Need help to select E-150 replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Dec 2004
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Oh I forgot what I consider a major failing in the newer E series -- they lack dual fuel tanks.
Both my E-150 and F-250 have dual tanks (43Gal and 38Gal total). Is not just the extra fuel it's the redundancy -- dual fuel pumps. And I switch at the half full so I know when I start my last half I must fill up. Saved my bacon many times in the back country.
Does anyone know if and when they started putting cabin air filters in the E series?
Both my E-150 and F-250 have dual tanks (43Gal and 38Gal total). Is not just the extra fuel it's the redundancy -- dual fuel pumps. And I switch at the half full so I know when I start my last half I must fill up. Saved my bacon many times in the back country.
Does anyone know if and when they started putting cabin air filters in the E series?
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,040
Likes: 137
From: Maryville
My 99 E-350 hold 37 gallons, you don't want more than that with the price of high test fuel, I have no intention of removing all my mods and tune to run 87 octane, as the difference is not that much, but $100 to fill it half way!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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For years & years FORD has published Econoline's fuel tank capacity specification at 35 gallons.
Even w/your "hold 37 gallons" at the common price for regular in upstate NY now at $3.529 "to fill it half way" would only amount to $65.29 - but most are rarely ever able "to fill" w/even 30 gallons.
Many sources claim that, for the most part, compression ratio dictates what octane a given engine should use ideally. While some engine management software tweaks & external "mods" may help squeeze a little more giddyup out "of high test fuel" it would seem that unless pistons, crank & head are swapped to change compression ratio "the difference is not that much". The general consensus is that burning "high test" in motors designed for regular is usually a waste of money.
Many sources claim that, for the most part, compression ratio dictates what octane a given engine should use ideally. While some engine management software tweaks & external "mods" may help squeeze a little more giddyup out "of high test fuel" it would seem that unless pistons, crank & head are swapped to change compression ratio "the difference is not that much". The general consensus is that burning "high test" in motors designed for regular is usually a waste of money.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,255
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
All the newer E-Vans can greatly benefit from adding heavier sway bars up front, installing one on the rear even the factory smaller one is a huge advantage. As I've said the rear bar addition alone makes a huge difference. Along with Bilstein shocks and Michelin tires the ride I have suits me perfectly.
Mind you "ride" is a very subjective term, my preference being maximum road control feel, not so comfortable it feels sloppy and floating down the highway. The weight of your van as a daily driver affects this quite a bit so what's harsh when completely empty will seem to smooth out the more weight is added. For me were the front coils significantly different between the E250's and E350's I'd upgrade to the latter, adding a leaf or so to the rears as well.
If your van will see mixed use but more as cargo only I'd add a heavy plywood floor, double layer of radiant barrier insulation on roof and side walls along with a dividing curtain between front/rear areas. These greatly reduce the tin can effect a bare van gives us. These mods retain all the cargo space and give a better "ride" too.
To my knowledge E-Vans were never outfitted with cabin filters.
Mind you "ride" is a very subjective term, my preference being maximum road control feel, not so comfortable it feels sloppy and floating down the highway. The weight of your van as a daily driver affects this quite a bit so what's harsh when completely empty will seem to smooth out the more weight is added. For me were the front coils significantly different between the E250's and E350's I'd upgrade to the latter, adding a leaf or so to the rears as well.
If your van will see mixed use but more as cargo only I'd add a heavy plywood floor, double layer of radiant barrier insulation on roof and side walls along with a dividing curtain between front/rear areas. These greatly reduce the tin can effect a bare van gives us. These mods retain all the cargo space and give a better "ride" too.
To my knowledge E-Vans were never outfitted with cabin filters.
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Joined: Dec 2004
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Thanks JWA on the cabin filters -- too bad.
Yea the lack stability I felt in my '76 was shocking -- I put the big sway bars within a couple of months.
What I don't want is the rear end bouncing all over the place when it is empty. The solution to this on my F-250 was D range tires at minimum pressure, a heavy topper and Firestone air springs for when I loaded it down.
Since mine came with the factory insulation and wall panels the new van will be a shock at first -- I expect a lot of noise. I am busy building our house so I hope I can put up with it for a while.
Yea the lack stability I felt in my '76 was shocking -- I put the big sway bars within a couple of months.
What I don't want is the rear end bouncing all over the place when it is empty. The solution to this on my F-250 was D range tires at minimum pressure, a heavy topper and Firestone air springs for when I loaded it down.
Since mine came with the factory insulation and wall panels the new van will be a shock at first -- I expect a lot of noise. I am busy building our house so I hope I can put up with it for a while.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,040
Likes: 137
From: Maryville
I wanted D tires, I found that those bad boys cost more than the E that is required. Yeah, when empty, it's like an empty beer can, or sitting in one of those metal storage building on a windy day. LoL
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AmericanPie
1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis
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Nov 22, 2004 01:03 PM
