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How bad did I screw up? Synth to dinosaur oil...

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  #16  
Old 04-24-2013, 01:28 PM
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Your oil loss may b cdr...cyn is better in all ways ...just be carefull to use the corect wt and additive package for your engine type..moble 1 0-40 is a thick oil that stays thick,,all the time,,it says 0wt because it meets the standard...not because it is thin...moble 1 5-30 is a thin oil that stays thin...look into european oil standards....moble 1 15-40 turbo diesel oil is for deisel engines other moble 1 wts meet the standards but don't have the correct additive package for diesels...I deliver the stuff to Ford,Chev Toyota,BMW ect, trucking companys, performance shops,,in the seattle area,, they all say moble 1..or redline,,truck shops ballance cost over protection,,most use delvac 15 -40, and one of many cyn additives.. it just costs money..
 
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Old 04-25-2013, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
their sales technique, and the fact they will not submit their oils for rating. their trust what we tell you about it, we know what we sell is good just don't cut it for me.

also, when i have a "salesman" telling me that their oil is the best thing since buttered bread and if i don't use it my engine will not last. well, i only use valvoline all fleet 15-40 in my vehicles. this same amsoil salesman has never gotten more than 5 years and 100,000 miles out of a vehicle before blowing them up.
my 88 now has over 496,000 miles on it and is still in excellent condition.
Your just afraid of the boogie man
Your engine has 496,000 miles on it great!
Could you share your MPG and your oil consumption rate?
How about how many oil changes do you do a year?

Do you buy new vehicles and keep them for decades?

When you have to service a vehicle do you actually do it solo?

Or do you trust someone else to do it?

Is every AMSOIL guy a dishonest crook trying to steal your
money? Sure did throw all the AMSOIL guys right under the bus.

Just wondering how you will reply


Javier
 
  #18  
Old 04-25-2013, 04:25 PM
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i feel amsoil the company is shady.
and every single one of the "dealers" i have come across are pushy arrogant snobs that feel every other oil is pure garbage and will destroy an engine, and their oil is gold plated and never has to be changed.
i know of 4 "dealers" that now will not touch the stuff after having catostrophic engine failures due to amsoil products, and have switched to other oils and have had no problems with hundreds of thousands of miles on those engines.


the truck was bought new with 4 miles on it.
i have done what little work to it it has needed. no one else touches any of my vehicles.
and i buy vehicles to last forever, and keep them until i no longer need them.
my 78 F-350 has around 210,000 miles on it.
the 79 F-350 has 189,000 miles on the 351M and still runs good.
the 79 F-250 has around the same miles on it.
the 88 has a little over 496,000.
the 2002 diesel has 187,000 on it,
and the 2004 5.4 truck has 35,000 on it.
there are also 5 cars in the fleet.

parts put on the 88
1 alternator, 3 vacuum pumps, 2 starters, 2 injector pumps, 2 sets of injectors, 2 sets of glow plugs.
1 mechanical fuel pump, and when that one died i put an electric one on.
1 exhaust system.
trans swap from 5 speed to C-6 at 275,000 miles. transfer case at 275,000 miles also.
oil change every 5,000 miles. oil consumption is minor, less than 1 quart between changes. fuel filter every 10,000 miles.
mpg was around 20 with the 5 speed, dropped to 16-17 with the C-6, and now dropped to 12-14 with the garbage fuel they are selling.
 
  #19  
Old 04-25-2013, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
i feel amsoil the company is shady.
and every single one of the "dealers" i have come across are pushy arrogant snobs that feel every other oil is pure garbage and will destroy an engine, and their oil is gold plated and never has to be changed.
i know of 4 "dealers" that now will not touch the stuff after having catostrophic engine failures due to amsoil products, and have switched to other oils and have had no problems with hundreds of thousands of miles on those engines.


the truck was bought new with 4 miles on it.
i have done what little work to it it has needed. no one else touches any of my vehicles.
and i buy vehicles to last forever, and keep them until i no longer need them.
my 78 F-350 has around 210,000 miles on it.
the79 F-350 has 189,000 miles on the 351M and still runs good.
the 79 F-250 has around the same miles on it.
the 88 has a little over 496,000.
the 2002 diesel has 187,000 on it,
and the 2004 5.4 truck has 35,000 on it.
there are also 5 cars in the fleet.

1 alternator, 3 vacuum pumps, 2 starters, 2 injector pumps, 2 sets of injectors, 2 sets of glow plugs.
1 mechanical fuel pump, and when that one died i put an electric one on.
trans swap from 5 speed to C-6 at 275,000 miles. transfer case at 275,000 miles also.
oil change every 5,000 miles. oil consumption is minor, less than 1 quart between changes. fuel filter every 10,000 miles.
mpg was around 20 with the 5 speed, dropped to 16-17 with the C-6, and now dropped to 12-14 with the garbage fuel they are selling.
Well I am sure you have not seen what actually killed all those engines you speak of.

