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Hey guys and gals ive got an 2013 f350 dully question is when i plug in my trailer wires lights all work brakes work but i dont have 12v power to turn on lights inside of trailer on my old chevy you had to hook up power wire by fuse box to get 12v to trailer is it the same with ford or am i just missing something,thanks in advance for any anawers
My last 2 trips hauling my 30' toy hauler I kept getting the 'trailer disconnected' and then 'trailer connected' display on my info message screen. My lights were working just fine but I had no trailer brakes. I replaced my trailer plug and the truck plug with Hopkins brand plugs and have not had an issue yet. The Hopkins are all heavy duty metal plugs.
If you want constant power you need to remove the relay under the hood and put a jumper wire in. There are threads on here that give the specifics if you can find them.
I believe pin 4 of your 7 pin plug has 12v power to it but only with the key on.
yep it does but i dont want to leave the key on all night at the race track as the 12v runs the tstat for my roof top ac unit thanks for answer to the 4 pin as the inside lights work that way
If you want constant power you need to remove the relay under the hood and put a jumper wire in. There are threads on here that give the specifics if you can find them.
ok so you are saying i need a jumper wire inside of fuse box at a relay does anyone know which relay and where to jumper across if i recall my 08 f350 all i has to do was change a setting on my approche lighting settings but i cant find that in the book anywhere on my new one anyways thanks for the info ill try to find the thread on the jumper wire
cant find anything in the threads on 12v constent power to trailer for inside lights for 2011-2013 f350 any ideas or more info would be great and thanks for the answers already posted
Well I don't do the exact answer but I would look in the manual or even on the cover to the fuse and relay panel that is under the hood. You will see a relay that says something like trailer battery charge relay or something to that effect. Then with an ohm meter you should be able to find out where to place the jumper to have constant power to the trailer plug.
Anyway Welcome to FTE. I gotta run right now but if I get a chance later I will see if I can find the exact pin out for you.
yep it does but i dont want to leave the key on all night at the race track as the 12v runs the tstat for my roof top ac unit thanks for answer to the 4 pin as the inside lights work that way
Sounds like you should just add a battery to your trailer and leave the truck alone. That way if you forget and leave the lights on in the trailer you won't run the battery down on your truck.
If your trailer brakes work you're getting 12v from the truck.
If your 12v lights in the trailer don't work the problem is in the trailer between the trailer battery and the lights.
Rob
He's not talking about the brakes not working. Every RV connector has a 12v power supply from the truck to trailer. Most use it for the breakaway battery trickle charger. We're not all talking about rv trailers here and some cargo trailers don't have enough battery to power lights.
I have my redneck camper wired so that the camper lights can be run from the 12V power supply. I only use them when they are needed and them shut them off, so as not to run the truck down.
My old dodge had a contstant 12v at the rv connector, and hearing that my new 13 won't, unless the key is on is disappointing. I'm going to have to figure a way around it also, not putting a big battery on the trailer.
Well your center pin is usually for back up lights. You can always diconnect that From contoller and tie in hot lead there. Then you will have 12 volts back to pin in connector.
IMHO, and this depends on you're situation, but you might really be better off going a different way....
Install a small power inverter under the hood or under dash etc, like 75 watts, a small one.
Then, track down some 120VAC LED / fluorescent lighting.
Rig up a power wire extension wire for the camper.
12v loses a lot of power over the wires.
Even though a 120v inverter won't be 100% effecient, the losses in the wire will be reduced, and 120v is useful for a lot more than just 2 dome lights.
M camper has all CFL lights, and I've run it off battery power lots of times, even with the TV and stereo going.
The real trick is that you need the power inverter close to the battery, and or with thick cable. 1 amp at 120 V you need at least 10 amp at 12 v, so you need really thick 12v wires to be efficient.
My camper has 4 12 v 100ah batteries in it, and the inverter is 3 ft away, with thick battery cable.
My old dodge had a contstant 12v at the rv connector, and hearing that my new 13 won't, unless the key is on is disappointing. I'm going to have to figure a way around it also, not putting a big battery on the trailer.
On the 2012 model it is relay 102, I didn't get a chance to look at mine but my guess is that it is a 4 pin relay so it shouldn't be hard to figure out how to bypass. Make a little jumper to go from the hot pin to the pin that goes to the trailer plug. It will still be protected by a 30 amp fuse.
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