Hi Everyone,
Been lurking for a while and thought I'd ask some clarifying questions about the timing chain and related procedures.
OK, I have a 1996 F150 XLT 5.0 auto 4x4 with about 95,000 miles. Had and issue with the water pump weeping so I decided to replace it. Radiator was also leaking so that went too. So far I've removed the radiator, the water pump, timing cover, and the oil pan gasket (serious leak at the rear of the pan). I snapped off a bolt when removing the water pump. Managed to get the timing cover off and will be replacing the timing chain & sprockets. I've got to work on getting that stud/bolt out of the block, but I'm not too worried about that.

But here's where my questions come in:

1. Do I need a puller for the timing chain sprockets? or do they just slide off after unbolting the one on the cam? I've read conflicting info.

2. Where do I have to use RTV/sealant when I reassemble everything? The gaskets I bought are all Fel-Pro and the oil pan gasket advises not to use any sealant. The timing cover/water pump gasket set doesn't say one way or the other.

Any suggestions???
I'm grateful for any help anyone could give. I've done quite a few repairs over the years (mostly with Mustangs) including engine swaps, but never had to mess with a timing chain.

Thanks
WES

 

When I replaced my water pump my timing cover gasket was leaking so the timing chain was included, I also replaced the fan clutch . I had no problem with getting the cam gear off when I did mine. I did not need a puller. I have done water pump / timing covers with and without sealant on both sides. It's your choice. Your there looking at the flanges so you know what would be best for your job. Broken water pump bolts sometime happen with these. You sound like you will do fine getting it out. At 95,000 miles your truck is just getting broke in Your doing good preventive maintenance and welcome to FTE

 

WELCOME TO FTE. Be sure & replace the front oil seal in the timing cover. If your removing the oil pan take it to a bench. As your looking into the pan you will notice that the pan bolt holes are sucked up a little. Take a ball pene hammer the pene end & lay it on each hole & with another hammer dimple them out. When you replace the pan the bolts will suck them level. With them sticking up even a very little the pan bolt holes will hit first leaving a slight gap between the holes. Down the road if you need to tighten the bolts it won't help.
The only place I would use high heat RTV is at corners of pan & timing cover. If your going to have any leak that is where it will happen most likely.
Is your rear oil leak the pan or a rear main seal?
Craig

 

Thanks for the replies. As far as the fan clutch goes, I'm tossing the mechanical fan and converting to an electric fan. Already have the 130amp alt, fan, shroud and controller/wiring so I'm all set with that.
Yes, I'm fairly certain it's the pan and not the rear main seal. The rear of the pan gasket was actually hanging out of the back of the pan. But the rear main may be bad, too. Who knows? If it is, then I guess I'm pulling the engine at some point.
Not taking the pan off, just replacing the gasket with it still on the truck. I'm going to try it without lifting the engine.
I got the broken bolt out tonight so I should be good to go and will hopefully get it all done this weekend.
Thanks for the RTV suggestions and I've already replaced the crank seal on the timing cover.

WES

 

I think you can remove the pan but you have to remove the oil pump to get the pan off then when installing put the pan in place & reinstall the oil pump. If your not pulling the pan so you can take out the dimples then you better RTV the pan.
Craig

 

Big problems!!! Put on the new chain and sprockets and buttoned everything up. It started right up and ran for about 30 seconds with a horrible banging noise. The new chain broke, sheared the teeth off the sprockets, and took out a threaded boss in the block behind the the cam sprocket. Block is done.
I'm unbelievably frustrated with this. I was all excited to start this thing up after replacing the water pump, 2 row radiator, spark plugs, wires, dizzy cap, ignition coil, and converting to dual electric fans with a 130amp alt upgrade. But it simply wasn't to be. The engine is toast.
WES

 

Wow what exactly did it damage on the block? I don't remember seeing anything that would get taken out by a timing chain.

 

There's some kind of ring behind the cam sprocket that bolts to the block. Somehow that ring broke and tore out one of the bolt holes. Literally cracked the mounting boss.

 

Oh man, that's harsh. So sorry to hear about your situation!

 

That ring is actually the camshaft retainer. Post some pictures of the damage. I have tapped many bolt holes in blocks and Harley engine case's. So post clear pictures and close ups of the cam flange & bolt holes. It may or may not be able to be saved.
The real question I would be concerned about,, is it only ran a few moments . So what caused this to happened. I'm sure you lined up the timing marks. Yes ? The cam gear on cam nose fully and torqued ? ""This not a blame game here "" it's to,,, If possible to find the cause... Look I'm Old Fart
(at least that what my wife say's ) But I have been around Farm machinery, Motorcycles ect. a long time. This is a new one for me. You have invested a lot in this , so as I said show us some views and if your lucky it may be possible to save.......... Oh and about my Wife's comment .. The other day we were at the Parts store. When I was paying the guy asked me if I wanted a Bag. I told him No thanks ,,,,,Mine was in the car !!!!!

 

OK, Black Nite, here's a pic of the issue. Notice how the top bolt hole is missing a piece. I'm not even sure where to begin with this thing so I'm throwing in the towel; especially with a rotted out core support!! It's a shame, too, because the truck looks good from the outside.
https://imageshack.us/photo/my-image...img3089uf.jpg/
Any advice is appreciated. And if anyone wants a parts truck PM me for me info.
Thanks.

 

Yes, timing marks were lined up. I'm confident that wasn't the issue. I will say that the new chain was very tight when it went on. I should have turned the crank by hand after I got the chain on to see how freely it moved, but I didn't. Nor did I compare the replacement sprockets and chain to the one I pulled off. I'm thinking I somehow got the wrong parts. First time doing a timing chain and it ended in catastrophic failure.