351C Cam recommdations
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Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 64
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From: South of Detroit
351C Cam recommdations
I'm looking to build my old 351C, I have both the 4V and 2V heads. What are your thoughts on a cam selection? I already have the electronic igintion setup, should I consider TB injection? I see edelbrock makes a TB system but I'm not sure I like the price. I'm looking for the most HP I can get without going to NOS, or a positive air delivery system. Does anyone know what kind of HP I should expect to get out of this? Has anyone been able to get the 351C to run on unleaded gas??? I loved the power I got from this engine but I'm not sure what I'm in for, any ideas or suggestions 
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 887
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From: Jax FL
351C Cam recommdations
a lot will depend on you setup. i say a solid cam, and the crane roller rocker conversion kit.
the best thing to do is get a copy of desktop dyno, not cheap anymore, but it will allow you test the cams before you buy.
the best thing to do is get a copy of desktop dyno, not cheap anymore, but it will allow you test the cams before you buy.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 987
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From: East Bend, Carolina, U.S
351C Cam recommdations
I have a mildly built 1971 open chamber 2V 351C. The cam lift is .484 and .510. I did notice that it does run fine on 87 octane unleaded with hyperuetectic pistons. Before the rebuild it would not run without pinging on 87 octane even with stock lower compression. I do however have to use premium to set timing to get the most horsepower without pinging or detonation.
My heads have all exhaust seats replaced with hardened ones. All valves are new and valve springs are new. I did have some new graphite type of valve stem seals which I don't recommend as they allow more oil past them than the umbrella type. The new type are better for clearance with higher lift cams, but just don't seal that good in my opinion.
I recommend to at least use a piston like I used to help with using todays gas and a higher cooling capacity radiator to keep it cool if driving in traffic much or any racing.
My heads have all exhaust seats replaced with hardened ones. All valves are new and valve springs are new. I did have some new graphite type of valve stem seals which I don't recommend as they allow more oil past them than the umbrella type. The new type are better for clearance with higher lift cams, but just don't seal that good in my opinion.
I recommend to at least use a piston like I used to help with using todays gas and a higher cooling capacity radiator to keep it cool if driving in traffic much or any racing.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 64
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From: South of Detroit
351C Cam recommdations
Doesn't anyone know where I can get desktop dyno? I don't have a car yet to put my engine in, I'm testing the water with the wife 
I know once I get this project underway the $$$ factor will pay a major factor in the vehicle I can afford. Where did you get the hardened valve seat job, my local guy who works on all my projects didn't recommend replacing both seat.
I know once I get this project underway the $$$ factor will pay a major factor in the vehicle I can afford. Where did you get the hardened valve seat job, my local guy who works on all my projects didn't recommend replacing both seat.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 987
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From: East Bend, Carolina, U.S
351C Cam recommdations
I had mine done at a machine shop here in Winston-Salem, North Carolina. The exhaust side is the only one that really benefits from this. I am sure there are some engines made later after mine that have stock hardened seats. 72 or 73 on up may be ok with a valve job and no hardened seats installed. I have no idea how to check them to be sure if they are already hardened from the factory.
To be honest if an engine isn't worked too hard or raced to hard the stock seats do hold up pretty well most of the time. There are a few engines I have seen that had severe valve seat wear and they were truck engines that worked pretty hard pulling heavy loads. When I say severe I mean the valves were recessed into the head far enough that the valve wasn't even able to close all of the way and some compression was lost in those cylinders. So there you have it. It is more of a personal decision and is determined by how you plan to use an engine. All of these old engines will experience some valve seat wear. The amount of wear and how fast are determined on the original valve seat durability and the type of use. Oh and don't forget about the additives you use will affect the wear also.
To be honest if an engine isn't worked too hard or raced to hard the stock seats do hold up pretty well most of the time. There are a few engines I have seen that had severe valve seat wear and they were truck engines that worked pretty hard pulling heavy loads. When I say severe I mean the valves were recessed into the head far enough that the valve wasn't even able to close all of the way and some compression was lost in those cylinders. So there you have it. It is more of a personal decision and is determined by how you plan to use an engine. All of these old engines will experience some valve seat wear. The amount of wear and how fast are determined on the original valve seat durability and the type of use. Oh and don't forget about the additives you use will affect the wear also.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 887
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From: Jax FL
351C Cam recommdations
desktop dyno is sold at www.motionsoftware.com
also get a paw catalog from www.pawinc.com
they have lots of cams. you can also check out the cam manufactures web sites for more info
also get a paw catalog from www.pawinc.com
they have lots of cams. you can also check out the cam manufactures web sites for more info
