Braking Issue
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Southern Cal Desert
Braking Issue
Ok I need help with this one. Left to go to work and the brakes started acting up. The pedal would not return all the way up after depressing, the truck would skid to a stop, and the brakes lights stay on. I parked the truck at work and the brake lights stay on, so I disconnected the battery so I could get home at the end of the day. I drove it home with my left foot underneath the pedal holding it up? Any guesses? I have had the master cylinder replaced two months ago, and there are no visible leaks. 
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
I am going with Power Brakes and just the Rears are actually skidding. One of the springs on the inside of the new master cylinder broke and ruptured it's cup for the front brakes and won't help push the pedal back up.. How close am I? LOL!
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Senior User
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From: Southern Cal Desert
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Southern Cal Desert
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Phoenix, Az.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
On a more serious note, If this or the original master cylinder leaks brake fluid on the inside of the brake booster change it also. The rubber diaphragm in the booster does not like brake fluid. The fluid will eat up the rubber and your booster will go out. Unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and pull it gently forward. Feel the back of the Master for brake fluid leak. You don't have to loosen the brake lines to do this. If I'm correct again and there's fluid there, see if your Master cylinder supplier will warranty out a master/booster combo unit. If they will, they will ask if you have a standard or "adjustable" booster. The difference being in the rod where the booster hooks up to the brake pedal. Look under your dash at that rod. If it's one piece it is a standard booster. If you see a round rod,lock nut, and the eyelet rod connecting up to the pedal it is an adjustable style. If you get the adjustable style you will have to re-use your existing eyelet rod.
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,255
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From: Phoenix, Az.
A few ways.
1. If the pedal goes to the floor and there is no air or leaks in the system (including wheel cylinders,metal lines,rubber hoses,or disc brake calipers if equiped) then the master cyinder is by-passing internally. And therefore bad.
2. If you unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and gently pull it forward feel the back side of it. If you feel brake fluid there it is bad. You don't have to loosen the brake lines to do this.
1. If the pedal goes to the floor and there is no air or leaks in the system (including wheel cylinders,metal lines,rubber hoses,or disc brake calipers if equiped) then the master cyinder is by-passing internally. And therefore bad.
2. If you unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and gently pull it forward feel the back side of it. If you feel brake fluid there it is bad. You don't have to loosen the brake lines to do this.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: Las Vegas, NV
a couple of things to look for to see if booster is going out:
hissings sound when pressing the break.
hard pedal like the vacuum is disconnected from booster.
fluid leaking into booster will eat the internals prompting need to replace.
if leak into booster is bad enough then it will also be leaking into the cab where the brake rod passes through firewall.
hissings sound when pressing the break.
hard pedal like the vacuum is disconnected from booster.
fluid leaking into booster will eat the internals prompting need to replace.
if leak into booster is bad enough then it will also be leaking into the cab where the brake rod passes through firewall.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Southern Cal Desert
a couple of things to look for to see if booster is going out:
hissings sound when pressing the break.
hard pedal like the vacuum is disconnected from booster.
fluid leaking into booster will eat the internals prompting need to replace.
if leak into booster is bad enough then it will also be leaking into the cab where the brake rod passes through firewall.
hissings sound when pressing the break.
hard pedal like the vacuum is disconnected from booster.
fluid leaking into booster will eat the internals prompting need to replace.
if leak into booster is bad enough then it will also be leaking into the cab where the brake rod passes through firewall.
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2013
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Thanks guys, good info. My 68 f250 CS was leaking fluid out the back. Replaced MC. Pedal feels good, but hissing sound is present. If booster is leaking does it effect engine performance? SimilAr to a vacuum leak? Seems like it is causing rough idle and hesitation at take off. Or do I possibly have a separate vac leak prob?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,300
Likes: 18
From: Las Vegas, NV
If booster is leaking does it effect engine performance? SimilAr to a vacuum leak?
Depending on how the booster is leaking it could affect performance.
Try capping the vacuum line going to the booster and see how performance changes.
Be careful as this will make the brake pedal hard to push.
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