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I'm having the same issue, compressor not working. I checked my pressure on the "low side" and it's 100psi!!! How would it get so high on it's own??? I'm in Palm Springs and absolutely melting! If I can't fix it today or tomorrow it's off to a shop on Monday.... ugh
The static pressure will be close to ambient temp . So if it is 100 + deg . underhood , 100 psi . Compressor off . Ck power to compressor , fuses , relay , pressure cycle switches . Good luck !
So tapping the compressor got it to engage for 3-5 seconds. I'm guessing I need to do the shim removal and take gap back to .025 - .-30 does that sound correct?
So tapping the compressor got it to engage for 3-5 seconds. I'm guessing I need to do the shim removal and take gap back to .025 - .-30 does that sound correct?
Yes , regap the compressor . Sometimes all shims must be removed . I would also switch the ac relay with the horn relay . I do that a lot on police cruisers I work on . The relay will heat up and weaken . Just a cheep get by trick I use . Good luck !
Did shim removal, left gap. No change. Compressor only engages for a few seconds and takes a significant "tap" to make it happen.
Just read this after replying to your last post . If not losing power or ground , the clutch magnet is too weak . It is an electromagnet . The clutch assy can be replaced without replacing the compressor . Make sure the air gap is ok and you do not have more shims in there .
I would also switch the ac relay with the horn relay . I do that a lot on police cruisers I work on . The relay will heat up and weaken . Just a cheep get by trick I use .
Nice trick!
One (hopefully) gets "exercised" a LOT more than the other!
Well, I got to look at mine tonight, before I dove in to the air gap(it seemed correct), I took a look at the fuses. I took the one out of the fusebox behind the drivers fuse panel after a little fight. It happened to be pretty tight, so didnt have a loose fuse causin the issue. However I noticed a little bit of buildup on the contacts, so I cleaned it, tried a little black magic spell("d**n thing better work") and stuck it back in. Tried to open the fuse box in the engine compartment, but gave up shortly because I didnt have enough light to see decent. I then gave my mother a treat for mother's day and let her have the chance to fire up the truck I had her turn the switch to AC and voila, cold air Good news, I got my arctic AC back, bad news I'm not sure why cleaning the fuse appeared to solve it. The contacts were't that dirty and I definitely didnt do that good of a job. I guess I'll have to keep an eye on it.
So here is where I'm at... Air gap is good. Clutch still not engaging. Having difficulty getting it to engage even by smacking (I mean "tapping") it. When it does it only works for a few seconds then never again. I checked the AC fuse under steering column (#24 I think, third one from top on far right) it was good. Switched it out for a new one anyways. No luck. Found horn relay there, switched it with other two in same location because I wasn't sure which was the AC relay (meaning I tried it in both the other relay spots)... No luck. So I headed under hood on drivers side for the "AC clutch diode" #36. I pulled it and the one next to it to switch them, a twig seriously fell in there, so I fished it out but lost track of which diode was which. I put them in... 50/50 shot... No luck. I go to switch them and totally dropped one and can't reach it. Off to auto parts to buy another... Hoping this is it. Are there other AC/horn relay locations I'm missing?
No, there are only the two diodes, and they are interchangeable. They will only go in one way.
The location of the relays will be in your Owner's Manual.
If you can get the clutch to engage when tapping it, and the air gap is right, the clutch coil's magnetism is there, but weak. That can only be caused by two things:
1. The coil has some shorted turns, and the coil itself is defective.
2. The current available to it is limited by some resistance in the circuit supplying it, and therefore it's not getting a full 12 volts (thus weak magnetism).
What a day! Auto parts doesn't carry the lost diode and closest Ford dealer is 45 min from here. So I spend just enough time trying to disassemble the air box (diode fell under it) to decide I'm not gonna do that. Figure I'll get it from underneath via the wheel well, decided against that too. So I spend another hour fishing for it... claw grip, magnet light etc... then finally, I get the diode out. So I test the 2 diodes and swap positions, no luck.
Bought feeler gauge at store and air gap is .020, was probably double that with the shim. Clutch won't engage with "encouragement" any more. So we've ruled out the diode, fuse, and relay (given the one under steering column is only one... my owners manual was stolen when my truck was broken into years ago).
So, no power to clutch? New clutch? new compressor? Not sure where the "coils" are located (clutch or compressor) or how to and what to test next...
Mine quit working again today, so I was back at it, but I think I figured it out. The connector that is immediately behind the pulley assembly on the compressor(I dont know what its called) is a bit loose, the retaining tabs are gone. If I hit a big bump I lose AC, hit another one, might get it back, might not, its a crap shoot. First break I get I'm headed into town to get another connector.
wpkeeper, I would check all connections on the AC system, mine all looked fine, but i tried them out of desperation before I dove deeper, and the one had just enough movement. Could be the cause....
WOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Can't tell you how much I LOVE FTE and my darn truck! Especially since the AC is working now... and if it stops, I know the location of the problem! Holy smokes am I a happy camper!
Baatzy, thanks for making me re-check and re-wiggle some wires. I had already checked those connections and all were tight so I didn't think twice about it. So this time I went out with the truck running and wiggled 'em some more, and I found it!
Not the connection you're talking about, but the wires "Y" off... one goes to where you're talking about and the other heads the opposite direction (kinda towards the passenger seat). That's my culprit. Connection is good for now. I'll be replacing mine in the next day of two.
SpringerPop - you sir truly are amazing, thank you for the step by step walk through and one on one attention!!!!