I had a similar problem. I had replaced the rear rotors twice. Thought that one of them was warped. turned out that was not the problem. It turned out to be the Parking brakes, I redid the parking brake and it cured my issue. The shoe in the passenger side rotor was the issue. I had uneven wear on the shoe. Now that is just what happened with me. just one more thing to consider/ look at/ replace.

Bill

 

I had a similar problem.. As it turned out, I wasn't using a torque wrench on the lugs. After I started torquing them to the 165 ft lb, problem seemed to be better. This was after two sets of new tires, rear bearings, brakes, rotors and a lot of aggravation!

 

I can see that causing problems. However, I always use a torque wrench in a criss-cross pattern to torque them to the final torque.

 

I don't want to thread jack but a quick quest since there is some experience in this thread. On my '99 SD I have developed a brake shudder/vibration which feels much like warped rotors, and has became significantly better and r&r my front wheels including a re-torque to the manual recommended 150lb-ft. While the wheels were off I check out my front hub bearings and the passenger side seemed to growl quite a bit when spun by hand, though I can't notice it while driving. Does this sound to be a likely culprit of the brake vibration or not? BTW the brakes are quite fresh and the rotors look great without any major warping noticed while free spinning the front wheels.

 

The growling when you spin them sounds like a hub bearing on its way out (or possibly the axle shaft needle bearing...? edit:, nevermind, I think that only spins when the axle shaft spins). Did you check for possible warped rotors with a runout gauge? You may already know this, but rotor warping isn't usually detectable by feel or sight unless it is very severe. The usual limit from what I've read is only .003 inches of deflection. Usually it isn't actual warping, but uneven deposits of pad material onto the brake rotor. There are many that will tell you that brake rotors do not warp and what everyone calls warped rotors is just an uneven transfer or friction material to the rotor caused by holding the brakes after coming to a stop with hot brakes, but I won't get into that argument right now.

 

That's not it. I think it is in the back.

 

Okay, I've been living with this issue for a while since I just haven't had the time or the money to fix it recently. It's really starting to annoy me since my Nissan is out of commission for ball joints and emission issues and I've been driving the 350 as a daily driver. (Which I definitly don't mind other than the doubling of my gas budget.)

I believe I already mentioned that I had replaced rotors and pads on all four corners and that I also get the vibration while using the e-brake as well. I've noticed the last few days that when I let off the gas while doing 65 I get a high frequency vibration that almost feels and sounds like very light tire tread noise, but my tires are not noisy (Revo 2s) and I would have that noise all the time.

Right before I pulled into the parking lot at work this morning I figured I would try something else since the road was completely empty. I slowed to about 30 or so and put the truck into 2nd and then 1st gear and got the EXACT same vibration I get when using the brakes. I would have noticed this a long time ago if it were a manual.

So now I'm thinking it might be drivetrain for sure. What you do you folks think?

 

since your truck is a CC LB... carrier bearing?

 

I suppose it is possible. I had one go out on my Nissan a few years ago, but all it did was make a whinning noise and get hot. I'll have to take a look at it, if that is it hopefully it isn't as expensive as the Nissan, which was $120+. Even the guy at the parts counter was shocked when I picked it up. He even asked me if I checked NAPA and O'Reilly, since he thought that price was robbery, I had and told them they were even more than their price. It didn't surprise me since it cost me $350 to replace the alternator with another Nissan OEM. That's one thing I like about domestic vehicles, the parts are so much cheaper!

 

Yeah wouldn't hurt to check it out. Take a look at u-joints too while you're under there. Never know...

 

I was actually leaning towards u-joints more, but didn't even think to check the carrier bearing. I think I may just drop the whole rear driveshaft and put it in four wheel drive and drive it down the block in "front wheel drive" to see if it goes away. If it does I'll just replace all the u-joints and the carrier since it is only $20-30 for a new one.

 

Not in the rear end.

 

Well I decided to crawl under the truck a little while ago and take a look, it took me about 5 seconds to find the problem, and I don't know how missed it before. It was plain as day on the rear u-joint. The seals on two opposing bearing caps (the two that go into the drive shaft ears) were partially off and you could tell there was stuff inside the caps.

I unbolted the rear retainers and tried to move the yolk and it was frozen. I went ahead and pulled the drive shaft off the spline behind the carrier. Covered the spline with a plastic bag, to keep dirt off of it, and took it for a test drive in "front wheel drive". I was already certain I found the problem, but wanted to be sure.

Sure enough, no more vibration. I also noticed that my brakes seem much stronger! I just about put myself through the windshield trying them out. I think it was somehow effecting the ABS, I don't know how, but I just know the truck stops much quicker now. Anyhow, going to head down to the parts store and pick up a new u-joint. Hopefully I'll have it all fixed and back together by dinner.

Thanks everyone for your advice and I'll be sure to update this once everything is done and working correctly.

 

FINAL RESULTS:
Okay, for anyone who finds this thread in a search, the problem turned out to be a frozen u-joint at the differential.

The two bearing caps in the drive shaft ears were completely seized (I honestly don't know how it drove as well as it did). I replaced the u-joint and the vibration is gone and brake performance has improved as well for some reason. Very frustrating to know that this was all caused by a $15 part after I changed: Ball joints (as well as the front hub bearings), front brake pads and rotors, and the rear brake pads and rotors.

It wasn't a complete waste though as my ball joints were very bad, and I had a front hub bearing about to go out due to water intrusion that I caught while replacing the ball joints. Brakes aren't expensive and were close to being needed anyway, although it would have been nice to not spend money on all new rotors.

It was just odd that the vibration only occurred on braking and not while cruising or accelerating, thus the confusion over what was causing it. Hopefully this thread will be found by someone with the same issue and keep them from chasing their tail as I did.

 

When you brake it changes the angle of the driveline in a way that only braking can do and maybe that was enough to cause it. Thanks for the update.