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F-150 w/blackeye comeback build

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  #46  
Old 10-23-2013, 05:42 PM
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here's the bed.. You can see what half I have wire brushed and cleaned..


and here's a view from the side and the one cleaned wheel well


lastly here is some eye candy of the drag toy..
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps747e7c30.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psf16baf17.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psd9dab981.jpg
 

Last edited by FordYoungGun35; 10-30-2013 at 03:33 PM. Reason: fixed pictures
  #47  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:04 PM
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also in the pic of the bed are the two metal pieces on the left side heat shields for the exhaust? if so do I need them because my exhaust doesn't go that far back so I don't think there necessary
 
  #48  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by FordYoungGun35
here's pics of the tank so you can see what im seeing.. What exactly do I need to pull and unhook
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps38fa1817.jpg
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...psfb65d3f8.jpg
The metal clips at the ends of the fuel lines will snap back and up once properly levered out of position with a screwdriver. Then the lines have to be released from the fuel tank before they will come off.

Lisle makes disconnect tools that will release the springs inside the fuel line that secure it to the tank. The link is to the complete cheapy set; if you don't want or need all of them I think the 5/16" is the correct size. (Or you can get the complete disconnect set or the other complete quick disconnect set if you'd rather.) To use it, close it around the nipple on the tank then slide the narrow end into the inside of the fitting on the fuel line. Push the fuel line back towards the tank and push the tool into the fitting until it's flush. The line should come right off then.

To reconnect the fuel line, push it back onto the fuel tank nipple. No tools necessary. And since you're this deep into it you might as well replace the fuel filter too, if it needs it. You'll have easy access to it with the bed off.
 
  #49  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:08 PM
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ahh ok now I understand why you don't understand me your 96 is different from the trucks I have worked on to get the pump out. See the clips like on the lines I circled it in red in the pic below. Take a flatbladed screw driver underneath it like you are going to pry it off those are metal so you won't break em it should be fairly easy. Now you have to have a special tool to disconnect the lines of the fuel pump.
This link is similar tools your local autozone or such should have them fairly inexpensive my buddy got a similar set for $5 new: Lisle 37000 Air Conditioning Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set GM Ford Chrysler | eBay

When you have that tool you push the tool over the metal part of the fuel line on the pump. Push it forward you may need to wiggle the lines a bit to get it to come off they are kinda stubborn.


For putting it back on it should just pop back on by pushing the line into the fuel pump itself line (Don't forget which line goes where take pictures and wrap it with colored tape so you know as I don't remember if on 96 they have certain sizes to fit on.) Other then that great work going on sorry for the confusion earlier. Also for the little white breather on top in the middle of the tank I would advise you to take the whole thing out a it does break easily trying to take the hose off the breather.
Trav
 
  #50  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by FordYoungGun35
also in the pic of the bed are the two metal pieces on the left side heat shields for the exhaust? if so do I need them because my exhaust doesn't go that far back so I don't think there necessary
If your exhaust doesn't go that far back I would drill the rivets and move them forward to where your exhaust does go for heat shields it wouldn't hurt anything if you did.
Trav
 
  #51  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:16 PM
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okay well i'll wait an pull the tank tomorrow so I can get the tools.. But I guess I can start on undercoating the interior for sound deadening. that being said do I need to do ay prep since its the interior?? Im doing under the carpet and the back of the cab behind the seat
 
  #52  
Old 10-23-2013, 06:24 PM
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As far as I know clean it up well maybe sand it in spots that might be a little rough start painting. I have no idea personally but that is my advice.
Trav
 
  #53  
Old 10-23-2013, 08:45 PM
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this is fairly simple, what size star bit is needed for the seat belts?
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/...ps19778650.jpg
 
  #54  
Old 10-23-2013, 08:47 PM
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I believe it is a Torx T50 or T55.
 
  #55  
Old 10-23-2013, 11:11 PM
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gracias, im gonna go ahead and replace the fuel pump while I've got the bed off, but I was shoppin around at autozone and a fuel pump wll run me about 150$ and spectra offers this Spectra Premium/Fuel Pump and Tank Assembly (F1G1FA) | 1996 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 4WD 8 Cylinders N 5.0L EFI | AutoZone.com_

its a new tank and everything already installed, so it would basically just be unhooking the old and hooking up the new right? A new gas tank wouldn't hurt I mean I would probably replace it anyway.. Plus ive got 40$ in autozone bucks saved up so it'll be 40$ off that price
 
  #56  
Old 10-24-2013, 10:33 PM
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does that look like a good deal? Got the carpet off going to lay some dynomat down..
 
  #57  
Old 10-25-2013, 10:29 AM
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At that price Black eye I believe you can go to LMC truck and upgrade to a 38gallon rear tank and then get a fuel pump separate then go to autozone and get the front tank with both tank and pump.
Trav
 
  #58  
Old 10-25-2013, 11:58 AM
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if I did upgrade to a 38 gal. would that throw my gas gauge off? cause I know the floating gauge sucks, it's never accurate..
 
  #59  
Old 10-25-2013, 12:02 PM
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all I can find on lmc is a 32 gallon tank for a bronco and I don't think it would fit, an a 18 gallon rear for my 96 at 120$ before shipping
 
  #60  
Old 10-25-2013, 12:04 PM
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I just figured since the spectra one from autozone would save me a lot of hassle since everything is pre installed
 


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