i believe you're correct, but you'll learn a lot more about it than i know by doing a quick google search for a dodge/cummins forum and browsing that for 15 minutes.
in general, engines with a central injection pump like ours and hard lines running to simple mechanical injectors, are great for running various oils, whereas newer engines with their electronic injectors and computerized controls are more picky about fuels

 

The older guy we got the car, oil, centrifuge, and more from has an older dully dodge truck with that engine, he will be selling it soon and I was going to look into it to get an idea on value if it was the 12valve because I have heard those are really hard to come by.

 

Mayhap its a 4bt?
Wanna sell it cheap lol

 

So what does good wmo sell for that has also been settling for years. I'm thinking I may want to sell off 500 gallons or so.

 

i've never paid for WMO myself, usually its just given away to whoever will take it. i'll come take it off your hands for free

 

Where are you located? If you have a good way of transfering it, I still have to move it home. (Just south of Salem to Salem) Help me move it and I'm sure I can get you a hundred gallons or more, possibly 250 gallons.

 

well i'm up around seattle, so getting to you would be a several hour drive each way. not the most efficient thing around

 

Well, the more I think about it, who wants to trade some vegtherms or heat exchangers just something so my family feels like its a good deal and I can build it into their vehicles to further use of WVO conversions. Trade the full load.. of WMO, something like 750 gallons. Just bring your tanks to fill up.

 

Haven't had much free tine to work in the truck but I did get a chance for a bit to build on the new centrifuge. Will have more time in the coming weeks as one of my jobs just ended. Building the centrifuge to process wvo and trying to keep it as compact as possible.

 

Those galvanized pieces will be coated in poly in a hot minute - without the pipe-bomb heater turned on!! Replace that pipe/fittings with black-iron before use with WVO. Also, it would be MUCH better if the heater was vertically oriented and plumbed in a way that it cannot run dry. Your feed to the CF can and will slow down/stop and this design will BURN the oil. I strongly recommend a t-stat for safety (and perhaps even a dimmer switch to reduce the temp of the element). A temp gauge would also be a good idea. Cheap mechanical automotive water temp gauges work great!

About the rest of the plan... Lots of proven design fails in your proposal.

Starting with the 'currently blending'. If you are using the OE switching valve to switch between fuels - you are contaminating the diesel tank with WVO every time ya switch back to D2. It is impossible to remove all of the VO from the fuel filter this way - meaning you are starting the engine cold on a strong (cold) blend of VO from the filter - but you are also sucking cold VO (and high-temp soluble animal fats) off the bottom of the diesel tank to feed the filter. This viscous 'fuel' is working your LP and IP to death and likely coking up the combustion chamber since it is not atomizing well through the injectors. Meanwhile, every nite when ya shut down - poly is forming on every carbon steel part in your fuel system (fuel lines, filter housing, LP, IP, injector lines, etc.

Next, the vegtherm's are notorious for scorching the oil and sending little carbonized bits of death to the IP. Over and over again these little things have killed the dreams of would-be greasers. DON'T DO IT!! If you'll use a separate fuel system for VO and heat the fuel with coolant (heated fuel lines, aka - TIH 'tube in hose' and a FPHE) you get perfect temp fuel using 'free' heat. No need for extra alternators and all that nonsense...

Finally, using (2) 3-port switching valves instead of the factory (6) port valve will allow you to stagger the 'return' fuel when switching back to D2 - eliminating the problem of returning VO to the D2 tank. You can also add a 3rd 3-port valve to the 'return' on the VO line and select return-to-tank (for purging) or return to the supply valve - creating a 'looped return' which minimizes strain on the LP, dramatically increasing the heat to the fuel and limiting the temp of the fuel tank (heating the whole tank is a poor design as well).

You are in a climate that tends to not being very forgiving for a VO conversion. While it tends to stay above freezing more than even where I live - the sun never coming out for months at a time means the oil in your truck and fuel lines stays cooooold. Additionally, since competition for WVO is high in your area - you are gonna want to be able to burn PHO and high fat content oil. This requires a system with copious amounts of heat.

Carefully consider the cost of 'doing it right' the first time. It's not that much $$ and the ROI is surprisingly quick if ya drive much. The approach you are proposing has a long history of failure and ultimately costs more - without even considering the cost of downtime, repairs and the dreaded anticipation of having a vehicle that is not reliable.

Good luck and keep us posted!!!

 

Here's my old 200gal main tank. I liked the range, but this location really limited the use of my bed.





I like the (2) 100gal tanks on the sides of the bed MUCH better!!!







I mentioned that 'heating the whole tank' is a poor design. The bigger the tank, the more this is true. Not only does it take forever to actually heat the fuel, repeated cycles of heating and cooling expedite polymerization of WVO. Also, a large, flat-bottomed tank like this will prevent you from being able to use the last 10-15gals in the tank since it doesn't take much incline (or acceleration) to pool the fuel away from the tank pick-up. Drawing fuel from a sump below the tank will mitigate this problem. Putting a heat exchanger (ie, coil of alum tubing) in the sump and just having a few holes connecting sump to the main part of the tank will focus the heat on a much smaller volume of oil - greatly increasing the heat to the fuel leaving the tank and minimizing heating the whole tank. We need some heat in the tank to melt 'solid' oil so it will run into the sump and this design accommodates that.