traction issues

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Jun 1, 2013 | 12:37 AM

Killgore

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From: Wichita, Kansas

traction issues

So I have a 1973 Ford F250. I haven't driven it in a while due to getting a new interior installed but I did get significant wheel hop on acceleration. It is the 390/C6/4.10 combo. It does have A/T tires. What is the best thing I can do to glue the rear tires under acceleration? The motor has been liberated of the smog crap but the timing is still retarded. And it has headers

Jun 1, 2013 | 01:24 AM

nine inch rear

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From: Dublin CA

Lower the rear tire psi, add some sand bags to the bed, keep your right foot out of it, or all of the above

Jun 1, 2013 | 01:32 AM

Killgore

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Keeping the right foot out of it is logical, but who can do that with a big block? I was meaning in sorts like traction bars

Jun 1, 2013 | 01:45 AM

rockdawg84

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From: Tucson, AZ

if you really want to plant the rear end you need a antiwrap bar. The problem with leafs is that they literally let the axle twist and then snap back causing wheel hop. if you can weld it is a cheap and easy fix.

here is some pics

https://www.google.com/search?q=anti...w=1276&bih=683

just know tires get expensive

Jun 1, 2013 | 02:01 AM

Killgore

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How would I even know how to start measuring to set one of those up? And I need one correct? Not two

Jun 1, 2013 | 02:26 AM

rockdawg84

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From: Tucson, AZ

yes 1 should be fine. I only run 1 on my rockcrawler and it works great. I used Ballistic Fab's ladder bar bracket (they are local for me but they ship great)

Radius Arm / Ladder Bar Mounts (2 pieces)

I used DOM tubing and built a slip and twits unit. One piece slides inside the other so no need for a shackle and I like the solid mount at the front. As for length it doesn't matter how long but longer is better. just find a solid place on a crossmember because it will create a lot of force on that long arm. Good luck.

Sam