Sand Blasters
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 84
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From: Costa Mesa, Ca
Sand Blasters
Hello wizzards of FTE,
Looking to buy a sand blaster to strip the doors, fenders, cab, and smaller parts. I don't know a whole lot about sand blasters, but I found this on craigslist. Is this anygood? What I am worried about is getting one too strong, where it dents or warps the panels and doors.
NEW 10 gallon 55 lb capacity sand blaster - $99
Any thoughts?
Looking to buy a sand blaster to strip the doors, fenders, cab, and smaller parts. I don't know a whole lot about sand blasters, but I found this on craigslist. Is this anygood? What I am worried about is getting one too strong, where it dents or warps the panels and doors.
NEW 10 gallon 55 lb capacity sand blaster - $99
Any thoughts?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 4,962
Likes: 261
From: East KY
First impression, just looking at that one pic, you need to look at a bigger and better sandblaster. I have one identical to it that I borrowed from my friend to do the same exact job. Let's put it this way, it not only failed for me, but my friend laughed and refuses to take his sandblaster back. There doesn't seem to be a valve to adjust the amount of sand that falls out of the pot at the bottom, and those ceramic nozzles that size are a nightmare to keep from clogging. I bought this one from Northern Tool, and it's done pretty well for me. The nozzle system is far superior to that smaller one in my opinion. ALC Pressure Abrasive Blaster — 90-Lb. Capacity, Model# 40002 | Portable Abrasive Blasters| Northern Tool + Equipment It's much more expensive, but you know the old saying--you get what you pay for (usually).
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
If you plan on blasting sheet metal, I'd suggest spending the extra money and buy one capable of soda blasting. Denting and warping is caused by overheating the panel from using the wrong media and/or improper nozzle direction. The "strength" is determined by the compressor driving it, not the blaster. You need a LOT of air to do any serious blasting. Don't forget the proper protective gear to go with the blaster. Freshly stripped surfaces are highly reactive with moisture in the air and skin acids, be sure you have the proper protective coatings materials (primers or phosphate treatment) ready to apply immediately after blasting and clean cotton or plastic gloves for handling the parts.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
I have a sand blaster but for panels like doors with big flat surfaces I only do the edges and fiddly bits. You are better off stripping the big areas by hand or with chemical stripper. Or with soda as AX racer suggested, be very careful using sand.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 84
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From: Costa Mesa, Ca
ALC Pressure Abrasive Blaster — 90-Lb. Capacity, Model# 40002 | Portable Abrasive Blasters| Northern Tool + Equipment It's much more expensive, but you know the old saying--you get what you pay for (usually).
All very good info. Im trying to make sure my aresenal of tools is well built up before I kick off my restoration this summer. How mant of you guys are running air powered tools such as impact hammers and wrenches? I'm debating wether it's worth investing in a good air compressor for such tools. Or would getting a acytelene torch and using a manual wrench be a less expensive and effecting route to take?
Also my fear of using chemical stripping, is one, damaging the parts im stripping, and two having the chemicals seep out later and ruin the paint.
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
When I say chemical stripper I mean the kind you paint on, just the area you are working on. Scrape off the softened paint, wash and finish off with sanding. No danger.
A good compressor is a must as far as I'm concerned, an acetylene torch is handy but not vital.
A good compressor is a must as far as I'm concerned, an acetylene torch is handy but not vital.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 84
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From: Costa Mesa, Ca
What kind of tools are you running off of yours aussiecowboy?
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
Well firstly, you'll need a good size compressor to run a sandblaster, they are very air hungry. I also run an impact wrench, air ratchet, cut off wheel, die grinder, nibbler, tyre inflator, air chisel, drill, mini buffing/stripping wheel, long board sander, orbital sander, blow down gun, kerosene cleaning gun, stone guard gun, spray paint guns. Basically without my compressor my shop would stop.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Every shop needs a good compressor! Buy one that runs off 220V, requires a 30A circuit (6HP or larger) has a belt driven 2 or 3 cylinder piston compressor, preferably 2 stage and has at least a 60 gallon storage tank. Don't waste your money with anything less, especially don't buy anything that runs on 115V. Spend the money and buy it once, you will be glad you did. Don't put a great deal of faith in manufacturer's rating numbers, they are highly "inflated", especially on the cheaper units sold at discount stores. A truism, the cheaper the air tool, the more air is going to be needed to drive it.
