1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

66 F100 2WD Custom Cab short box, frame off build.

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  #61  
Old 09-14-2015, 12:11 AM
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Been working on cab mount repair, both sides need work. I don't have a pic before I started cutting out the old, but you can still see the driver side mount was in bad shape.





Both the inner and outer metal was rusted away. I cut the away the rusted metal by cutting back into solid material, then prepared to add the patch. This shape will take 2 separate pieces to form.


I had to cut out to prepare for the new patch.




The first section I made was for the flat bottom.


Welded in and ground down.




The side piece needed the edge to be rolled over. I used a piece of pipe to form the shape.




Welded and ground down. This is the outer piece. Now the inner piece needs to be formed.


Clamped in place for a test fit.


 
  #62  
Old 09-14-2015, 12:20 AM
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I didn't take pics of the repairing the inner panel but the process was the same. I formed the patch on the bench using 2 pieces, then welded it in and ground it down.





Finished. After welding, grinding and drilling the holes for the mount and the drain hole.




 
  #63  
Old 09-14-2015, 12:37 AM
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Here's the passenger side mount. The inner panel is not rusted out so all I have to replace is the outer, however I did have to repair a few rust holes in the inner. I forgot to mention I've been sandblasting everything as I work on it.





Same as before, cut the rust out back to solid material then patch it up using the same process as the driver's side.






This side did require more bending and rolling of the edges, and some relief cuts. Here's after welding in and grinding. I left the relief cuts unwelded so I could hammer the corners into shape once the patch was welded back onto the mount. Forming them will be much easier this way.
 
  #64  
Old 09-14-2015, 05:20 PM
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Great work

This is looking good, you have got a ways to go but it appears your moving right along, I like the mods list you put together, a lot of cool ideas, keep up the good work it looks great.
 
  #65  
Old 09-20-2015, 12:59 AM
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wow that rust repair is going well. Come help me with mine!
 
  #66  
Old 05-25-2016, 11:35 PM
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Hi all. Been a while since I posted, I've been working on my truck again and will post pics to where I'm at now. I've gotten past the bulk of rust repair, finally, and have moved on to more "fun" stuff than cutting, welding and grinding.

First I had to finish repairing the floor pans.

Pass rear cut out.


New piece welded in and finished.




Next moved to the drivers side, which was much worse.




I cut out the rest of the rusted floor pan and the lower crossmember section that had to be replaced.


I had to make a patch for the rocker panel.


I made a separate section for the upper part of the pan where it turns up from the lower part of the pan.


Here lower crossmember has been replaced


Made a paper pattern, then bent a new piece of sheet metal






Fitted and welded in.




Finally finished...
 
  #67  
Old 05-25-2016, 11:44 PM
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Got the rest of the cab sandblasted.


Here's a couple teasers of what I'm doing now.


 
  #68  
Old 05-26-2016, 12:08 AM
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Here's a quick mini project I had to do. I did not have the coil spring retainers that hold the top of the spring to the tower, I didn't have much luck finding any, so I decided to make them out of 1/8 x 1 flat stock.

First I bent the stock into a 90 degree bend. I used a torch to heat the bar up while bending. Then I took that, then rolled it over a pipe.


Then I cut the too long bent log off at the correct length, then welded on the other flat leg to complete the part. I did this because it was much easier to get the correct height of the section that clamps on the spring that try to determine where to bend it.







I then drilled holes and welded in the nuts and it was done. I thought I took pics of the finished clamp but I didn't. They're bolted in now.
 
  #69  
Old 05-26-2016, 10:37 PM
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Here's the cab after priming. I switched to black primer cause it's easier to see the contrast against bare metal when spraying.















 
  #70  
Old 05-26-2016, 11:03 PM
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Now on to some stuff that doesn't involve cutting, welding and grinding.

I bought some seats at the F100 show 2 years ago, they're out of an 05 T****a, I would rather have found ford seats but these were priced right and the right color so I couldn't pass them up. They're very comfortable. I'm working on getting them in place and will have to build custom mounts.


Installing an Ididit steering column.


I'm adding a Lokar emergency brake pedal assembly. Still getting it in place and again it will need a custom bracket to finish the install.




Going to use a Painless wiring harness.




I installed the newly rebuilt AOD and a tired 351C as a mock up engine since it's complete. It needs rings and bearings, I may or may not rebuild it and use it for a while. I have a 351W that I want to build up, but it will take some major $$ to get everything I need for it and build it.



I'm going to cut out the area marked in black and weld in a new piece of metal to get rid of the holes. They won't be needed any more.
 
  #71  
Old 05-27-2016, 06:01 AM
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Your making progress and it looks great.... Keep it up !!!
 
  #72  
Old 07-10-2016, 12:32 AM
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Got the new firewall piece welded in and ground down.



Welded nuts to the bracket the fuse panel will mount to (in grey primer) and welded it to the firewall. The painless fuse block mounts to the nuts with screws.
The yellow bracket is the bracket the Lokar E brake pedal will mount to.


The E brake cable will exit the cab floor in the hole shown in the picture. I'm making a "pod" with a hole and grommet for the cable to pass through.
 
  #73  
Old 07-10-2016, 12:43 AM
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Here's the "pod" for the e brake cable.





Pod welded in. (The copper color is copper weld thru primer) It will look better once blasted and cleaned up.

 
  #74  
Old 07-10-2016, 01:17 AM
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Working on mounting the vintage air AC unit. The AC lines will pass through the firewall where the stock heater hoses would be. I still have to make a new plate with the correct hole spacing for the AC fittings bulkhead and weld it in.

I made 2 mounting tabs with bolts welded on for the AC evaporator to mount to.

One welds to the underside of the dash panel, the other is welded to the firewall.


Here's a bracket made from 5/16 rod to hang the evaporator's front mount.



Here's the rear 2 brackets. The large bracket mounts to 2 of the original heater case mount holes.



The small "L" bracket mounts to the pad welded to the firewall.


Mounted. I still have to work out the vents and duct work routing, but I think I have it figured out. Unfortunately I'm losing most of the space for the glove box, but that's a price I'll have to pay.


 
  #75  
Old 07-10-2016, 09:15 AM
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Enjoying seeing your progress. You mods are well thought and quality. I had installed a made for a 66 slick AC kit, it also consumed most of the glove box
 


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