removing engine question
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Freshman User
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removing engine question
My buddy is going to help me pull the engine out of my 48 f2.
I haven't done an engine rebuild before so this should be fun. He has removed lots of engines but never on something like this.
My question is what gotchas do I need to know? I assume I remove everything attached, plus engine mounts, and transmission bolts.
Then I will put some metal clothes hangers up to hold up the transmission.
Also, getting the engine out. I haven't rented a hoist before. Even if I get one at the local parts store would it pull up far enough (the engine bay is so tall on this thing). My buddy was wondering if we could lower it and raise the truck and slide the truck underneath. Any chance that will work?
I haven't done an engine rebuild before so this should be fun. He has removed lots of engines but never on something like this.
My question is what gotchas do I need to know? I assume I remove everything attached, plus engine mounts, and transmission bolts.
Then I will put some metal clothes hangers up to hold up the transmission.
Also, getting the engine out. I haven't rented a hoist before. Even if I get one at the local parts store would it pull up far enough (the engine bay is so tall on this thing). My buddy was wondering if we could lower it and raise the truck and slide the truck underneath. Any chance that will work?
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 2
From: Sterling, Virginia
You could take the front wheels off and use a couple of jack stands under the axle to get the height you need, and remove the hood. Go slow, there's also something you forget to disconnect. Good Luck
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
What engine are you removing, the 6 or the V8? I had to pull mine and I wasn't sure if I could do it with the crane I have, so I made the sketch below. It worked out, but I really don't like having heavy weights up that high. It takes a couple of hours to get the frojnt end sheet metal off in one piece, if you have some friends handy, and it makes the job a snap. If you are lifting the 6-banger, I'd definitely take off the sheet metal.
You need something more than coat hanger to hold up the trans. I used a piece of 2 x 2 tube steel across the floor opening with a ratcheting strap under the trans, see below. A wood 2x4 might be enough, depending what trans you have. If you have the 4-sp trans, I'd use a 4x4 at least. You will want something sturdy that holds the trans firmly in place when you want to put the engine back in.
You need something more than coat hanger to hold up the trans. I used a piece of 2 x 2 tube steel across the floor opening with a ratcheting strap under the trans, see below. A wood 2x4 might be enough, depending what trans you have. If you have the 4-sp trans, I'd use a 4x4 at least. You will want something sturdy that holds the trans firmly in place when you want to put the engine back in.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 67
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I tore my F1 down to the frame just a few weeks back. So, of course it was easy for me as I had all sheet metal off the front. Funny thing is, I had the most trouble trying to get the radiator hoses off. I eventually gave up and used a hack saw to cut them. I'm not planing on using the original flathead so I guess it will be the next guys problem to get the hoses off the block. They sure do bond themselves well!
Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 234
Likes: 9
From: Tuttle, OK
I just took the v8 out of mine with the front sheet metal on. I had to lift the crane past the safe limit (bout an inch and a half past the red line on the piston shaft), and still just barely cleared.
Part of the problem was I left the carb on the motor and lifted with an equalizer bar, which took away about 8-10 inches of lift. It also made the boom too short since it was already raised up that high above the motor. When the motor came up off the mounts it lunged forward against the core support spreader. When it cleared that it came forward and hit the upper valance, putting a little dent in it.
No big deal, but given the chance to do it again, I'd have pulled the dog house off in one piece. I ended up doing that the next day anyway to get ready for a Mustang II install. Since I'd already removed all the wiring and cut the exhaust pipes, it only took about 30 minutes and two people to do. 8 bolts!
I recommend pulling the carb if you are going to leave the sheet metal on, so you can get the end of the boom down closer to the motor. You should be ok then. I used a 2x4 with a nylon strap to hold the 4sp trans up. Yooper wasn't kidding about the hoses!
Part of the problem was I left the carb on the motor and lifted with an equalizer bar, which took away about 8-10 inches of lift. It also made the boom too short since it was already raised up that high above the motor. When the motor came up off the mounts it lunged forward against the core support spreader. When it cleared that it came forward and hit the upper valance, putting a little dent in it.
No big deal, but given the chance to do it again, I'd have pulled the dog house off in one piece. I ended up doing that the next day anyway to get ready for a Mustang II install. Since I'd already removed all the wiring and cut the exhaust pipes, it only took about 30 minutes and two people to do. 8 bolts!
I recommend pulling the carb if you are going to leave the sheet metal on, so you can get the end of the boom down closer to the motor. You should be ok then. I used a 2x4 with a nylon strap to hold the 4sp trans up. Yooper wasn't kidding about the hoses!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 701
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From: Echuca VIC Australia
An old trick I've used a couple of times if your crane is struggling for height, let the front tyres down, in these old girls it gains you 3-4 inches.
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oldmerc
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Edmonton,Alberta
You are getting lots of good advice . Take Ross's sugestion as to suporting the transmission . As far as revoval of the engine goes , removal of the front sheet metal clip sure makes the job easier .
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 934
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From: Sterling, Virginia
I agree with that. Once it's in the air, you can tilt it so the tranny clears the bottom of the firewall.
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Freshman User
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It is a 6 cylinder.
Got into this morning. And was planning on taking the engine off the transmission.
Got stuck on the starter. The two bolts on the side came off but it still wouldn't come off. Was reading later in the book about taking the front bolt off? How Do I get this starter off?
Also, as far as the transmission. Does the bell housing separate from the transmission? Or is just transmission and engine?
Thanks again for all the advice and help.
I have no idea how people did stuff like this being a novice like I am without the internet and forums like this. Very grateful.
Got into this morning. And was planning on taking the engine off the transmission.
Got stuck on the starter. The two bolts on the side came off but it still wouldn't come off. Was reading later in the book about taking the front bolt off? How Do I get this starter off?
Also, as far as the transmission. Does the bell housing separate from the transmission? Or is just transmission and engine?
Thanks again for all the advice and help.
I have no idea how people did stuff like this being a novice like I am without the internet and forums like this. Very grateful.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 3,038
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From: South west Idaho
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
unbolt the tranny behind the hogshead, leaving the starter on. If you were to leave the tranny on during removal, it will get heavy on the back, causing the whole engine to tip. The parking brake lever on the tranny will get in the way of everything if trying to pull as a unit (some F2's had the parking brake on the tranny itself), plus the fan, if still on, will go right into the hoist arm, and may bend. IMO, leave the tranny in, or at least remove it by itself first. Definitely get the radiator out of there first, that's a rule of thumb for about any RWD engine. Personally, I'd pull the front clip off, IIRC, it's only 6 bolts.... that would make it easier to pull them both if the tranny stays on the engine.
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Freshman User
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Thanks guys. I hear you guys on the transmission. And I think it would good to get it out and overhaul it to if it needs.
However, I still have the same questions as above.
-Does the bell housing separate from the transmission? Sounds like it does.
-Is it possible to remove the starter and the engine without pulling the transmission? I was reading the shop manual and it says "The spring type starter drive is removed from the starter shaft by removing the two spring screws, the starter drive head, and the drive spring" All I did was remove the two screws attaching it to the bell housing. I need to go out and look in a bit, and see if there is a bolt in the middle and if that does anything.
However, I still have the same questions as above.
-Does the bell housing separate from the transmission? Sounds like it does.
-Is it possible to remove the starter and the engine without pulling the transmission? I was reading the shop manual and it says "The spring type starter drive is removed from the starter shaft by removing the two spring screws, the starter drive head, and the drive spring" All I did was remove the two screws attaching it to the bell housing. I need to go out and look in a bit, and see if there is a bolt in the middle and if that does anything.