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EPBV rebuild writeup

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Old May 14, 2013 | 07:34 PM
  #1  
Liquid10Rider's Avatar
Liquid10Rider
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EPBV rebuild writeup

Hey guys I had rebuilt my EPBV this past weekend and wanted to give a small write up on things that I had found when doing this and the dos and donts to this job.

First you will want to have everything you need before you start.
1. a rebuild kit for the valve 2C3Z9P466AB Riff Raff Diesel
2. a turbo reinstall kit (some of the parts are in the rebuild kit but this kit has better orings) GZ-14-009 Riff Raff Diesel
3. a fish scale (I liked this one since it was digital and was exactly the weight you need for the valve) American Weigh SR-5 Yellow Digital Hanging Scale, 11 by 0.01 LB Amazon
4. a brake cylinder hone Lisle 10000 Brake Cylinder Hone Amazon

Remove the turbo and the pedestal. Put the pedestal on a work bench and start disassembly as per the instructions that come with the kit. Heres a tip on how to remove the OEM eyelet from the piston rod. There isn't a jam nut on the OEM rod but yet there are two dimples in the eyelet holding it onto the rod. Take a small pair of vice grip pliers and grab hold of the rod and take regular pliers and spin the eyelet off. Now with brake cleaner or a degreaser clean the entire pedestal and wipe clean and blow dry with air. Now for the tricky part. I had to do this a few times before I felt it was ok. Take clean engine oil and your brake hone and coat the inside of the cylinder with oil and put the brake hone in and expand the feet until touching and give a little more so its nice and snug. Now with a cordless drill spin the hone quite fast and move forward and back slowly do this a few times and repeat your cleaning process. Now when I did it I went wayyyy to slow and moved forward and back really fast. Don't do that. You want to spin it fast but move it in and out slowly. Now check your cylinder. Its not going to be shiny but it will look nice and clean. If you see a lot of lines then you either went too fast in and out or went too slow on the speed or a combination of both. Now when you put the new piston in coat the cylinder with clean oil and test fit. My piston seemed to stick so I had to hone the cylinder again and again until I found the right match of spin speed and in and out speed. once the piston is in put your backplate on with the oring and snap ring. This is a little difficult since you need to compress the spring and put the back plate in until you hear it seat. Then install the snap ring. From here you will follow the instructions again. Install the turbo on the pedestal and secure hand tight with bolts and hook up the piston rod to the valve in the turbo. Now it took me a few try's to get this but I finally got it. If you turn the eyelet on the piston in (towards the pedestal) you will gain pulling resistance. If you move it the other way (away from the pedestal) you will loose pulling resistance. So turn the eyelet in a few turns and install a .01 feeler gauge between the stop and the valve arm. Hook up the spring scale and pull at 10lbs the feeler gauge should fall out. Now if the gauge falls out before 10lbs turn the eyelet in a half or full turn toward the pedestal depending how close you are to 10lbs. Repeat this until 10lbs is reached. Now when you have that lock the jam nut on the eyelet and close the valve in the turbo again and again to make sure the piston returns to fully open and moves freely throughout the entire motion then remove the turbo from pedestal and reinstall the pedestal and turbo in the same fashion as you had removed it.

Make sure all your seals and orings have a coat of fresh oil on them before installing them. If you have a DP tuner with the decel tune. Once the truck is up and running throw it into that tune and make sure the EPBV moves freely.

I hope this helps anyone that wants to do this in the near future and I do apologize for no pictures I wanted to then got so caught up in doing this that I had forgot. I did take two though that I will try and post up later on.

Any question please feel free to comment or PM me

-AJ
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 05:42 AM
  #2  
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trk98
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Joined: Feb 2004
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Excellent write up! I've been debating for a while now about rebuilding or deleting my leaky/sticking ebpv pedestal. At least if I finally make my decision ill reference this post. What was your reason for rebuilding?
 
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Old May 15, 2013 | 09:52 PM
  #3  
MTDewX's Avatar
MTDewX
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Montana
Good stuff.

if you want I can post a pic or two of mine. I am lucky to have a van so its easier to get them all hooked up.

I have a book and it said 12lb's. I will have to re check my book to make sure. maybe that is why mine wont engauge when its cold. now that its warm I dont need it till winter comes again.

thanks for taking the time for sure.

i was going delete, but had to stay and rebuild mine cause vans have a bracket that mounts to the pedestal you truck guys dont have. fyi if anybody cares.
 
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