New engine break-in
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 139
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From: Forest River ND
New engine break-in
I've got my 2002 7.3 up and running and was wondering what is the break-in procedure for it? It has new pistons, rings, bearings, etc. Stock rebuild with new stock injectors. Running old cam and lifters (167,000 miles) looked great. Oil is 5w-40w mobil turbo diesel full syntic. Do you do the accel and decel to seat the rings like a gasser or just drive it normal?
Thanks for all the info on these motors, this is my first diesel rebuild and I would have been scared sh@@less to try it but FTE gave me the guts to do it. Thanks for everything guys,
Ray
Thanks for all the info on these motors, this is my first diesel rebuild and I would have been scared sh@@less to try it but FTE gave me the guts to do it. Thanks for everything guys,
Ray
Butt-Head
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 9,455
Likes: 2,938
From: Reed Point, MT
There are many different schools of thought on this one....just about as many as there are stars in the sky.
Personally, I like to run them long enough for them to get to operating temperature (long time with a diesel) and then shut it off and let it cool down, check fluids/leaks, etc. Since you have a roller cam, it's not necessary to do the whole 2000 RPM for 20 minutes bit. I like to take it easy for the first thousand miles or so with lots of heating/cooling cycles. This will help bake the head gasket to it's mating surfaces. During this time, I'll also do a lot of varied driving (city/highway/loads/RPM). Change the oil. After that......run it like you normally would.
This is only MY theory and how I've always done it with my personal stuff (or recommended it be done when concerning both professional and personal customer vehicles).
Personally, I like to run them long enough for them to get to operating temperature (long time with a diesel) and then shut it off and let it cool down, check fluids/leaks, etc. Since you have a roller cam, it's not necessary to do the whole 2000 RPM for 20 minutes bit. I like to take it easy for the first thousand miles or so with lots of heating/cooling cycles. This will help bake the head gasket to it's mating surfaces. During this time, I'll also do a lot of varied driving (city/highway/loads/RPM). Change the oil. After that......run it like you normally would.
This is only MY theory and how I've always done it with my personal stuff (or recommended it be done when concerning both professional and personal customer vehicles).
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Forest River ND
Thanks Cleatus, I was thinking along those lines but figured it's better to ask then be sorry. Heating and cooling alot is something that I would not have thought of.
After posting I thought that this may get pages of ideas. Everything from drive it like you stole it to only use dino oil during break-in. Thanks again Ray
After posting I thought that this may get pages of ideas. Everything from drive it like you stole it to only use dino oil during break-in. Thanks again Ray
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,736
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From: Dalton,Ga
with my complete overhaul....this is how it went..
warm it up to temp, check for leaks,
we probably ran through 3 heat cycles
hooked to 10,000 lb camper and headed to the smokie mountains (80 tow tune)..didn't push hard, driving normal..
gave it probably 10 heat cycles and it was off to the races..
Honestly, go and buy a new truck with 20 miles or less.. Do you baby it for 1000 miles??
warm it up to temp, check for leaks,
we probably ran through 3 heat cycles
hooked to 10,000 lb camper and headed to the smokie mountains (80 tow tune)..didn't push hard, driving normal..
gave it probably 10 heat cycles and it was off to the races..
Honestly, go and buy a new truck with 20 miles or less.. Do you baby it for 1000 miles??
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