1950 F2 Rebuild Chronicle
#16
Wrote that down Dan. It looks like it had work done? What makes you think that? It all looks old to me . As far as the rear end, what should I look for and do? Would I need to swap out the rear end if im looking for freeway speeds, or can I acheive that with other modifications without swapping it out? Not looking to gain a whole lot of speed, maybe just reach a top of 55 mph?
#17
#18
I just went through the front end on my F1, so I can give you a ballpark idea of what was involved.
Jack up the front axle off the ground and try to move the tires by pushing in and out on the top and bottom of the tire. If there is movement in the kingpins, it will be evident (one of mine had about 3/4" of movement - scary).
I replaced:
kingpins and bushings ($50 for parts, $40 to have the new bushings pressed in and honed);
Shackle and spring bushings $50;
Speedway disc brake conversion $280 shipped;
New master cylinder and booster (got a deal from a friend for $50);
Brake lines and residual pressure valves $60;
I am doing a Toyota power steering conversion (which I am into for around $200, so I can't tell you about the stock box rebuild cost);
I have to order a new tie rod ($55 from Speedway) still (recommended upgrade from what I have read).
I will give you an idea at least.
Let us know what you decide to do - nice looking truck BTW.
Jack up the front axle off the ground and try to move the tires by pushing in and out on the top and bottom of the tire. If there is movement in the kingpins, it will be evident (one of mine had about 3/4" of movement - scary).
I replaced:
kingpins and bushings ($50 for parts, $40 to have the new bushings pressed in and honed);
Shackle and spring bushings $50;
Speedway disc brake conversion $280 shipped;
New master cylinder and booster (got a deal from a friend for $50);
Brake lines and residual pressure valves $60;
I am doing a Toyota power steering conversion (which I am into for around $200, so I can't tell you about the stock box rebuild cost);
I have to order a new tie rod ($55 from Speedway) still (recommended upgrade from what I have read).
I will give you an idea at least.
Let us know what you decide to do - nice looking truck BTW.
#19
That is a very nice looking truck. Thanks for posting your build. I am still at least a year away from starting on my F3 and will be watching closely. People on this forum are very helpful from what I've seen. My plans for the F3 are pretty much the same as yours- as stock as possible , but still usable. Watching the rest of you helps me with being patient but also gets me excited to start mine. Thanks again for sharing.
#20
I just looked through my receipts and even looked in the box that the brake parts came in. No luck. But I did buy it on E-Bay from from a guy who specializes in brake conversions. Just went through my transaction history and couldn't find anything that far back. I guess it was two years ago that I bought it and I'm screwed if it is defective or something . The kit is comprised of a zinc coated bracket, a generic booster and a standard two-reservoir master cylinder. Also came with a few fittings and gasket. Since I'm using a drum system it did not come with a proportioning valve, but they are available from the same folks that sell these conversion kits. I think I paid about $200 or so for everything. It is the bracket that you can't find independently, so it makes sense to find someone with the kit. I planned to install it on the frame last year but ran out of warm weather. I'll be putting it on next month, and will have fingers crossed that it will be OK. I checked it for clearance already so I should be in good shape.
Hope this helps.
Tom
#22
dmack and pineconeford, Thanks for the info. Though I did check speedway for their rotor breaks, and they don't make brakes for anything larger than 1 tons. Anyone know of any place that sells disc brakes for f2's? so far my search has been unfruitful.
Heres a few photos from when I took apart the engine a few months back.
This is the engine in the sonic tank.
Heres a few photos from when I took apart the engine a few months back.
This is the engine in the sonic tank.
#23
F2 = 3/4 ton
I'm no expert on these brake conversions, my trucks are bigger and stock, but I think F1 and F2 have the same spindles. The F1 disk brake kits may work for you but you will end up with a five lug bolt pattern. This may be good if you want to change your rear axle for better highway gearing, depending on what axle you choose you can match the bolt pattern.
Here is one source for eight lug disk brakes, Ford F2 & F3.
The F2 master cylinder has a slightly larger bolt pattern than the F1 so the under floor dual cylinder kits/adapters may require minor modification.
#24
#26
#27
Replace every brake line and rubber hoses, all wheel cylinders and master cylinder. Replace the brake switch while you are into the brake system. Hidden rust or rot in a brake component can be a killer.
Suspension rebuild should include all spring shackle bolts and bushing replacement, front and rear. Tie rod ends, king pins, drag link and steering box should all be evaluated, replaced or rebuilt as required. Shocks replaced. Spring center bolts should be check and replaced if bent or sheared. At a couple bucks a piece, just replace them. Good idea to disassemble and clean springs. Do this and install some good radial tires and these old trucks will drive pretty darn good.
Suspension rebuild should include all spring shackle bolts and bushing replacement, front and rear. Tie rod ends, king pins, drag link and steering box should all be evaluated, replaced or rebuilt as required. Shocks replaced. Spring center bolts should be check and replaced if bent or sheared. At a couple bucks a piece, just replace them. Good idea to disassemble and clean springs. Do this and install some good radial tires and these old trucks will drive pretty darn good.
#28
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Saskatoon SK Canada
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I wonder why aftermarket companies continue to build brake kits around those old chevy calipers? Even Chevrolet hasn't used that style on a half ton since 1987.
This is the current design for nearly every current vehicle. It has superior brake pad retention and pad wear to those old calipers. Even making mounting brackets would be simpler as you just need to two holes drilled in a plate for the caliper to mount.
This is the current design for nearly every current vehicle. It has superior brake pad retention and pad wear to those old calipers. Even making mounting brackets would be simpler as you just need to two holes drilled in a plate for the caliper to mount.
#29
#30
From my experience if a truck sits very long the shocks will go bad. I had some brand new ones sitting in the trunk of my galaxy for about 16 years, forgot they were there, when I went to put them on they were trash and on that old truck you will want good shocks! If your not sure you could always pull them off and see if they extend after you compress them. If you need a floor pan there are several sellers on ebay and you can check macs truck parts for goodies as well I'm sure there are other places if you search and you may already have it all lined out. Good luck, looks pretty good to me!