When i bought my 54 f100 it had a engine swap(351w) done to it and i have been working on it now and then replacing parts but now i have gotten to the point of plumbing it. my questions are what do you guys suggest to use for plumbing, and does anyone have a diagram or can you tell me what goes where because it wasnt hooked up at all when i bought so i dont know where anything goes.

 

Post a few photos and I'm sure someone would love to help with your "plumping". Lol sorry I had too... a photo is worth a thousand words.

 

I'm not sure what "plumbing" you are wanting to do, The fuel line is the only thing I'd call call plumbing on the truck besides the brakes. I would recommend using mostly steel line for the fuel line, it's pretty simple: run a steel line from your tank pickup over to the inside of the driver's side frame rail, and forward to the engine compartment near the fuel pump, keeping it away from the exhaust and any moving parts. You can buy straight lengths of 1/4" fuel line tubing with fittings attached at your local auto supply store along with an inexpensive tubing bender and tubing cutter. If you need to use more than a single piece of tubing, pick up a connector to join them with. Cut the end of the tubing from the tank where it is in a convenient location inside the engine compartment then attach the inlet end of a disposable transparent inline fuel filter from the parts store to the steel line with the a short length of rubber fuel hose and some ring type hose clamps. Attach and support this steel line to the truck about every 12 - 16" with a hanger clamp. (I prefer to use clamps that are metal lined with soft plastic that slip over the tubing then attach to the truck with a screw. Use short self drilling hex head screws with a driver in your drill to attach the clamps) Be sure to route the line in such a way that it does not touch or rub against any metal or moving parts. If it must go through a cross member or other metal, drill as large a hole as you can, 3/4 or 1", and line the hole with a rubber grommet. Adjust the line so it passes through the middle of this grommet without touching it. A quality plumbing job will have the line running as smoothly, straight, neat, and with the minimum bends as possible. (hint: use a length of soft wire: 1/16" uncoated brazing or welding rod works well and is inexpensive, or straighten out a couple old wire coat hangers, to bend patterns for the tubing before bending the tubing. If you mess up a piece of tubing, don't try to straighten or rebend it, set it aside and use another, chaulk it up to learning, they aren't that expensive.) Starting at the fuel pump, bend up another piece of steel tubing that will screw into the inlet side fitting of the fuel pump and run down along the front of the engine and over towards the frame rail, ending near to where the fuel filter is. Do not connect this line to the chassis, but use one line clamp at about the midway point using a convenient one of the engine bolts to secure it. End these steel lines from the fuel pump and the line from the tank with the filter on the end at such a location that you can easily connect the two together with a length of rubber fuel hose about 12" long. This hose should have some slack in it so the engine can move around some without pulling the line apart, and not be pinched, kinked or run within a couple inches of the exhaust header or pipes, or hang down below the bottom of the frame. Now you need one more steel line with a fitting at each end from the fuel pump outlet to the carb inlet. Again keep the routing clean and simple, you can use one of the valve cover bolts to hold a tubing clamp to secure this line. If you find you just cannot make this line out of one piece, cut it somewhere near the middle where it is straight and join the two ends with a 2- 3" piece of rubber tubing and clamps (remember the line from the fuel pump to the carb will be pressurized by the pump when the engine is running). In this case use two hangers near to either side of the joint to secure the two pieces. Anything you don't understand or is not clear please ask again.

 

I was going send a couple ex girl friends phone numbers.They're plumpers!LOL

 

https://mail-attachment.googleuserco...z7A0ESgeFc3UQs

 

Hey Ryan,
I tried the link - it didn't work. You can email me the pics & I'll post for you if that helps.

bwdanielson@gmail.com

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Hey Guys,
Here is a pic of Ryan's truck. Ryan - you may want to repeat your question - what are you working on that you may need a little help with?

Ben in Austin
1950 F1 351W/AOD

 

I see a fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb, looks like all you might need is a line from the tank to the fuel pump?

I guess another "plumbing" you will need is for cooling. What tranny do you have? Do you have a good radiator to use?

 

well right now the carb and the distrib are off im trying to pull the intake manifold but its stuck on but thats where i am right now, but it has the c6 tranny and it came with a different radiator with electric fans on it, It doesnt have a gas tank right now, the last owner had a beer keg for a gas tank and i took it out because it isnt the look im going for so i need a new tank but yeah i need to run cooling lines which i know where they go but i dont know where everything else goes cause it wasnt hooked up when i got it. and ill get more pics when this weekend hopefully

 

My question is; does anyone have a diagram or can help me where all the hoses go and how to hook up the whole engine hose wise so i can get it runnin. and i dont know if you guys can see the wiring down by the bottom of the engine but if you can got any on what i should do for that problem too should i buy a new wiring harness or pull it repair it and put it back on?

 

Just wondering if you have the radiator? Can't figure those hoses without that! As far as the wiring, start from scratch. There can be problems with the old wires you can't see from the outside. You can make one yourself or buy a universal type circuit board with wires attached which are marked where to go. It's really hard to figure where those electrical gremlins are with all new wiring. Using old stuff makes it that much harder.

 

Does the radiator you have fit the original horseshoe radiator mount? The entire front sheetmetal mounts on and is supported and aligned by the horseshoe. Many use a mustang gas tank mounted under the bed at the rear of the frame. The filler comes up thru and flush with the bed floor. Several aftermarketers offer a bed floor gas filler for the conversion.
Why are you pulling the intake? I hope you didn't throw out the fuel line.

The best way to deal with the wiring is to replace it all with a new universal harness and fuse panel. There are several good and inexpensive (for what you get and compared to a repro stock harness or some of the high priced "name" harnesses) Some of the popular ones are made by EZ wiring Home of EZ Wiring ; It's A Snap; and Speedway Home - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
There are different # of circuits kits, depending on how many electrical accessories and gizmos you are planning on using. A 12 circuit harness will work for a basic truck with a sound system and AC, If you are planning on adding electric windows, power locks, gps, etc etc, get a 21 or 22 circuit harness. It's easier and better to have extra circuits that you aren't using than to add circuits when you add accessories.

 

You have enough posts now to use the search function.

 

Hey Ryan,
The gas tank is a good one or two weekend project. We used a new 1970 Mustang tank - 22 gallons (38% more range than the original 16 gal. tank).
It fits between the rear frame with some minor fabrication - see jniolin's
how to series. The fill latch comes up flush with the wood decking in the rear portion of the bed - looks fine.

The mustang tank was under $120 new from Rock auto.

We also used an EZ Wire Kit - but it was close to the last thing done in
putting the truck back together.

Good luck over there.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Yeah the radiator fits and everything its just not on there right now, and pulling im pulling the intake to put a new one that will fit my new 4 barrel carb that i bought.