Just joined today. Need some input from those who have been there before.
My '89 F150 is a SuperCab XLT, long bed 4x4 with a 5.0l and AOD.

It served me well for many years as my daily driver; hauler; fishing/camping truck. For the last 10 or so years, it has just sat, waiting for something to be hauled. Has just under 150K miles; used less than 2,000/ year, now.

A couple of years ago, after replacing a dead battery, I went to start it. The ignition switch (on the column) came apart, and evidently one of the internal pieces shorted across something. A little smoke came up from under the dash.

I replaced the switch, and it started up. However, it ran badly, and the gauges were affected. The gas gauge became less reliable than it was (have a bad sender in the rear tank; now neither tank level is reliable), the oil pressure gauge reads high or low (not related to actual pressure), and the Volt meter went off the scale to the low side and stayed there. The temp gauge seems to work ok. After running and driving for a while, the engine smoothed out, and it was acceptable as an occasional hauler.
It passed smog twice, but mileage was bad, and it seemed to be rich. I have always suspected that the short did something to the computer.

Lately, it was very hard to start, and barely idled until warm. Once warm, it ran ok. Last week, it began to ping under power. When I tried to start it the next day, it took a minute to fire, and was making a clacking noise I never heard before. When it started, it made a loud lifter-like noise (like a collapsed lifter), and was missing on one cyl. The noise was loudest on the driver side.

A cold compression check showed all cyls at 175-185 psi, except for #6, which was 155 psi. I tried to run the codes with a SunPro scanner, but the light on the scanner came on and never blinked. Scanner instructions say computer is bad. I tried the jumper and check engine light trick, and the light never came on. Checked the bulb; it's good. Pulled the left side rocker cover and found #6 intake push rod was bent. I suspect a stuck valve caused it.

Decided to do a valve job, but when the heads came off, I found that all pistons were heavily carboned. When I pulled the lifters, I found that all of them are worn concave. I figure that the cam is flat, also.

I ran the numbers to rebuild the engine myself, or buy a remanufactured engine. It turned out that it is better for me to get the reman. Less time spent; 3 year warrantee.

Now my dilema. Since the 5.0l was always under powered for the S/C long bed, would it be better to get a 5.8l reman? I'd like to get a little more power while getting the same or better mileage.

If I go with the 5.8l, what would I need to replace? Computer with one from a 5.8l truck? FI plenum and intake?

I plan to replace the cats, and add shorty headers.
Sorry for the saga, but I figure complete info is best. Any input?

Update:
Looking through many, many posts, it appears that I will have to change the computer, lower intake,
air pump crossover tube, flex plate and Y-pipe. Since I'm planning to change the cats, the Y-pipe will not be an issue.
Am I close?

 

Sounds like you've read through the nessisary stuff to know what you need. Unfortunately you are in ca and require the smog stuff. But that's ok.
I would suggest getting a complete motor from the salvage yard and putting it in. You'll have all the stuff needed except the flexplate. I'm pretty sure most of your accessories will work but not sure because of the extra height of the 351 and i can't picture in my head if the accessories have both bolt patterns.
Anyway, switch to a 351 computer but use all of your existing wire harness. It will all plug right in

Still need to diagnose what made the smoke under the dash and why the gauges aren't working correctly.

 

All these motors were smothered badly in '89(tiny camshafts) so you won't be any more impressed with an '89 spec 5.8, if you do go this route a '94 spec motor would be much better but you will need a 5.8 donor motor to pull parts from(oilpan, timing cover, intake, distributor, exhaust manifolds, flexplate) because none of these pieces will transfer from the 5.0. A simpler upgrade would be a '94 spec 5.0 longblock, put all the above parts from your existing motor on it and change the distributor drive gear to steel and plug it in.

 

After pricing all the parts and machine work needed, it came to around $1500. I decided to save a lot of my labor and time, and got a long block from S and J. It cost less than $1400 delivered. I still spent $1500 with the belts,hoses, and cleaning materials, but it was a lot less hassle and work. Plus, I didn't have to move the block, heads, and crank around without a truck.

I decided that I would make everything else work, too, so while at O'reilly's, I got a driver side window motor. I went to a JY and got an instrument cluster with a tach out of an '89 Bronco. Did the oil pressure gauge mod on it. The gear selector indicator on mine had the plastic sheath broken (like many old Fords), but I got a N.O.S. one for a E40OD on Ebay. It says PRND21 instead of PRNODD1, but I don't much care about that.

While installing everything, I relocated the PCV vacuum to the tree on the plenum, and routed the brake vacuum to the old PCV fitting on the rear of the plenum. I also routed #8 plug wire by itself.

I primed the oil pump and galleries by spinning the pump with a speed handle. I got about 40 PSI on a direct reading gauge. Then I cranked the engine for a couple of minutes with the cap off and the plugs out, to get the air out, and the gauge read over 50 PSI. Put the cap on and the plugs in, and it fired right up. Ran it for about 20 min at 1800-2000 RPM, shut it down, and timed it to 10deg BTDC. Took her for a spin, and she runs fine. Felt good to have a reliable truck again.

The original instrument cluster must have been toasted, because all the instruments now work, including the fuel gauge. The "Check Engine" light works, also. My computer might be OK. I still need tank sender units. The rear reads fairly accurately, and the front reads right until the tank is about half full, then it is unreliable. That will be the next project. Then the A/C.

Heck, I might even throw on some seat covers and a MAACO or 1Day paint job. She'll be good for another 24 years!

 

If your gear shift selector said PRNODD1, you do not have an E4OD, you have an AOD. Actually you wouldn't have an E4OD anyway in 89 as they weren't introduced until late 1990. Just thought you might like to know if you ever had to do anything to the tranny.

Aside from that, glad you got her back on the road!

 

Thanks. I have an AOD, but I could not find a gear indicator for it. I got NOS part from Ebay. It is for a different tranny. That's OK. PRND21 works for me.

I've got just under 50 miles one it, and I'm about to pull the codes to see if anything is indicating. The truck starts right up and has good power (for a stocker), but occasionally it surges at idle. May have a sensor or two out of whack, or the ECC may be faulty.

Got the windows working and replaced the turn signal switch. Now, everything works but the A/C.

 

AOD indicators are very hard to find. The only place I know that sells them is LMC Truck. I had to replace mine a while back after I took the steering column out of my truck. I forgot to unhook the wire before I dropped the column and stretched the wire. At the time LMC didn't have any in stock so I wound up having to repair mine using parts from 2 different indicators. The one you have is probably for a C6. But they will all work.

Again, very glad to hear you got her back on the road. The surging at idle is most likely from either the TPS or IAC sensors.

Good luck and if you have any other questions feel free to hollar!!