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I'm trying to replace the rear wheel cylinders and I cannot seem to get the brake line out of the back of the cylider. Help?
You may have to replace those sections of brake lines, the don't really cost too much to replace as you can buy unbent lines that you bend as required.
Or spray some PB blaster on it and let it sit and if you get it to crack loose spray some brake clean on to clean the blaster off and then make sure you don't get any in the lines as its an oil.
Thanks for the advice guys. I sprayed a ton of pb blaster waited a while got frustrated, used vise grips on the fittings, twisted the heck out of the lines, and took them off. I replaced them with this nifty napa brake line that is preflared and fitted and can be bent by hand. The lines were really ugly when I got them off so I'm glad to have replaced them. ( the two rear pieces) Those lines were really stuck though. I'll post of pic of them at some point just for laughs.
By the way, another update, I cleaned all of the oxidation and stuff off the paint with cleaner wax. The roof, tailgate, and cab look pretty good. Nice red, not pink or white.
also, tedster, I bought a shop manual. They sell them on cd in pdf form for your computer. It was only 25 dollars that way. Alittle bit of a pain to scroll through but much cheaper for reference.
So I finished my brakes, now I have some questions. My grandfather has what I think is a 292. He had wanted to swap out the 223 for this one. Can someone tell me alittle bit about this engine? I also need to know if anyone knows whether a holley 2300 series carb with a list number 4517, or an autolite 2100 will work on that engine.
Thanks for the info helps out a lot. The 2100 needs some work and the engine probably does too, it has been sitting outside under a tarp for some years at his house. But I'm gonna look into it more. Again, thanks.
Thanks for the info helps out a lot. The 2100 needs some work and the engine probably does too, it has been sitting outside under a tarp for some years at his house. But I'm gonna look into it more. Again, thanks.
I think you will need a bell for the 292 what tranny are you using now
Hello again, everyone. It's been a long time since I've posted. I've had the floor pans and cab mounts replaced at a local body shop since my last posts. The truck has been inspected and on the road too.
Here is my next set of questions. Does anyone use an Optima Redtop battery? I recently purchased one and went to put it in, but my terminals didn't fit. The battery has the side screw-in terminals and the top terminals. The connectors that I have on my battery cables are the screw in kind, but the bolt that goes through the positive terminal is too small.
So, now I am debating, should I just buy the new terminal bolt from Advance auto and keep those terminal connectors, or should I order new cables from LMC with the top mount terminals to replace the dated cables?
If I go with the new ones I wasn't sure which length to get. I have the terminals facing the front of the truck (positive to the passenger side, negative to the driver's side).
Does anyone use either on a Redtop battery?
Also, I have an aftermarket battery hold-down. Has anyone used the OEM one (the square one that borders the top of the battery) with a redtop? I am also thinking about ordering one of those, but I think the battery might be too tall for it (my aftermarket one barely has any threads left to put the nut on).
Any opinions or information on what you are using would be appreciated.
7 years later and we're not going to get any pics? Come on man!
I'd be surprised if anyone besides a restomodder has a red top. With its curved top and sides I don't think the original style battery hold down would work. I'd go ahead and measure and replace the cables to top post style.
Last edited by 65navyf100; May 19, 2020 at 10:12 AM.
Reason: grammar
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