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As time goes on you find out more and more stuff on these trucks that just isnt up to par. So, you fix them, yet the frustration comes when the fix isnt actually fixed and comes back.
I posted awhile back about my breaks when i lost all power to them.
Took it to the shop and fixed them worked fine for about 6 months.
Then we replaced the master cylinder, and again worked great for 6 months.
But recently the pressure on my brakes has become weak. So we bled them and back them about 4 separate times.
But still no matter what we do there is no change.
I have drum brakes on all 4 wheels. Now when backing my brakes and slamming on it only the rear drivers side tire will slide, as if its trying to really brake.
So, now im stuck and am unsure about what i can do.
(Keep in mind i do have 37" Military OZ tires . Could this be a factor)
I have found that on these old trucks, taking the time and $$ and doing it really right matters. The 37s don't help your cause, but there are a few things you can do. First, I would recommend an F350 booster and master cylinder. Also, upgrade your soft lines to braided stainless steel. These 2 things seem to make a real difference over a stock rebuild. Sounds like the other stuff is already taken care of.
As time goes on you find out more and more stuff on these trucks that just isnt up to par. So, you fix them, yet the frustration comes when the fix isnt actually fixed and comes back.
I posted awhile back about my breaks when i lost all power to them.
Took it to the shop and fixed them worked fine for about 6 months.
Then we replaced the master cylinder, and again worked great for 6 months.
But recently the pressure on my brakes has become weak. So we bled them and back them about 4 separate times.
But still no matter what we do there is no change.
I have drum brakes on all 4 wheels. Now when backing my brakes and slamming on it only the rear drivers side tire will slide, as if its trying to really brake.
So, now im stuck and am unsure about what i can do.
(Keep in mind i do have 37" Military OZ tires . Could this be a factor)
Thanks for the help. I did not even know that a proportioning valve existed.
That thread you linked to was great helped out a lot to understand it.
ted--- have you switched over to a 350 master and booster. will another 75 F350 master drop right in. Thanks again
Ted--- have you switched over to a 350 master and booster. will another 75 F350 master drop right in. Thanks again
Year for year, you can swap them. There are subtle differences in the mounting brackets/pedals/push rods so unless you get everything from the junkyard, the best bet is to just buy reman from a parts place for you exact year. I just got a close out MC from Rockauto for $16. Normally the dual diaphragm booster is the pricy part.
Sounds like the self-adjusters aren't adjusting. Mine seem to work okay on both my Dentsides, but I still get under them from time to time and manually adjust them. Over time they will allow a bit of slack to build up. Also, when I have my brakes apart, I put anti-seize on the threads of the self-adjusters.
Ditto : check wheel cylinders. Ya got one wheel trying to stop but not the other three. Had similar problem with rear brakes on my 79. right side kinda worked, not so much on the left. left one had pistons siezed in the cylinder. right one had front piston siezed, rear one worked (crazy).
cheers