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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Turn Signal Issues

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Old Apr 6, 2013 | 12:01 PM
  #1  
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Turn Signal Issues

I've got a '65 F100 that I've had for about a year and recently put the DJM Dream Beams kit on. I didn't think I had any issues, but when I was done I had no brake lights. After a quick check over I remember I bumped the brake switch with a wrench when I was putting on a new brake line and it blew the fuse.

Slapped a new fuse in and thought I was good, and took her out for a drive. Then I noticed my turn signals would stop when I applied the brakes, so I got a second set of eyes behind the truck and they confirmed it. I have good brake lights and running lights, but also noticed that no matter which blinker I used, both would flash, like the hazards were on.

What throws me off, is that the fronts work as they should, left flashes with left, vice versa, but both rears flash either way. Anyone ever had this problem, or could offer any suggestions?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2013 | 04:36 AM
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bhi11 Welcome to FTE and the Slicks forum.

These trucks have 2 flashers under the dash, 1 for turn signal, 1 for 4way flash. Something could be crossed there.

There are 3 wires running to the rear of the truck. 1 is for tail "running" the other 2 are right & left turn signals that share with the brakes.

Get yourself a circuit tester and start poking around. With the ign switch on, check the 2 wires at the master cyl. one should be hot and when the pedal is mashed the other side should light. Make sure that flasher cans are in both sockets and are working. (CHEEP) replacements.

After about 20-30 minutes of poking around you should have a good idea of where the issue is.


John
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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old broke prospector
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bhi11,

This problem may have nothing to do with your past project and may be a new one. It initially sounds like a short but maybe not....

Electricty will flow via the path of least resistance. If your grounds are bad, there is no telling where the trons will go. Same if the diodes in an alternator is bad.

Seems back in '71, there was a service bulletin on how bad grounds can affect the turn signals and stop lights and I read it in relation to my 1964 Galaxie I had at the time. I remember cleaning the cable from the engine to cowling and it fixed the strange electrical problems I was having.

Anyway, the first thing to do is to clean your grounds. Batt to frame. Frame to engine. Eng. to cab and/or frame to cab and bed to frame.

Then check your tail lights to see how they are grounded and clean them. If you can not find the grounds, you need to make some using light weight cables (riding lawn mower battery cables with new lugs work great). Clean all metal to a bright finish on both the cable and the metal.

Good luck
 
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 09:53 PM
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Hey I appreciate the welcome and the information guys. Electrical problems are always an adventure. I've undone the previous owner's...interestingly spliced in trailer harness hoping that would get me somewhere. No luck.

When I was fixing that mess I had a test light out and noticed I had power to both sides wires with the blinker on right near the rear axle where that trailer harness was wired in. I wonder if the 2 wires have worn through somewhere along the way to the back and are crossed and powering both sides? Or maybe I'm wrong in thinking that the 3 wires are a left power, right power, and ground? The hunt continues!

Edit: Duh, just re-read John's post. Running lights, left, right are the 3 wires. Still makes it weird that I'm getting power to both.
 

Last edited by bhi11; Apr 8, 2013 at 10:01 PM. Reason: Responding to previous post
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Old Apr 9, 2013 | 04:41 AM
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jowilker
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Barring re-wiring by a PO, there should be a factory connecter just off the end of the drivers side frame rail. A last section of wire (harness) that goes to the tails and license connects there. Many times that section is cut for trailer use. Trailers use the same 3 wire setup. A ground wire can be introduced there, these trucks are chassis ground, making what OBP said important.

It aint rocket science, you will figure it out.

John
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 08:50 AM
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Oh boy. Official cause of the problem...user error.

To put the DJM rear lowering kit on, you drill out the rivets for the factory front shackles and use nuts and bolts to mount the new shackle. Well when I put the new one on the drivers side I went by feel, as I couldn't see the inside of the frame rail and the wires for the blinkers got pinched together under a washer thus causing them both to be powered at the rear at all times.

What a dope. Thanks for the info guys, and I look forward to talkin' Slick Sixties with everyone. I'll have to get some pictures of Ol' Red up soon.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2013 | 05:04 PM
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Sounds just like something that I would do. Told ya it would be simple.



John
 
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