60, since I returned the new valve they told me I needed.
~Rob
If you open the hood and stand at the driver's side fender- look at the rear of the plastic cover on the very top of the engine. The EGR is located between the rear of the plastic cover and the firewall. It's round- about 2-3 inches in diameter,and is mounted to the side of the intake manifold. It has a vacuum hose on top and it's mounted with (2) 10mm bolts that you'll need a long socket and an extension to reach. There is a mounting bracket attached to the rear bolt (it's actually a stud--the nut on top holds the previously mentioned mounting bracket for a hose that runs from one side of the engine to the other) that you'll need to unbolt and swing out of the way first, then a long 10mm socket can reach the actual mounting bolts.
But before you do that you have to break free the large nut that connects the exhaust tube that runs vertically down from the EGR vavle to the exhaust manifold. It's the tube that carries the exhaust gas up to the intake to be recirculated. I think it's an 1 1/16" nut. You may want to spray it lightly with WD40 or some other penetrating oil before trying to break it free. Be careful of what you are leaning on while doing this... mine was rather tight and required two hands, so I was leaning on my elbows. Don't lean on the Brake master cylinder or any sensors!
Once the valve is out, you can clean it out with carb or FI cleaner and a small wire brush. Only clean out the two large holes- not the vacuum port on top or you may ruin the diaphragm inside. NOTE: You will also need to clean out the matching port on the intake manifold with the cleaner and brush. Place a rag under the hole to catch any debris and cleaning fluid so it doesn't make a mess. If you suck on the vac port on top (clean it off first!), you should feel the valve move slightly and spring back when you stop. If it doesn't move it may require more cleaning or even replacement. Be sure to take the ID number off it to the parts store so you get the right valve if you are replacing it. My first trip got me the wrong valve!
I can take a pic of mine and email it if you want, just let me know your email address. I just did it the other day. I had the same check engine light and stopped for a scan at an Autozone. Saved me $60, since I returned the new valve they told me I needed.
~Rob
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
From: Tulsa, OK
EGR value...
If you have a 4.2L, the EGR valve is right below the Air Intake and throttle body. It is a cylinder about 3 inches in diameter. It has GREEN vacuum hose about 3/4" thick coming off the top.
New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
EGR value...
you may also want to check the vacume line to it they are plastic
and tend to get minoir cracks in them you cant see the cracks
but the could be there from the heat off the engine i had to change mine along with the sensor to fix my prob.
just a thought if cleaning the sensor dosent work
they doint recomend using any type of solivent on the sensor to clean it for it has a tendency to damage the diaphragm
they just say to clean it with a wire wheel to buff the exhaust
deposites from the egr valve mounting surface on the manifold
the mounting surface of the egr also inside the two ports
and tend to get minoir cracks in them you cant see the cracks
but the could be there from the heat off the engine i had to change mine along with the sensor to fix my prob.
just a thought if cleaning the sensor dosent work
they doint recomend using any type of solivent on the sensor to clean it for it has a tendency to damage the diaphragm
they just say to clean it with a wire wheel to buff the exhaust
deposites from the egr valve mounting surface on the manifold
the mounting surface of the egr also inside the two ports
New User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: copperas cove, TX
EGR problem
i also went to autozone and found out that my ERG valve needs to be cleaned. i've never really worked on a truck besides changing oil or tires. would y'all recommand me taking it to a professional or is it pretty easy to do? and one other question how long can i hold off on fixing it?
