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The oil filter on a 5.4, when installed, is nearly perfectly verticle with the inlet and outlet at the upper end and at the lowest point on the engine. The only way the oil can "drain back" is with a leak.
All the oil that leaves the filter goes up higher in the engine...After shutoff gravity wants to push it down to the lowest spot..The MC filter stops it..so when you start the engine there is oil at the cam now...
I would personally just use the motorcraft filter and be done with it. I think they are like $3.60 at walmart.
I totally agree----for a buck or less difference, I always go with the motorcraft in all three of my Fords. I do know that the walmart brand filter also have the anti-drain back valve and I have used them on older trucks I've owned. Back in the 70's my brother-in-law's Dab had an F250 with a 351M engine. He changed his oil regularly, used good oil and used a fram filter. Every time the truck sat a while and he started it, you could hear a deep main knock till oil pressure built up. I rebuilt the engine after he past away and my brother-in-law got the truck. The crank had to be machined and new bearings. The PH-8 Fram did not have check valve at the time. This made a believer out of me. Regardless of the brand I use, I check to see if it has the check valve. Without it, it's like the oil has been changed and you've started it up with and empty filter.
The oil filter on a 5.4, when installed, is nearly perfectly verticle with the inlet and outlet at the upper end and at the lowest point on the engine. The only way the oil can "drain back" is with a leak.
This makes sense to me! If the filter was mounted higher up on the block (like a 302) then I guess drainback could occur. But the filter on my 5.4 is as GVS says at the lowest point, oil from up top is going to drain back into the pan anyway. The filter remains full as is evident when changing (very messy!)
I got ready to change oil in our '09 5.4 SD and I ran across a passage in the owners manual that stated that if you use a non-Motorcraft oil filter it may cause engine knocking upon start up.
Our truck knocks for a second or so when it starts. Kinda' reminds me of the piston slap that occurred at start up with the old Ford 300 inline 6 cylinder engines of the past after they got some miles on them. Sounds somewhat similar. This engine has 35,000 actual miles so I wouldn't thing excessive wear would be the culprit.
I'm using a Bosch Premium oil filter now after having heard and read how they are superior in their filtering ability.
Just wondered if any of you guys have run into a similar situation and if the Motorcraft filter in fact makes a difference in reference to start up knock
Could it just be your lifters making the noise before pressure builds to fill the gap?
Mine has done this for years.
I know when others have let their oil level get to low, it takes even longer to get the noise to go away.
Its not about the filter draining. Its about all the lines going up hill to the engine draining back.
What you are saying about the top of the engine and the oil up there draining down to the oil pan is correct but since the filter is at nearly the lowest point on the engine it doesn't drain. If someone wanted to run a filter without an anti drain back valve they'd still be safe on this engine.
What you are saying about the top of the engine and the oil up there draining down to the oil pan is correct but since the filter is at nearly the lowest point on the engine it doesn't drain. If someone wanted to run a filter without an anti drain back valve they'd still be safe on this engine.
Not really, the valve keeps the oil in the top of the engine. They didn't put the valve there for nothing. Repeated no oil starts are not good for it at all.
Not really, the valve keeps the oil in the top of the engine. They didn't put the valve there for nothing. Repeated no oil starts are not good for it at all.
After the engine is shut down the oil that is in the head and block drains back to the pan via drain back passages in the heads and block.These passages also allow blow by gasses and pressure an escape route to the PCValve.The oil that drains back goes nowhere near the oil filter.The next time that oil sees the filter is when the oil pump picks it up and sends it to the filter and out to the rest of the engine.
After the engine is shut down the oil that is in the head and block drains back to the pan via drain back passages in the heads and block.These passages also allow blow by gasses and pressure an escape route to the PCValve.The oil that drains back goes nowhere near the oil filter.The next time that oil sees the filter is when the oil pump picks it up and sends it to the filter and out to the rest of the engine.
I don't think so. I guess the engineers wasted all their time and the filter people blew all their money on valves for nothing.
I don't think so. I guess the engineers wasted all their time and the filter people blew all their money on valves for nothing.
Why would you say money was wasted on oil filter check valves? If the filter is mounted closer to horizontal and dosen't have an anti drain back valve it will partially drain.Like a 302/351 and many other engines.Ever see the filter on a mopar slant 6?It is mounted upside down.There is a stand pipe on the filter mount that extends up into the filter to hold oil in the filter. Ever hear Fords 300 cu. in. 6 light off on a cool/cold moring? Gives new meaning to the term "valve Train Clatter" and dosen't matter what kind of oil filter is installed.
Why would you say money was wasted on oil filter check valves? If the filter is mounted closer to horizontal and dosen't have an anti drain back valve it will partially drain.Like a 302/351 and many other engines.Ever see the filter on a mopar slant 6?It is mounted upside down.There is a stand pipe on the filter mount that extends up into the filter to hold oil in the filter. Ever hear Fords 300 cu. in. 6 light off on a cool/cold moring? Gives new meaning to the term "valve Train Clatter" and dosen't matter what kind of oil filter is installed.
My neighbor had a slant 6 Dodge and he complained about it taking a long time for the oil idiot light to go off after cold start-ups, we put a FL-1 Motrocraft filter (with anti-drain valve) on it and the light went off almost instantly on starting after sitting cold.
Ok guys, virtually all oil filters on the market for automotive applications have anti-drainback valves. The difference being that some filters have a silicone ADBV, which is better than the standard nitrile rubber ADBV found in most standard filters. The nitrile rubber is more prone to harden and leak than silicone. Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator, but to different specs than Purolator branded filters. Motorcraft filters ending with the letter S (like the FL-820S) contain a silicone ADBV, and the ones that don't (like the FL-1A) have a nitrile ADBV.
The Bosch Premium that the OP is using is also made by Purolator and is virtually identical to the Purolator Pure One, both of which also contain a silicone ADBV.
You really can't go wrong with the quality and price of the Motorcraft filters. If you take a look on BITOG, Motorcrafts are one of the most popular filters for people on there, even for use on non-Ford vehicles.
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