Let me ask you, if you decided to use a brand of oil in your 486,000 mile engine and it goes 3,000 miles and blows up, is it the fault of the new oil or the previous oil?

Shady Company because people are proud of a product?

Well you could also be considered the same way for being proud of your fleet of vehicles, NO?

You know you really have no opinion on the subject cause you really have no data to speak of.

I have been building drivetrains over 25 years So I had to learn change the oil trick early on.
During that time I was upset that even with regular changes I still would have failures that nobody could pinpoint.

So today I am what they call a RCFA specialist Root Cause Failure Analysis.

I get to the root cause of failures. No1 issue Contamination.

I am sure all the related engine failures of the guys you mention had nothing to do with lubricant.

They are to proud to admit they had faulty equiptment before they tried to fix it with a majic oil.

You know people are really not that hard to read...



Javier
 
  #20  
Old 04-25-2013, 04:54 PM
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when i ask an amsoil dealer what the specifications are on their oil and get told "oh, we don' bother with those silly ratings", that is enough of a reason for me to never ever ever use that product in anything.
and those 4 engines that blew up after getting amsoil products put in them when brand new?

one spun 3 bearings at 30,000 miles, another one had a turbo fail because the oil coked up in it, loosing oil pressure and then the engine lost oil pressure destroying it.
the other two threw rods out the oil pans. all 4 blew up with less than 75,000 miles on them.
the engines that replaced them got other oils in them and all went over 200,000 miles before they sold the trucks.
 
  #21  
Old 04-25-2013, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
when i ask an amsoil dealer what the specifications are on their oil and get told "oh, we don' bother with those silly ratings", that is enough of a reason for me to never ever ever use that product in anything.
and those 4 engines that blew up after getting amsoil products put in them when brand new?

one spun 3 bearings at 30,000 miles, another one had a turbo fail because the oil coked up in it, loosing oil pressure and then the engine lost oil pressure destroying it.
the other two threw rods out the oil pans. all 4 blew up with less than 75,000 miles on them.
the engines that replaced them got other oils in them and all went over 200,000 miles before they sold the trucks.

Cool information I can relate to!

Ok spun bearings are not from oil brand at all actually.
3 ways to spin a bearing
1) run low on oil, really low.
2) big end of rod not round.
3) Crank Journal not round
I would say human error on that engine.

Turbo failure? Brand new turbo was used? AMSOIL will not COKE up even at 500F
Was this a 6.0? 6.4 twin turbo?

Throwing a rod out the oil pan is a metalurgy issue non oil related at all actually.

Let me show you a engine that ran 6 years on one oil change using AMSOIL
I never changed the oil just topped it off and went racing.

I eventually broke 3 mains in the block racing it, I left the timing to high.

I still drove it home 8 miles with no oil pressure.







The engine had 40,000 miles all racing miles

Alot of times engines fail and oil had nothing to do with it.


Take a little time to look a little closer before you make a decision
on something.


Javier
 
  #22  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:35 PM
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there as nothing wrong with the crank or rods that were seen, but the oil did fail the analysis report. i dont remember exactly what for, because it was a good 20 years ago. but i do know it was not a pretty report.
the turbo failure was on a 7.3
and the other two that threw rods were from loss of oil pressure.
all four of these engines had amsoil put in them with less than 10 miles on them.



anyway, i will never use it. i feel it is a waste of money, and like i said, i do not like the companies marketing strategy.
 
  #23  
Old 04-25-2013, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
there as nothing wrong with the crank or rods that were seen, but the oil did fail the analysis report. i dont remember exactly what for, because it was a good 20 years ago. but i do know it was not a pretty report.
the turbo failure was on a 7.3
and the other two that threw rods were from loss of oil pressure.
all four of these engines had amsoil put in them with less than 10 miles on them.



anyway, i will never use it. i feel it is a waste of money, and like i said, i do not like the companies marketing strategy.
Well I am not trying to convince you of anything, Just know that the devil is in the details.

I work for a machine shop that builds all types but mainly racing engines.
Let me tell you we assemble engines and ship them out, and when they come back the owner all pissed cause it broke and its our fault, it is my job to find the source, Always the same BS un cleaned oil coolers, condoms in the oil pickup, dog hair, loose oil pumps, weong spark plugs, over tightened head bolts, even after we assembled it, dirty radiators, used water pumps with no vanes rusted away!, just a host of stupidity that we have to show the guy in his face.

Yea AMSOIL is unique company, I dont mind the marketing, they are still in buisness and have never been sued, look it up on the FTC.GOV website.

Cant say that for alot of other conventional oil companies.

Even my machinest uses AMSOIL in every vehicle he owns.

