Yes, I wound up giving him the 100 anyway as I also pulled out a good looking instrument cluster as well.

 

I everything plus mounting hardware and wiring pig tails.

 

How does one post pictures directly to this thread? All I keep getting is a prompt for a photo bucket type of web site.

 

Only Supporters can post directly from their computers. Non-supporters have to use a host site (like PhotoBucket, etc.) and post the "img" tags in their post.

 

One could easily argue compiling a how to manual is indeed supporting this site.

Photo Bucket it is!

 

I tried "photo bucket " but never liked how it worked . So i become a supporter and it works the best, plus most the adds went away.

 

Pic1 image_zps9e8dbb8e.jpg Photo by Drich0150 | Photobucket

This is the doner truck and we are looking at the massive hole that needs to be cut in the firewall of the truck to receive the factory air system.

The reason for this pic is the line of rust that has eaten away at the bottom of the hole. This line was cased by constant contact with condensate coming from the evap. The rust is really bad and has eaten through in a few places causing a water leak on the passenger side floor board. The orginal owner tried to fix this with blue silicone. While this may mask the problem it doesn't do anything but cause a bigger problem down the line. Most likely what had happened was the drain got plugged with leaves cause a slow or no drain situation of condensate (water off go the evap) allowing it to pool, and remain present when it should have drained away. The bigger problem is that the evap drain pan fills up until water breaches other compartments not designed to allow water to escape and there it remains until it evaporates on its own promoting rust and or mold. I have a fix in mind to help keep small amounts of pooled condensate off of the firewall that I will share when we reassemble the evap housing. The only real fix is to keep a clear drain.

 

Pic2 image_zpse3efa0ad.jpg Photo by Drich0150 | Photobucket

To make the template I just cut a piece of cardboard to fit that section of the fire wall, taking care to fit the edges to the natural stops on the cowel and inner fender so as to be able to center the template when I go to cut on my truck. Once I did that I just traced every opening with a sharpie very carefully. More on the template when I go to cut my firewall.

 

I ran into a problem with the AC clutch lining up correctly on my compressor and clutch from my 351m. I swapped out the 351m to a 460 out of a 76 f250. I gave away the compressor from the 460 before I realized the belts would not line up correctly. I had to buy a clutch for a 75 pickup with a 460. Should find out in the next couple weeks if it will work. The clutch from the 351 stuck out to far forward.

 

Pic 3 image_zps97fc29b8.jpg Photo by Drich0150 | Photobucket

I did not have time to get pics at the disassembly as I was in a junkyard and it really was not a good place to fuss over this stuff. But I have it laid out here for the purposes of parts identification. If I have time later I will go back and put in the numbers from the diagram as someone asked. The terms I use here to identify this parts will be used consistently through out this project.

Starting from the bottom the large Y shaped object is the defrost air diffuser. It's job is to take air from the air distributor and shunt it to the windshield.

Just above it, to the left is a vacuum reservoir canister. (It kinda looks like what v-8 juice used to come in) it's job is to provide or rather to help maintain a consistant negative pressure (provided by the engine and maintain through check valves) to the vacuum actuators, or vacuum motors. (V-motor for short) this prevents the air distributor from sending air to different vents when negitive vacuum pressure is low due to heavy load/negtive pressure use, or wide open throttle plates. (This was missing from this particular truck so I swiped it from an 80 ford truck.

one of the v-motors is located on top of the large black plastic piece with the rusty door. The v-motor is what controls this door, which happens to be your fresh air/recirculate door. Which makes the big black plastic piece it is attached to, an intake air manifold.

The intake air manifold does what it name suggests. It takes air from one of two sources and collects it in a central area to be use by the hvac system (Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning) which is what H.V.A.C stands for.

Directly next to the intake air manifold is the fresh air duct or boot. It connects the fresh air inlet on the cab of the truck to the intake air manifold, via a rubber boot. (This is what the rubber boot attaches to on the cab side.)

