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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #1  
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Brake Issues

Hi guys,
I have an 05 f350 SWR 6spd. PSD, Monday i was driving the truck, hauling a load of scrap nothing really heavy 2600lbs + the trailer (2000lbs). When i got home my driver side rear brake was smoking.... So i went to Autozone bought a new one and Changed it out ( only after driving back becuase they sold me a passenger side. ) now today i was hauling another load 2000 lbs and when i get home the passenger side is smoking!
Now since the weekend every once and a while my ABS lights coming on and sometimes it stays on sometimes it doesn't.. Also i changed the passenger side about 9 months ago because it stuck then...

Anybody have any ideas why this is going on? is it just a coincidence? i wasn't riding the brakes at all hauling the loads i use the tranny as much as possible, any help would be great.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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What type of brakes? Ford controller/aftermarket? Tounge loaded application?.
Did you ever check out what was causeing the ABS lite?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 04:20 PM
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Possibly the flex line between the caliper and the frame. They can deteriorate inside and the pieces of rubber act like a check valve.

You'll need a scanner specifically for the ABS system or at least one that specifically says it has ABS functions to pull the codes.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 11:34 PM
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the trailer i was pulling doesn't have brakes. And i thought about the line but why would it mess with both sides? Also how do i scan the ABS light when it doesn't always stay on? it only comes on at random times. and why would it come on and then go right back off?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 05:00 AM
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Unless one of the lines have been replaced the deteriorate pretty much equally but it would be unusual for them to both have problems on the same trip. The light is illuminated when the problem is happening but the code will be stored in memory for many key cycles. It can be retrieved without the light being on.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2013 | 06:45 AM
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Have you ever flushed the brake system? Should be done every two years. Brake fluid is hygroscopipic and attracts moisture. Your brake systen could be full of crud.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 08:35 AM
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I've never Flushed the system but when it blew the 1st time i was forced to change it in the autozone parkinglot and lost all my fluid? so i know thats not a flush but it did have all new fluid put in.... but I checked my ABS light and and got codes C1155- Left front Speed sensor imput Circut Malfunction
and C1233 Wheel Speed left front input signal missing.
And guys i drove the truck about 250 miles with no trailer, didn't get the brakes hot at all, Then i put about 2 ton of gravel in the bed and sure enough it got hot??

I just can't seem to figure out why whenever i put any type of load on this truck it smokes the brakes?
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 09:01 AM
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My suggestion if your throwing parts at it is to first do a thorough flush first. I went thru 2 1/2 qts. of fluid doing a good flush and my system wasn't empty. The basics can come back to haunt you at times.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:41 AM
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On my 2000, I had to do a really good job of bleeding and was able to get rid of the codes. I think I still had a small bit of air. Lube those caliper pins all the way around while investigating and yes, the soft brake lines should really be changed with calipers. Next thing is clean those wheel sensors, ECT, up. This can be a finicky job. Once you start getting issues, you might as well do the whole brake system. Fix whatever else you find needs work, ie unit bearings, e brake, rotors, pads ECT.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 10:54 AM
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So, two issues. Replacing the ABS sensor or repairing the wire will likely turn the ABS light off. This is some general info that might help. Just my observations and not hard fast rules.

Overheating the rears could be a little tougher to figure. If you still have the old parts, you might get a clue by close inspection. Uneven wear on the pads or rotor could indicate binding of the pads where they slide on the calipers, binding at one of the mount pins (bolts) or even looseness where the caliper mount bracket bolts to the axle housing. I would inspect for wear, pitting or cracks on anything that slides and re-assemble using the proper lube the check the torque on ALL the mounting hardware. If the pads are squirming around you will often find the pads worn unevenly from one end to the other longways, if there is a taper shortways across the pad, caliper mount brackets, wheel bearings etc are suspect.

If the wear is pretty much even, I would suspect a hydraulic problem with the caliper piston, lines etc.

Also, a couple tons of gravel in the bed isn't just any kind of load. My '06 F250 (SRW) has a max rear axle weight of 6100lbs. Sitting on the scale empty the rear weighs 3025lbs, that leaves 3075lbs. Not sure about the #'s on the F350 but that load would be almost 1,000lbs over my (rated) max. I realize some of that weight would be on the front also, just pointing out that's a significant load.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 03:06 PM
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Rusty, I'm going to pull th back brake tonight. and check the pads... I didn't change anything on the passenger wheel since it was smoking just the other day. Is it possible since Autozone sells Reman calipers that it just is sticking again. I'm prob going to pick one up since they are lifetime warranty. But the part that is still puzzling to me is why would the brake only be getting hot when i'm towing or hauling. it just doesn't add up to me. i mean no matter what if it's the slides or caliper, why would extra weight be why it's sticking... I'll be checking back in later and see what the deal is with the pads, and see if we can come to a conclusion on what the problem is.... If a new caliper doesn't fix it then i'll move on to flushing the brakes, and also why i have it apart i'll inspect the flex lines.

Thanks for all the help so far
 
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Old Apr 14, 2013 | 08:39 PM
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when was the last time you pulled the guide pins out and greased them up. when you pull the pins out, if there is a rubber bushing on the end of the pins put those in the trash and replace them.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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Got the new caliper on last night, It was the caliper, the top piston was hard to get back in and there was a moist black gunk on the inside? Also the pads were worn even, but were pitted... Also i unplugged the front wheel sensor cleaned up the connection but it was no different, i guess i'm going to have to buy a new one.
Thanks for all the input
 
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