Next major piece of equipment should be a MIG welder. See my MIG welding tutorial https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html for purchasing advice and to learn to weld.
Next major piece of equipment should be a MIG welder. See my MIG welding tutorial https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html for purchasing advice and to learn to weld.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 787
Likes: 1
From: Prescott AZ.
I am not a real big fan of sand blasters. If your doing a frame or other parts of that substance fine, body panels, no way, if you want a nice paint job your just asking for trouble. Of course if you are one of those that paints with a brush you will be fine. You cannot have to big of an air compressor, their is nothing more frustrating than having to wait for air to build up while you are trying to get a job done. I have a 8hp IR compressor, for what I do it is just big enough. It is also mounted in a Tuff Shed about 30 feet from the shop, when I turn it on the only thing that I hear is the radio. Stay away from the small cheap oilless compressors, they are loud and after you burn up the second one you will be thinking, why didn't I buy a good compressor to start with.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 309
Likes: 9
From: Northern IL
It sounds like you need a new compressor, and also a sandblaster. This is going to be pretty expensive in the end. I have a 33 gal compressor with a 1.5hp motor. It is on the smaller end but works just fine for the tools I use. When I sandblasted my entire truck last summer I went to the local rental place. Got a 100lb blaster, tow behind diesel compressor, all hoses, nozzles, and personal safety equipment for $250 (weekend rental). Then went to menards and bought their blasting media. All done I had about $500 in the job including the epoxy primer I put on after.
Had no issues with panels warping, but it was a VERY long weekend. Had two buddies helping and we just kept switching out every hour until we were done.
Had no issues with panels warping, but it was a VERY long weekend. Had two buddies helping and we just kept switching out every hour until we were done.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 84
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From: Costa Mesa, Ca
I am not a real big fan of sand blasters. If your doing a frame or other parts of that substance fine, body panels, no way, if you want a nice paint job your just asking for trouble. Of course if you are one of those that paints with a brush you will be fine. You cannot have to big of an air compressor, their is nothing more frustrating than having to wait for air to build up while you are trying to get a job done. I have a 8hp IR compressor, for what I do it is just big enough. It is also mounted in a Tuff Shed about 30 feet from the shop, when I turn it on the only thing that I hear is the radio. Stay away from the small cheap oilless compressors, they are loud and after you burn up the second one you will be thinking, why didn't I buy a good compressor to start with.
This is great info guys, thanks. I plan on using a spray painter. We will be painting two trucks. My 2004 Ford explorer and the 1950 f2. Any thoughts on the type of spray gun?
How would sand blasting cause trouble on panels if spraying, but not brush?
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
Likes: 1
From: Echuca VIC Australia
Sand blasting is a hotly debated topic, some say it damages the surface of the metal and makes it hard to paint. If it is done poorly they are probably right. I personally haven't had a problem with it but I don't blast the flat surfaces. It can cause a lot of heat build up and warp panels very easily. Not really a sport for amatuers.
Spray guns are like most things, you get what you pay for. I started with a cheap gun and thought it was ok. I then bought a Star brand gun and was amazed at the difference. Then I really splashed out and bought a DeVilbiss and it makes the others look like rubbish.
Spray guns are like most things, you get what you pay for. I started with a cheap gun and thought it was ok. I then bought a Star brand gun and was amazed at the difference. Then I really splashed out and bought a DeVilbiss and it makes the others look like rubbish.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
From: Frankfort, Ohio
Still painting with my Binks since 1976. Never a problem and all jobs turn out the same results. Great. Good cleanup after every job and a good gun will last a lifetime. Don't spray primer in the finish paint gun. Get a cheap one to spray primer with. Cheap guns spray primer very well, and if they don't, you're gonna sand it anyway. Some advice on painting is overkill and I won't elaborate on that.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Costa Mesa, Ca
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