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I guess I'm the one looking left when you guys are looking right...
...but I found Ford's diagnostic procedures extremely useful last summer when I was figuring out my brother's 1993 Taurus SHO.
That FA 10 stuff seems perfectly reasonable to me... it's giving you some pre-reqs, telling you to install a breakout box, then it's telling you to measure the resistance in a circuit, on specific pins connecting the computer to the vehicle wiring.
The computer is expecting voltages between X and Y on such-n-such pins and the book is having you go investigate... if we are correctly supplying that voltage at the correct times but the computer thinks otherwise, replace the computer... what's wrong with that? Computers can fail - capacitors leak, components burn out, whatever.
Their instructions are to return the vehicle to the same condition it was in when it came off the assembly line, I don't fault them for that as that's what a paying customer expects, not a redneck-hillbilly Band-Aid® (especially when it's a warranty repair).
ct i also agree with you too, but i'll tell you a story back in 87 my truck would crank and take 6 seconds to start it would also stall after fast idle, it went to the dealership 10 times for the same problem, they replaced the processor replaced the harness replaced the idle air bypass ect. At one point i became so enraged that i went and visited the plant manager his solution was replace the engine to which i said no because part of the deal was the new engine would've had no warranty. i later on found out the problem ,the injectors were faulty. I didn't find this out at the dealership, the company, or anywhere else. i found out when i did a cylinder balance test and seen that there was a major difference in cyl output. all that replacing and flow charts did not help me or the mechanic who was trying to fix my truck. I did, and thanks to Jimi Chung our head of the FoMoCo dyno at essex engine plant, i was able to get 8 new injectors and suddenly all my trouble went away. Customers who pay don't want to be at the dealership weekly, they want to drive their new vehicles without trouble, and when there is a problem have the right to have it fixed the first time.I understand its frustrating for some people, easier for others, and most of all i've personally enjoyed helping others and debating solutions like here on this site, I will give all the information and knowledge I have to offer and take my lumps when i'm wrong. For me the louiville grille (Bullnose 80-86 F-150's) are a passion and I value all of the opinions I receive here good or bad.Yours Truly in earnest Jim.
It seems to me the mechanic(s) working on your truck needed to do some more diagnosis; one cannot rely on the books to tell you everything, they are guides to help you diagnose and figure out a problem.
It sounds to me like all the replacing of parts they did was them shooting in the dark because they simply didn't have the experience and didn't know any better. And then, there is also the time-required factor....
It was also in the early days of computer-controlled EFI engines which were new to a lot of people at the time, and I'm sure there were politics and egos involved at times.
While it would be nice if a problem could be fixed the first time, that is not always the case and I don't necessarily expect it. I'm a computer techie and my mind is always delving into things... I like to figure out how things work, have always been the kind of person to take things apart just to see how they work. But it can take a lot of time, and a business is in business to make money, so sometimes shotgun approaches (e.g. new engine) make economic sense, especially when the mechanics aren't fully aware of what it is they're doing....
BTW it'd help us read your posts if you'd split up your text into paragraphs, the white space makes it easier to read. Big blocks of text are a turn-off, thanks.
Hi Dort and Franklin2, I got the clutch switch installed yesterday. But that plastic rod adjustment is not closing the switch. I can't make it adjust down to where it will press in the switch. I got this out of a wrecked F250 85 model so I think I was lucky to even find one. Switch checks ok with a ohm meter. Any ideas as to how to get the nylon rod to allow you to adjust to take up the small amount of slack in it? It looks like it only wants to slide one way like a zip tie.
Your very welcome my friend. I hope all goes smoothly for you, if after you clear code 67 and it comes back ,I'll be happy to help you troubleshoot it with you as it can be a pain. Sincerely Jim.
It seems to me the mechanic(s) working on your truck needed to do some more diagnosis; one cannot rely on the books to tell you everything, they are guides to help you diagnose and figure out a problem.
It sounds to me like all the replacing of parts they did was them shooting in the dark because they simply didn't have the experience and didn't know any better. And then, there is also the time-required factor....
It was also in the early days of computer-controlled EFI engines which were new to a lot of people at the time, and I'm sure there were politics and egos involved at times.
While it would be nice if a problem could be fixed the first time, that is not always the case and I don't necessarily expect it. I'm a computer techie and my mind is always delving into things... I like to figure out how things work, have always been the kind of person to take things apart just to see how they work. But it can take a lot of time, and a business is in business to make money, so sometimes shotgun approaches (e.g. new engine) make economic sense, especially when the mechanics aren't fully aware of what it is they're doing....
BTW it'd help us read your posts if you'd split up your text into paragraphs, the white space makes it easier to read. Big blocks of text are a turn-off, thanks.
I found an old sheet from a longtime ago that shows the changes Ford implements which explains why some things are different from the blueprints.
well dort my clutch does not care if the clutch iss in or out. it will not start unless it is in but my famous code 67 still shows up! are u suppose to pull the codes with the clutch in?
you don't need to have the clutch in to pull the codes i will post the diagnostic procedures for you in a few minutes they will be from the Ford manual in picture form.First disconnect your positive battery cable for about 30 seconds them reconnect it and run a KOEO test. Then see if you get a code 11. Or warm up the engine first then do the above mentioned step. Then see what codes you get.
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