I have a 2000 F250 with 149,500 mi. Clutch is just starting to slip.I have new replacment kit on the way. Also the new fork and gasket for between trans and transfer case. After reading a bunch of post on here about the rear mains not leaking on this engine. I'm just wondering should I replace it now or wait another 150,000 till next clutch replacement time. I feel it best to replace and not worry. What do you all say? If I remember right, It's just a few bolts holding it one right? No need to drop the oil pan. Thanks for your time.

 

If its not blown leave it be. They very rarely blow. Topside leaks can take on the appearance of a rear main but it almost never is the case on a 7.3.

If anything check oil pan bolts for snugness... dont get them too tight tho. I dont like to go much more than 10ft lbs of torque.

Check your up pipes real good while you have the access... if you have leaks now is the time to address them.

 

I replaced my clutch at 212,000 miles and again at 425,000 miles. I haven't got around to changing my rear main seal yet, but do what makes you feel comfortable.

 

If there is no leak now why run the risk of replacing it and risking a leak? My truck has 287,000 miles on it and the Rear main seal is bone dry! (knock on wood).

 

When you have the clutch down. Drop the flywheel and look at it. Dry-leave it. Wet- replace it. Also look at the starter ring gear for chipped or missing teeth.

 

The flywheel is easily 'wet' because the drain from the engine valley dumps into this area. Stupidest f'ing thing I have ever seen - forgive my ranting... Anyway, after a couple of oil and fuel soaked clutches I solved this problem forever.



The rear seal seldom (never?) fails on these engines. Technically, it requires a special tool to install as well. I wouldn't bother.

I would upgrade the up-pipes or at least replace the stock tubes and donuts if they are leaking now. Any soot on the pipes is an indication they are leaking. They ALL leak eventually.

Cheapest option is new pipes - these should last as long as what ya had - or until you R&R the turbo for some other reason. They often leak after being molested... Not at my computer or I'd give ya a link, but they are called 'crossover pipes' or something - check tousely. (well under $100 shipped)

Next is Dorman bellowed up-pipes. Read the reviews and make your own call on these. They are < $200 shipped.

Then there are Int'l bellowed up-pipes. The 'bellows' design eliminates the donuts which is where the leaks come from. IIRC these are up to $450 plus shipping now.

If you EVER think you'd like to upgrade your turbo, I'd look into a T4 kit from Irate.

You didn't mention what clutch you are gonna use, but I highly recommend Southbend Clutch. Nothing OE or over the counter will come close to the performance. Call them and tell'em what ya use the truck for and they will tell you what will work best. I'm making about 400HP and tow HEAVY with my truck and find the Con OFE to be AWESOME. (my OE clutch went 180k - autozone and LUK clutches I've run were WEAK )

What you do need to do is UPGRADE the pilot bearing. The OE design is junk. I'm running a 6003RS sealed bearing, but some machine the flywheel to accept the larger 6.0 bearing. The kevlar bushing is better than OE, but it still wears out - it just doesn't fail catastrophically and tear up the input shaft. I recommend fixing the problem with a better bearing!!

 

Thanks for all the replys.

skyskijason, I didn't see your reply in time to do the fix with the down tube. Nice touch. I did install new seal as old one was leaking and all new LUK flywheel clutch replacment set.