How does one do this routinely? Saw Pop mention this in another thread. I like the idea of extending battery life. My last ones only lasted 4 years, even here in Seattle.

Do portable chargers have an equalize setting? The alternator puts out near that voltage when cold (14.2V) Probably need more like 15V to equalize I'm guessing. Need to google this, but one of you will set me straight.

I think my 3 stage RV charger has a bulk charge stage (constant current, about 45A max), absorption stage (constant voltage, about 14.4V) and float stage (13.2V). It has a desulficate cycle every 20 hours where it raises the voltage to something above 14.4V for 20 minutes. Not sure how this applies to anything, but there you go.

 

I am curious about this also.

 

Also curious. When trying to jump start a wittle car, it wouldnt turn over when using my passenger side battery, but it fired right up with the drivers side.

 

Trey,

My guess is that it had more to do with the resistance in the connection than anything else. Sometimes you get a great connection with jumper clamps, sometimes you don't. All else being equal, they (both your batteries) should have jumped the toy car with equal gusto.

Jeff,

It's too bad that you couldn't cycle your truck's batteries into the battery box of your RV every few months or so, leaving it in place for a couple of days (or more).

Since that's not likely possible (or practical) you'll either need to get a good-quality three-or-four-stage charger, and remove the positive cable on each battery in succession, charging each battery individually. A good-quality variable voltage DC supply will work as well, but you'll have to manually manage it's charge rates.

Equalizing the cells in a battery is, in essence, an over-charge of all the cells to ensure that the weakest of them comes up to full capacity. A good explanation can be found here:
Equalizing Charge For Stationary Batteries

and here:
Trojan Battery Company

Bouncing around that second site will get you some voltage examples, but remember, you also have to monitor cell out-gassing (bubbling).

You also need a good-quality battery-acid hydrometer or refractometer in the range of battery electrolyte (see eBay), to check the acid levels with a high degree of accuracy.

Yes, you can extend the useful like of flooded cell batteries. I just retired a Kirkland (Costco) battery in my old beater car, a Honda Odyssey with over a couple of hundred thousand on it. It had a date code of 2004.

But it was time.........

Pop

 

Without understanding the technicalities of it, is it beneficial to put a trickle charger or something on the battery every month or so? I have Interstate, so they come with the warranty. Mine are both brand new because I took my old ones in to get checked. When I came out they had already replaced them with two brand new ones because my old ones were just below spec. So replacing mine are apparently not a problem, but I would like to take care of them as well.

So basically, I guess what I am asking, is what are some basic battery care tips?

 

I have large cables, (welding cables) and I always get my ground from the engine, or frame, on both vehicles.

I found a long time ago,that dirty cables on the dead battery, and small jumper cables, can be a head scratching situation.

 

Ok, appreciate the info. I have to decide if it's worth it. I did some more research on my RV charger, and I was mistaken. While it has a "sulfation" mode, it only applies 14.4V for 15min every 21 hours, then goes back to 13.6 or 13.2. So, not a true equalize charge. Maybe that was too risky for the company from a liability standpoint to hit unknown batts with 15.5V from time to time.

 

This is what I am doing now for my 250 Ah AGM house battery (set on AGM setting) when it is connected to shore power:

Batteryminders Specials | BatteryMinders.com

This is what I am doing to each of my flooded (non-AGM) starting batteries when they are connected to shore power:

Batteryminders Specials | BatteryMinders.com

BatteryMinder use a different algorithm for flooded batteries than for AGM batteries. The first unit above is AGM/flooded selectable. The second is flooded-only, but BatteryMinder also makes the second in an AGM-only unit as well:

http://batteryminders.com/details.php?prod=2012-AGM

Yes, my old $2,500 2500w Xantrex inverter/charger (which only lasted 5 years!) had an "equalization" setting but it would not do it on the AGM setting because equalization will blow AGM's up with too much current.

From what I have determined (and I am definitely not electrically knowledgeable) the BatteryMinder computer controlled pulse/de-sulfate mode is better than equalization.

YRMV

 

Some good info on the batteryminder site, Tim, thanks for this. These are truly maintainers more than chargers arent they? I mean, 2A or 8A is going to be a slow bulk charge rate after dry camping drains the house batts. I still need the 45A power dynamics converter/charger to bring them up quickly I would think, especially if charging from the generator. But for maintaining both the house or starting batts, that second unit you listed looks like a good option to throw on the rig over the weekend every 6 months or so to desulfate.

 

BWST: "The general rule of thumb is C/5, or Capacity (in amp-hours) divided by 5. So an 80-amp charger is the right size for a 400Ah battery bank (400/5=80)."

Read more in the attached pdf.

I will never buy an inverter/charger again. Xantrex (Schneider's) support was insufficient on the out of warranty inverter/charger and when one goes, both go. But yes, I am looking for an inside the van mountable 70 to 80 watt bulk/absorb/float RV charger-only to bring my house battery up quick. [2500 w inverters (maybe not pure sine wave like my Xantrex Prosine) but good modified sine wave are coming down in price and are available everywhere.]

But for float I would rather use the 8 amp BatteryMinder since it automatically desulfates.

My understanding is that "equalization" is merely an older method of desulfating.

