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Douglas DC9, my truck does have coil springs (if you mean vs leaf springs).
I will make the drivers side ball joints the priority, and will definitely use caution driving until I can get it done. How long can I hold off on the alignment after I finish? Would a week-week and a half be alright until the next paycheck comes in?
Also, would it be worthwhile to do the wheel bearings as well? I had planned on getting those done this summer.
a 2wd is simple on wheel bearings. just pop off the old bearing grease a new one and install it on the old race ONLY if the old ones don't look worn or grooved. And the alignment don't even bother with it. If the truck is aligned correctly before the new ball joints you will be fine. Your installing the same shim so it will go back together the SAME way. Ive lifted my F350, my dads F350 a buddies F250 and helped my cousin install a 6 inch lift on his 72 K30 and every one had an alignment done after and none of them needed to have the shims changed. All this is is a waste of money
I had it aligned a little over a month ago after I replaced the tie rods. The steering wheel sits a little bet to the right of center now. I'm not sure if I can just straighten the wheel out or if the whole thing is back out if alignment.
no problem and good luck! And just to be sure jack the front end up and check for play in theball joints. Either do the grab the wheel and try to move it test or use a pry bar between the knuckle and ball joint to see if it moves. And since your there start the truck and turn the wheel and see if the pop sound happens with the weight off the front end. Nothing is worse then thinking its one thing and it could be LOOSE BRAKE BOLTS or something simple
Thanks, I'll definitely be checking the brake bolts since I just replaced the caliper and bracket Easter weekend. With the truck on the ground, I can pull the top of the wheel and there is a tiny bit of movement and noise. Is that what you're saying when you say grab the wheel and try to move it? The lug nuts should be alright because I torqued them down to 100ftlbs (or maybe 110).
Find Spicer parts if they exist for this application? Mine has 60K on it and haven't had the pleasure of this.... yet. But all other 4wd trucks and muscle cars I've owned I seek out spicer drivetrain parts. Superior to to the other commonly available possible chineasium stuff available....period!!
Find Spicer parts if they exist for this application? Mine has 60K on it and haven't had the pleasure of this.... yet. But all other 4wd trucks and muscle cars I've owned I seek out spicer drivetrain parts. Superior to to the other commonly available possible chineasium stuff available....period!!
Do you mean versus the Moog parts that SuperDutyScaler posted earlier in the thread?
Yes I meant Moog. While Moog TRW is an OK part its just not HD enough for me. I don't like doing ball joints every 10K. EX: I had an S15 (junk) blazer that I couldn't keep ball joints in. Replaced twice w/i 20K. I bought Spicers and from what I know the truck is still on the road with those joints. That was 04. The Spicers secret, besides being higher quality and not offshore, is the dust boot is made of a better material and is clamped to the BJ so it seals out the dirt/water. The dust boot may or may not not apply to the Ford 250HD ball joints but this isnt the only positive experience Ive had with spicer drive train & chassis parts. Differentials, Ujoints splines, seals etc...They are just made better IMO. I haven't had my 250 apart so I'm not 100% sure about the dust boot as it visually doesnt look like there's a conventional boot there.
Had some free time yesterday, so I put the truck up on stands and got to work. Thought I'd update on the progress. Currently have everything off except the spindle on the drivers side. (Just waiting for my roommate to wake up so I can borrow his car to get a larger socket)
Here is how it looked after I jacked it off the ground. That kind of scares me how much play was in that upper ball joint. After I got the tire off and could get a good look, the cap that is on the top of the ball joint must have fallen off recently. (it was there the other day.)
Anyway, that's all I have done for right now, until I can get a socket big enough to fit on the lower ball joint nut.