Second 05.....same issue
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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Second 05.....same issue
I have not been in here in a long time but now that I have finally gotten another truck here I am again.
I have searched the forums and the tech folders on this issue first and I am not finding much.
I have had 2 different 2005 Super Duty trucks, both with 6.0 PSD. Both of them have the EXACT same problem. When you make the first start of the day (or any cold start after it has sat for a few hours) you just cannot crank it up and drive it. You have to give it five minutes or so of running to warm up before driving it or you will have serious driving issues the first mile or two. List of things that it may do if you just try to crank it up and drive it without warming it up:
-Chugs
-Does not want to shift to next gear
-Surges
-Runs very rough
-Puffs white smoke (only saw this once)
Essentially it is undriveable unless you warm it up. Both of my 2005's had the exact same issue. I live in the south and its certainly not cold but you cannot tell me that these trucks are simply unable to be hopped in, crunk up, and driven down the road. I feel so odd having to go outside and "warm up" my truck in the summer time.
PS. If you let it idle in the driveway for about 5 minutes then you can drive it smooth as silk no issues....
I am puzzled! Hope I am missing a TSB or something here....
Josh
2005 F350 CC Lariat DRW 6.0 PSD Fabtech Lift and riding on 37's.
I have searched the forums and the tech folders on this issue first and I am not finding much.
I have had 2 different 2005 Super Duty trucks, both with 6.0 PSD. Both of them have the EXACT same problem. When you make the first start of the day (or any cold start after it has sat for a few hours) you just cannot crank it up and drive it. You have to give it five minutes or so of running to warm up before driving it or you will have serious driving issues the first mile or two. List of things that it may do if you just try to crank it up and drive it without warming it up:
-Chugs
-Does not want to shift to next gear
-Surges
-Runs very rough
-Puffs white smoke (only saw this once)
Essentially it is undriveable unless you warm it up. Both of my 2005's had the exact same issue. I live in the south and its certainly not cold but you cannot tell me that these trucks are simply unable to be hopped in, crunk up, and driven down the road. I feel so odd having to go outside and "warm up" my truck in the summer time.
PS. If you let it idle in the driveway for about 5 minutes then you can drive it smooth as silk no issues....
I am puzzled! Hope I am missing a TSB or something here....
Josh
2005 F350 CC Lariat DRW 6.0 PSD Fabtech Lift and riding on 37's.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
Search for the term "stiction" and read. To me it sounds like a classic case of injector stiction. You might try changing your oil to 5w40 synthetic to see if that helps. You might also want to check your FICM voltage. Also, have you scanned the truck for codes?
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Junior User
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I have not been to have it scanned just yet. I wanted to do some research myself before I take it in and throw myself at the mercy of the Ford dealer. I can fix / diagnose / repair about everything on a gasoline engine but diesels are a mystery to me.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
You can have it code scanned at most autoparts stores for free. We try to help our fellow FTE members stay out of the dealer repair facilities if at all possible. That's what we're all about here---helping each other........not to mention saving a few $$$ if we can--LOL.
More Turbo
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 705
Likes: 12
From: Taxachusetts
get a scan gauge II. I think advance auto or auto zone have them. Then do a search in this forum for the x gauge ( lets you add differant pids to monitor) check the ficm main voltage and ficm logic voltage.
also google youtube videos for 6.0 diesel stiction. lots of stuff there.
also google youtube videos for 6.0 diesel stiction. lots of stuff there.
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 234
Likes: 4
From: Northern Colorado
You might do yourself a lot of good by getting an OBD scanner (Such as Torque for Android, Dashboss for iOS {either of which can cost as little as $30} or even one of the very pricey stand-alones like Scangauge 2) and check your FICM voltage and IPR pressure.
Mainly though, it sounds like you either have low fuel pressure or Stiction. I would switch to a 5w40 Synthetic, and/or add a bottle of HotShot Secret (my personal preference) or RevX (another highly reviewed one) additive, which contain chemicals which can help reduce or even reverse stiction which occurs on the oil side of the injectors.
Another diagnostic step would be to check the fuel pressure - you should have no less than 45 PSI before damage will begin to occur - 55 is the recommended minimum. When I had the same problem I found that my pressure was 20 at idle, going as low as 10 during WOT - which ruined 3 of my injectors. If you have low fuel pressure, replace the regulator with the newer-style "Blue Spring" one and be prepared to replace a few injectors (which really is a lot easier than many make it out to be.)
Mainly though, it sounds like you either have low fuel pressure or Stiction. I would switch to a 5w40 Synthetic, and/or add a bottle of HotShot Secret (my personal preference) or RevX (another highly reviewed one) additive, which contain chemicals which can help reduce or even reverse stiction which occurs on the oil side of the injectors.
Another diagnostic step would be to check the fuel pressure - you should have no less than 45 PSI before damage will begin to occur - 55 is the recommended minimum. When I had the same problem I found that my pressure was 20 at idle, going as low as 10 during WOT - which ruined 3 of my injectors. If you have low fuel pressure, replace the regulator with the newer-style "Blue Spring" one and be prepared to replace a few injectors (which really is a lot easier than many make it out to be.)
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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Ahhhh that kind of scanning. Well I will try that if I throw up any codes, also going to try the FICM testing and I am absorbed in reading all about stiction. Thanks for the info! I will keep you guys posted as to what I find out.
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Lead Driver
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Here's a more permanent fix if your comfortable doing work like this. From the Tech Folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cs-inside.html
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2006
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Yes i read that thread and I am going to have a try at that as soon as I do a few of the simpler things to try and eliminate things. Thanks again for all the advice ya'll!
QUOTE=Rusty Axlerod;13142680]Here's a more permanent fix if your comfortable doing work like this. From the Tech Folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cs-inside.html[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=Rusty Axlerod;13142680]Here's a more permanent fix if your comfortable doing work like this. From the Tech Folder: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...cs-inside.html[/QUOTE]
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,833
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
sea2sea, If you find that the FICM is running at 45 I wouldent wait give eds ficm a call that will kill the Injectors real fast, also clean up some sensers like map connection to Intake,IAT2 ,ebp,and look at the ICP and connection If oil is leaking from connection side. X2 on the weight of oil and could already be an Inject giving you the trouble .Most Use Scan Gauge and these gauges will help by knowing =senser values,Batteries,alternator,trans temp EOT and Coolent, ETC lots to list. Before I drive I look at my SGII and make sure my temps are around 80s this will also help on the tranny
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Junior User
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FICM test does not read anything. Reads open on the meter? The voltage display goes away and the number 1 pops up on the meter? Same with key on only and with engine on as well..... if the FICM was that fried then how would it even run at all?
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Junior User
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OK I feel stupid now. Had the meter on the wrong range. FICM is 59-60 key on engine off and also with engine on. Is there such thing as too high? If 60 is OK then I guess its Hot Shot or Revx time. Want to tey those before I drop a C note for a 5W40 oil change.
