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Houston I found a problem.....

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Old May 27, 2013 | 12:31 AM
  #1  
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Houston I found a problem.....

I was pulling my EBPV sensor to clean it when I noticed this.



I couldn't get the bolt to screw all the way back in. I get 1/8 from touching off and it locked up like I hit bottom. Are the 2 bolts diffrent lengths?
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 01:53 AM
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Those two bolts are what holds your fuel filter bowl in place. Sorry if you already knew that. Make sure your bowl is aligned properly and try again. I am not sure about the bolt lengths but I believe they are the same. I did a bowl delete kit and the bolts I used were the same length into the new "Y" block. Make sure you take the tube off to your manifold and inspect/clean it out as well. I used a spider gear cleaner from my swamp cooler and it worked great. Its a really flexible small snake tool abour 24" long, and worked just right for this application. Inspect the tube really well for hole or cracks. If you find any replace the tube. A plugged or broken tube will cause the same issue. Good Luck .
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 02:01 AM
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I pulled it off and used brake cleaner and a triangle shape weed eater string on a drill. For now since I don't have time to mess with the bolt I threw a couple washers on it and tightened it down. I put never sieze on the threads and all the way down I have no resistance putting it in until the bottom.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 06:01 AM
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There are two, lets call them locating studs on the fuel bowl that put the bowl in the right position against the resevoir. Loosen the other bolt and see if you can get the bowl to settle into place. You should be able to see if it is tight up to the resevoir with a small flash light.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 09:10 AM
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^ what that guy said, I also believe mine were the same length when I had them out.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 09:41 AM
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cameeks:

Bro, you need to take care of this, because uneven tension on your HPOP reservoir can cause it to crack. The proper torque spec is 18 ft. lbs. on those bolts. I don't recall them being different lengths.

If for some reason you think you need to remove the entire fuel bowl and HPOP res to re-seat in the next few days, call me (will send in PM). I have all three sizes of the viton fuel sleeves you'll need. I may also have a spare used HPOP gasket as well, left over from a previous job. Let me know and we can meet somewhere to get them to you (free, of course, brother). Hopefully you won't need to do all this, but you never know.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 10:04 AM
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If it was an alignment issue wouldn't the gap be on the back side? Last person to work on it pretty much can do it in his sleep. He is part of the forums but I'll leave his name out of it.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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I just went and double checked the back side and the hpop is flush with the front of the engine and both pedestals of the fuel bowl are flush with the back of the hpop.

The bolt behind the coolant hose never backed back out.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cameeks
If it was an alignment issue wouldn't the gap be on the back side? Last person to work on it pretty much can do it in his sleep. He is part of the forums but I'll leave his name out of it.
HA! Yeah, I'm sure he can!

Now I'm wondering if the bolts are in fact a different length. The good news is that you can remove these bolts without unseating anything that will leak oil or fuel. It basically keeps the fuel bowl securely in place inside the engine. It just doesn't make sense that your bolt is that far out. I wonder if it got cross threaded when it went in. I don't think there's a lot of the bolt threads inside the fuel bowl housing, so maybe it was slightly off a bit.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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The only part that sucks is I put elc in and to remove the other bolt I would have to pop that hose off.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by cameeks
The only part that sucks is I put elc in and to remove the other bolt I would have to pop that hose off.
When I replaced my HPOPs (three different times), I don't remember having to remove that hose. If I did, there was minimal spillage (I run ELC as well, so don't want to lose any). But I'm pretty sure I left the hose where it was. I believe I used a short socket with a short extension to get around the hose, and simply bent the hose to make room for the bolt. Or use a box-end wrench.

To top it all off (no pun intended, with the coolant issue)...I think you'll only need to slightly loosen that bolt behind the hose anyway...not take it out much. I'm 99% sure you can do that without removing the hose after looking at mine. You just don't want that one bolt tightened all the way to the torque spec before tightening the other one down. If using a box end wrench, 18 ft. lbs. isn't much torque. Basically, get them both equally snug. Again, it's to keep the fuel bowl in place so it's not going to affect "performance" of anything...except that if your fuel bowl is able to bounce around, it could damage your HPOP reservoir.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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Ill try it when I get back.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 02:01 PM
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I had my bowl off and didn't remove any hose. I just pushed it on the side enough to get the extension and socket in there. Unless I used a wrench on that one, I honestly don't 100% remember.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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I never removed the vertical hose. either a wrench on that side or like said before a short extensoin works.

best of luck..

and I am pretty sure the bolts are a matching set.
 
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Old May 27, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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Problem solved I hope. I pulled the bolt back out and was a little curious. I went back to my box of parts when we did the upper half and found the turbo bolts. I noticed that they were diffrent lengths and colors and that the shorter one matched the one that is working now. The one that wouldn't fit (long one) was 3.200" long and the short one is 2.750" long. If someone has their bolts out can you measure it and let me know it is the right one?
 
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