Above all of that is the instrument bezel. The drivers side air vent/bezel is molded into it. My non ac truck does not have this vent bezel. so I an going to try and cut this one out and fit it to my orginal. My guys do this type of work on new trucks and vans and you wouldn't even know they were not factory installed. So my hope is we can do something similar here.

 

Pic4 image_zpsce49ef96.jpg Photo by Drich0150 | Photobucket

Starting at the bottom again we see the instrument bezel

The piece above the with the v-motor attached right in the center is the air distributor. This box sends the discharge air (air out of the evap compartment) to one of three places windshield, floor or center vents. This is done by one of two V-motors, or a combination of both.

The little elbow above it is the turn out for the drivers side vent. It connects the vent bezel to the driver side duct.

The driver side duct is the rounder of the two ducts with an flexible a accordion end on it.

Sitting on top of that is the large rubber boot that connects the intake air manifold to the fresh air duct.

The last squarish piece is the passenger side air duct.

After I landed everything out I washed all of the air exchange components.

 

Pic 5 image_zpscfb5cfa8.jpg Photo by Drich0150 | Photobucket

This is the evap housing. It is the heart of the hvac system as it contains the fan, evaporator or evap, the heater core, and the freeze-stat. There are a few different performance mods we can do in the evap housing that will increase air flow, total cfm out put and increase over all capacity by about 30%. (I have an app that does load calculations. I plugged in the rough heat load needed for a super cab truck and measured out the evap and added in the new com rating and it comes out to little over 30% with the stock compressor and condenser.)

The reason it seems ford over built this evap so much is because they place an active heater core 4" from a 30 degree evap, with nothing between them but air. Ford used a very thin steel blend door coated with a spongy material to shunt air through the heater core or In Front of it when in cool mode. This means the evap had to be big enough not only to remove heat from the cab or outside air, but also compensate for the radiant heat being produced from the active heater core.

We have several mods we can make to nearly double the effective btu's over the stock system.

Not colder, but quicker pull down at higher temps. (We will discuss why not colder when we get to the freeze stat.)

 

Interesting, can't wait for these.

 

I'm collecting parts to hook up mine also, this will be very Handy.

 

image_zps00d1cc5e.jpg Photo by Drich0150 | Photobucket

Pic 6 this is the expansion valve sensing bulb. This bulb senses the temp of the refrigerant line going back to the compressor. The thermostatic expansion valve or TXV for short is a precise metering device, which must be fed a consistent volume of liquid refrigerant in order to operate properly. When the valve is fed properly it opens and closes as the system needs refrigerant. Too much and liquid floods back to the compressor not picking up the right amount of heat. Too little and the evap starves causing the refrigerant to "flash" giving up it's refrigeration properties too quickly allowing the heat to remain in the evap while the refrigerant leaves as a super heated gas. For you see the mere presents of refrigerant in the system is not enough. It is the change of state from a liquid to a gas that cause the coil to get cold. This TXV bulb senses when that change of state is happening outside of the evap(on its way back to the compressor) or too soon allowing the line to heat up. That means sensing bulb placement is critical. We must also wrap the sensing bulb inorder to maintainance accurate reading so the valve opens at the right time and closes at the right time.

Oriface tube systems use either pressure switches or freeze-stats to monitor the temp of the center of the evap coil or system pressure to cycle the clutch. Turning the compressor off starves the coil leaving it run floods it. So the switch is constantly turning the compressor on and off to maintain the correct "superheat." Which subsequently is why oriface systems on auto ac require the use of an accumulator tank/drier rather than a receiver drier. When the system runs it runs in a state of perpetual flooding allowing too much liquid to return to the compressor. With out the accumulator the compressor could hydrolicaly lock up until the refrigerant boils off then it could start again.

In the pic the sensing bulb was in the 12 o'clock position. It should have been in the 4 or 7 o'clock position.