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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 07:56 PM
  #31  
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I don't mind the 289 at all. If its dependable, I'd be happy using it. My only concern is, since the restoration is fairly old, and the old man used various parts from various vehicles to restore it, If I have to replace several large ticket items in the driveline then I may be better off starting with a larger CI engine since it would be easier to make power. But I'm all for doing this resto as cheap as possible, but I'd like to do it right so that it will last as long as the previous one did. Thats why I considered wither the 408 or the PI crown vic. I thought about using a mod-motored mustang but they're more pricey than the crown vic's, at least around here.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 10:34 PM
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The Jag IFS is practically a bolt in on the F1, has excellent geometry, far superior to the MII, disk brakes and power steering, and the Jag OEM springs and sway bar are perfect for the F1. You can also use the IRS with moderate amount of fab. Donors are inexpensive, and despite rumors, Jag parts are available at your local big box parts store and no more expensive than any other make.
 
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Old Apr 28, 2013 | 10:46 PM
  #33  
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I read some members talking about the jag ifs. Don't kill me for not searching thoroughly, but which year make and model jag will work? Will the booster, MC & prop valve work if I go solid rear axle instead IRS. I'm an ok welder, but the jag seems to be easier than the tic kit to install and, more importantly to me, cheaper. And ifs its better then I'm sold.
 
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 06:50 AM
  #34  
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The best xj 6 or 12 years are the 80's up thru 1986. Purchasing and rebuilding the IFS should be under $1000. A decent welder/fabricator can do it in a good weekend or two.
 
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Old May 2, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #35  
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So I took the motor out of the truck and it looks like the block has a hairline crack running alongside the #3 cylinder. I'm taking it to the machine shop this tomorrow and I hope I'm wrong. If the engine is indeed ruined, I think I'm gonna go the 4v 4.6 route out of a lincoln mark viii. Anyone have any tips? I've read alot of info on the mustang forums and it seems to be straight forward.
 
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Old May 2, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for the info on the jag IFS.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:14 PM
  #37  
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So I finally got the truck running again. She still smokes pretty bad but it sounds decent. I'm now thinking of keeping the 289 and going through it. The chrystler front end steers better than I remember. May keep that as well. I've attached a small vid of it running.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:15 PM
  #38  
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http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/19...5e93c.mp4.html
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:17 PM
  #39  
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A running driving truck is better than a pile of even the best parts!
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:20 PM
  #40  
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Does the video link work?
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:22 PM
  #41  
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Yeah. That's definitely true. I may go the significantly cheaper route by rebuilding the engine and tranny and just finishing up the body work.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 10:26 PM
  #42  
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Hey Killa,
That engine sounds pretty good! You even have A/C!

Looking good over there. Keep it running.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 10:58 PM
  #43  
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Thanks Ben. I've been looking at those edlebrock top end kits. Did you get the flat tappet cam or the roller setup? I really think I'm gonna build this 289. Also, where is the factory battery box location on these truck? Mine is on the passenger side in the rear partially inside the inner fender.
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 11:29 PM
  #44  
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Hey Killa,
Our battery box was on the passenger side up high on the firewall.
We used that space when A/C entered the picture - ended up getting one of those smaller marine type batteries & have it behind the seat. We probably could have squeezed the battery back in the engine compartment but it was just easier with it out of the way.

We went with roller style cam but I'm sure you could do either.
Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1
 
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Old May 14, 2013 | 11:30 PM
  #45  
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Hey Killa,
If you do end up going with an Edelbrock kit from Summit be sure to get case hardened push rods - don't go with regular rods.

Ben in Austin
 
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