See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desulfation

"Batteries which have sat unused for long periods of time can be prime candidates for desulfation. A long period of self-discharge allows the sulfate crystals to form and become very large. Some typical cases where lead acid batteries are not used frequently enough are planes, boats (esp sail boats), old cars, and home power systems with battery banks that are under utilized.
Some charging techniques can aid in prevention such as equalization charging and cycles through discharging and charging regularly. It is recommended to follow battery manufacturer instructions for proper charging.
SLI batteries (starting, lighting, ignition; i.e. car batteries) have less deterioration because they are used more frequently vs deep cycle batteries. Deep cycle batteries tend to require more desulfation, can suffer from overcharging, and can be in a very large bank which leads to unequal charging and discharging."

See also: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Desulf...nd_desulfation

 

Like that rule of thumb. Have a 225ah bank of 2 cart batts now, but will need more charger if/when I add 2 more.

I'm hoping my expereince with the Xantrex prowatt 2000 inverter will be ok. I was nervous about combining it with the converter/charger so I bought it stand alone. Haven't hooked it up yet.

Ok, will need to consider the batteryminder for float/desulfate. Would be good for the truck, the boat and the camper once in a while. Maybe even the lawn tractor and utility trailer batts.

 

Yup, they're expensive, but I have installed them on my 6-wheeler, Bronco, and Corvette. We should put one on the boat too. FYI, I talked to the "guy" at battery minder because I didn't know whether to buy the 2012 or the 2012 AGM for my starting batteries which are flooded now, but I have run AGM's in the past (apparently if you can find an AGM marine which has the Ford OEM rated cold cranking amps, you can use an AGM marine battery without killing your alternator).

The "guy" said to buy the 2012 because it will not overcharge the flooded batteries and will still work on AGMs. But the 2012 AGM will be too harsh on flooded batteries due to its different charging algorithm.

I disconnected the SurePower battery separator between my house and starting batteries because I kept going through alternators. Since I have a two alternator setup on the 7.3 (OEM in bottom position and Auragen 5kw AC generator in top position) my house and starting systems are now completely independent and the MMPT solar charger runs only to the house battery. This is one of the best discussions on the house/starting battery issue, anywhere:

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/vie...hp?f=14&t=8842

 

So you are running the camper off the truck batteries?

My TT has its own batteries which on the 3rd or 4th day start to get weak which I then use my generator to charge for a couple hours. When running and driving my truck also charges these batteries threw the trailer connector and when the TT is home I always leave it plugged in to 110V which also charges and maintains the batteries.

For the batteries in the truck, the only time I put them on a charger is for over winter. I use a battery tender for this and it works absolutely wonderful! Otherwise as long as you aren't drawing off the truck batteries for anything they will remain charged and get charged every time you drive. But if you leave the truck sit for a month at a time or more you may still need a battery tender to keep the batteries up.

Now if you are running the camper off the truck batteries you will need to run the generator every few days to keep them charged while camping. If your drive home is around 2 hours or more that should be enough to bring up any weak batteries to near full power again but it would be a good idea to put a trickle charge on it when you get home over night. Like I said if you park the truck and not use it for some time (until next camping trip) I would get a tender and just leave it plugged in any time the truck is home. Even though it is very low amp it will bring up and keep a low battery charged.

Here is my video of the first start of my X in the spring after a 6 month winter storage on a battery tender. These batteries have like an 06 or something stamp on them.

 

In my case, I'm using the truck as a daily driver year round, and just load the camper 5-6 times a year. The camper has it's own pair of 6V batts.

Looks like none of my batts are getting equalized and maybe that contributes to the shorter life. My camper is plugged in whenever it's off the truck - but as I found out, the 3 stage Power dynamics converter/charger is not equalizing, though it does take them out for a run every 21 hours at 14.4V.

I need to consider the tender option for the truck over a weekend every six months or so to equalize/desulfate those starting batts. The camper batts could benefit from this as well. I'm toying with buying a tender for the camper batts, and using that instead of the converter/charger while the camper is off the truck. Then moving it to the truck for a weekend desulf/equalize every 6 months.

 

O.K., I am a big talker here, because although I have cut the hole and mounted this on the passenger side of my van, I haven't finished wiring it up yet. I do have the 30 Amp receptacle adapter to 120 volt plug so I can plug it into a 10 gauge cord running to a weather proof 15 Amp outlet on the exterior of the garage which is sufficient for my needs except while at an RV park.



30A Stainless Steel RV Power Inlet | Marinco

My current plan is to wire the Marinco to a regular steel double gang box containing 2 duplex 20 Amp household receptacles (total four receptacles) which I will mount under the floor trap door I built on the door side of the van and merely plug in the three BatteryMinders there (the larger BatteryMinder for the house battery and the two smaller 2012 BatteryMinder units one each for the starting batteries and, yes, I am installing (maybe Marinco maybe cheaper Harbor Freight?) battery switches to isolate the starting batteries while on shore power so that each starting battery is separately tended/desulfated).

As an aside, my four solar panels only charge the house battery and have nothing to do with the starting batteries. And finally I would like to install a switch between the house battery and the starting batteries in the case I need to jump them. This will be easier when I move the under the hood starting battery to the frame rail as MTDewX once suggested.

The reason that I am a big talker is that right now I just have an AC shorepower cord hanging out of bottom of the van running up the driveway under the garage door to the recepticale inside to power the BatteryMinders. Definitely looks trashy but works.