I like the stuff causer I cant kill the oil with all the testing I have done.

I have plenty data to show.

Well good luck to you and have a beer for me on your next oil change.

Javier
 
  #24  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:14 PM
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so this is a good read! i dont want to argue because i dont really know but heres my .02. i have a strong backround in motorcross. racing dunes trail and desert racing. my buddies and i all ride 450's of some sort and we are at this point very proficient in rebuilding the suckers. one of my friends started using amsoil at the beginning of a season and his motor was the first to go that season when in the past his was last. im a fairly big person to ride competitively im 6.2 and 220lbs so needless to say usually my motor was the first to go. my friend is like 5.10 and probably 170lbs so there is a difference. now i will say that his bike with the same mods felt a little more peppy than previous. so im not denying that amsoil can free up some adn make a motor a little more happy with revs but i am shaky on its ability to protect for long periods of time. i think that there are better products out there. and these were all aluminum and magnesium engines, so could be different in iron motors. like i said i really dont know but i will say that anyone claiming 35k oci is smoking something good
 
  #25  
Old 04-25-2013, 08:46 PM
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Eh. I skip all the drama and just buy Rotella 15W-40 in 2.5-gallon jugs. Works out to about $11 a gallon at Wal-Mart.
 
  #26  
Old 04-25-2013, 09:06 PM
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you boys are starting to worry me now about the fresh Amsoil i just poured in.
mobil doesn't make a 30 weight diesel oil dangit.what's up with that? only our old school idi's can run 30w in ambient temps up to 90 degrees or what? hard to believe.i don't want to go back to a running a dino lube just to get into a 30 weight oil man.
 
  #27  
Old 04-25-2013, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
mobil doesn't make a 30 weight diesel oil dangit.what's up with that? only our old school idi's can run 30w in ambient temps up to 90 degrees or what? hard to believe.i don't want to go back to a running a dino lube just to get into a 30 weight oil man.
This is what Mobil recommends for our trucks. What's wrong with it?
 
  #28  
Old 04-25-2013, 09:57 PM
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nothing.iv been running it for a while now.it's just that for best performance and economy there's no need to run a thicker oil than needed.navistar says 30w is ok up to temps of 90 degrees, so there's no need to run 40w here in Maine except for July and August.
ever try 30w in yours? if not try it.she loves it.
 
  #29  
Old 04-25-2013, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by FORDF250HDXLT
nothing.iv been running it for a while now.it's just that for best performance and economy there's no need to run a thicker oil than needed.navistar says 30w is ok up to temps of 90 degrees, so there's no need to run 40w here in Maine except for July and August.
ever try 30w in yours? if not try it.she loves it.
I might when it gets cold again, but that won't be until October ... until then I think a thicker oil is the way to go, since I'm likely to see 100+ degree temperatures on a daily basis from July through early September.
 
  #30  
Old 04-26-2013, 11:58 AM
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I run AMSOIL in every thing that burns fuel.
I have a KTM 125SX dirt bike that uses 100:1 pre mix by AMSOIL
Yea I killed it twice in the last 6 years but it wasnt the oil and the same
cylinder has not needed any boring, cleaned up twice after a high rpm lockup.
Always check and clean your air filters on 2smokes if they clog the engine will get hot kwick and sieze the cylinder.
I didn't blame the oil, it was MY FAULT not anything else.
Still runs great today using 100:1 mix

I also run AMSOIL Diesel oil 30 weight with no problems in my IDI
yea I killed that engine twice, was it the oil? well the easy way to look
at it is just blurt out a sentance with no info whatsoever?
Most people do.
I am the sole mechanic so I always find the source of failure since
I am able to remove the emotional aspect of a failure.
I fix drivetrains I am no stinking shrink!
When something screws up you need to source the issue or it will
repeat.
I found that the lower radiator hose on my IDI was sucking closed
at road speed, about 80 mph this would happen and twice I siezed a piston in the right rear of the block.
Each time I was just cruising down the xpress way and then a slight
braking was noticed as well as the coolant temp gauge was pegged.

Blame the oil? Uh stupid idea

I had to fix it. So it did and she runs great now after adding an intercooler for one, and stuffing a flexible steel exhaust pipe in the lower radiator hose.

So far so good! I am about 8000 miles into this engine now and it runs reliably again.

I chose 30 weight oil simply because it flows sooner to engine parts when cold than 40 weight.

Since my engine is not a loosy goosy worn out engine I am certain 30 weight wont hurt it one bit.

I have already tested this ACD AMSOIL blend and it holds the heat excellent.
I have a bit lower psi than most others when the engine is not getting worked hard, but tach it up while it is hot and 40psi is available.

I do not plan on changing this batch of oil for a very long time.
My first oil analysis is just a few weeks away, so stay tuned!



Javier
 


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