So I have moved to a new home and have a nice concrete floor garage and aggregate driveway. Now I care that my truck has drips. They seem to be worse but I may just be noticing it more. I have tightened all my return lines and I have an inline electric fuel pump underneath before the mechanical one. The mechanical one is spitting fuel out its dribble hole. So do I replace the mechanical or bypass it???
Any other ideas or options?
Thanks

 

You have the Harley Davidson Edition IDI!


If your electric pump is on all the time (not just a prime pump) then you should bypass the mechanical.

 

Hey Jr4jc, did you get your glow plug problem fixed? Congrats on the garage!

 

you can do it either way. but if you have the e-pump wired to run all the time, you'll want to bypass the mechanical. you also have the option of having the electric run only as a momentary with it set up just how it is. i have mine set up momentary like that

 

If the mechanical pump is leaking out it's vent hole, means the rubber diaphragm inside is bad, and fuel can be getting into the crankcase as well....

That's really bad on bearings if that's the case.


And like others have said, you don't wanna run 2 pumps. Run one or the other, or use the electric one as a momentary primer.

 

Ok I'll bypass mechanical, any tips on doing it?
Or just simply fuel line from e pump to filter?
Glow plugs did not come on two days ago in messing with it
I found that by wiggling the large wires/plug on passenger side wheel well they came back on. Don't see anything obviously loose. So my plan for now is leave it alone and if glow plugs don't come on, wiggle that some more. It has only happened 3 times total in about a year.

 

I think I would like to replace the mechanical and use electric to prime. But have to much going on right now, where will I be able to get mechanical and how much, Oreilly's ?? And then put electrical on a toggle switch??

 

Leave old mechanical pump In place, if I bypass??

 

you can leave it on and bypass it, or remove it and put a big block chevy fuel pump block off plate over the hole.

 

any auto parts store can get the pump, but get one made by a quality name like carter.

for going with both pumps, i wired mine up on a relay which is wired so the glow plugs trigger the relay, and a pushbutton can override and power it on demand. i'll give you details on what wire went where if you like. it was fairly simple for a wiring freak like me

 

Yes tell how to wire it that Way if I can do it I will if not I have a friend who runs a diesel shop and works reasonably for me I will have him do it either way I need to get it done

 

Hey I have another question I keep having trouble starting the truck and I am letting the fuel pump run so that any air in the line is purged but then when I go to start it I get maybe 10 seconds out of the batteries before they're dead Oreilly's keeps checking the batteries are fine the alternator is fine the starter appears fine and sounds good what is my problem

 

I have two 850 Motorcraft batteries
Alternator is putting out anywhere between 33 and 40 Amps at 14 V
A couple days ago I went through it and took all my connections apart between battery and starter and alternator and everything is cleaned and tight

 

ok, for wiring it up, we start by looking at a standard relay and we wire it up from there.
note that you want my wiring as follows, not exactly as in the pic.

30 - to pump
85 - ground
86 - to glow plug relay, the fat post that sends power to the glow plugs. only recieves power when plugs are lit
87 - fused battery power, with a fuse of the size recomended by the pump manufacturer
87a - to pushbutton. other side of pushbutton goes to 87.

in this setup, the pump will run automatically when the glow plugs are lit, then turn off when the plugs turn off. in the event you run out of fuel or for some reason need the pump when the plugs aren't lit, the pushbutton over-rides the relay and turns the pump on anyway. note that the pushbutton is carrying the full load of the pump, so it should be rated accordingly.


now as for your starting issues, i'm seeing a few points to think about there.
first, with 2 good batteries i have a full 60 seconds of cranking ability before it starts to struggle. your 10 seconds is less than i can get with a single battery, so either your batteries aren't fully charged or they're dying, or a damaged wire has the full load on only one of those batteries not both.

looking at your charging system, where does your 33-40 amp number come from? a multimeter while idling, the tester in the store or ?? your alternator should be capable of delivering 100 amps or so, and should be able to do so if you're having it tested at the store.

 

Oreilly's told me 33 one time and 40 another time, but they also told the batteries were good, took it to a diesel mechanic that helps me, they do mostly semi's but he used to own a truck like mine, good guy and good resource, he tested the batteries and both showed 14 volts but when putting a load on them one was bad, and was still under warrantee so Oreilly's replaced for free. I was 99% sure it was battery. It's getting its slave cylinder and lift replaced today by his crew. Then hopefully it will start and no longer drop!!!
Harley Davidson model-----that was funny!!!