1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

My 1970 F100 Flareside (Pic Heavy)

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  #151  
Old 01-05-2015, 01:36 PM
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Thanks for the concern Ultraranger.
I will be replacing the rag joint and radius arm bushings while the motor is out. Those are the only steering issues ATM. The brakes will get another inspection also at this time. I am plenty happy with the drum brakes but wouldn't mind upgrading once I run across a proper donor. They will be adjusted and parts replaced if needed. I am also doing U-joints and rear axle bearings and seals.
The current engine leaks oil and water. it also has a knocking sound like a mallet on wood. The exhaust manifold is also cracked.

I don't do any hot rodding and the truck never sees the highway unless it is going over or under it. I stick to surface streets and that keeps the trucks max speed generally under 45mph. I make sure the truck is safe on the street and maintained.
 
  #152  
Old 01-05-2015, 01:40 PM
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The old clothes pins would be good for that, but I had the tape within reach. The pins I have are still burried in a box somewhere.
 
  #153  
Old 01-10-2015, 08:23 PM
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Well today has been rather eventful. I was almost rear-ended at a light as I was on the way home from getting my hoist and engine stand from a friend.
Once I got home and settled down, I began the tear down of the bottom end of the motor.

oil pan has a little crud but nothing unexpected.


Everything looks fairly typical


crank caps, pistons, and lifters


since the bench is covered and cluttered I left the cam and crank sitting in the block so they are not damaged.


I need to see if the machine shop wants the timing gears off. I can get the crank gear off since it has threaded puller holes. I will need to find a way to get the cam gear off. I don't have a puller that will fit it without damaging it.


I was going to get shots of the cylinder walls but luckily I remembered the caps were off the crank before spinning the motor.

I did find one gotcha in the motor. Luckily it doesn't look like it caused any damage.


Oh and the rear-ending I was lucky to stay out of, the guy in front of me in the left lane wasn't so lucky
 
  #154  
Old 01-10-2015, 08:37 PM
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'Looking good Gembone. Do the main and rod journals look OK??? I mark and bag up the main and rod bearings in case the machinist wants to see what they look like.

Where was the pushrod remnant found? In the oil pan?

Are you gonna build the engine or gonna have the shop do it?
 
  #155  
Old 01-10-2015, 08:49 PM
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front main bearing looks to have some heat damage. I keep them all in the caps in place so they can look at them along with the piston rod bearings.


since the engine was upside down when the pan was removed I am guessing it was in pan originally. It is not one of the 12 pushrods that were installed currently.

I will be doing the engine assembly so I can be sure everything is properly torqued according to spec. I need to grab some assembly lube next time I am at the store.
 
  #156  
Old 01-10-2015, 09:07 PM
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10-4.

You'll also need RTV.. and thread sealant for the oil gallery plugs (behind the timing gear)
 
  #157  
Old 01-11-2015, 07:30 PM
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Awesome truck!! Just read through the whole build, nice progress.
 
  #158  
Old 01-11-2015, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NFLD FLARESIDE
Awesome truck!! Just read through the whole build, nice progress.
Thanks. It is slow going but it is getting there.
This latest bit with the engine build and other maintenance additions will take a huge chuck out of the things it needs.

Next will be the full length rubber floor cover and possibly a driver's side window regulator. the crank is very wobbly and it binds up a bit. I will also be doing complete door/window rubbers and felts.

That is once the truck fund is built back up. The engine build is going to drain it.
 
  #159  
Old 01-11-2015, 08:45 PM
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I know about slow and steady man. It might take a while, but you appreciate it more
 
  #160  
Old 01-11-2015, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
front main bearing looks to have some heat damage. I keep them all in the caps in place so they can look at them along with the piston rod bearings.


since the engine was upside down when the pan was removed I am guessing it was in pan originally. It is not one of the 12 pushrods that were installed currently.

I will be doing the engine assembly so I can be sure everything is properly torqued according to spec. I need to grab some assembly lube next time I am at the store.
seeing that one rod bearing, I'd take the rods in for realignment.

Orich
 
  #161  
Old 01-11-2015, 09:05 PM
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It may seem slow, but it looks like your going to have a nice truck.
 
  #162  
Old 01-11-2015, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by orich
seeing that one rod bearing, I'd take the rods in for realignment.

Orich

That is the front crank cap not a rod.

block, head, pistons, cam, crank, and all bearings are all going to the machine shop. This way they have a complete view of the engine.

I am still deciding on if I should replace the push rods and lifters. I am leaning towards at least replacing the lifters as a just in case.
 
  #163  
Old 01-11-2015, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by NFLD FLARESIDE
I know about slow and steady man. It might take a while, but you appreciate it more
Originally Posted by Randle
It may seem slow, but it looks like your going to have a nice truck.
Thanks guys.
This is my daily driver so I have to do things in stages when I do have the funds.

I am trying to get all the bits and pieces ready for when I go to do the swap.
If I get the time I will go ahead and things like the rear axle bearings and seals along with the u-joints. Then do the front bearings, and radius arm bushings. These are things that I can do in an afternoon without taking the truck out of service.
I will also be building a gauge cluster from an extra bezel and a set of gauges I have. 4 smaller with a larger speedo in the center. I would eventually like to get an F500+ cluster, but for now I will work with what I have.

I hope to get all this done before the engine is back from the machine shop. Who knows if that will happen.
 
  #164  
Old 01-11-2015, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
I wanted a full front to back rubber mat but can only find one that goes from firewall to the seat. So I will go with carpet and get rubber mats.

I will try to not take 6 months with the updates this time
I thought you could only get the short floor mats too until I found full length mats at RockAuto.
With gas tank in cab it's ACC Part # 1740869VINYL.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...,parttype,1264

I'll post some pics here tomorrow night of the one I got.
Great thread, keep going!!!

Nite nite.....
 
  #165  
Old 01-11-2015, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Gembone
Thanks guys.
This is my daily driver so I have to do things in stages when I do have the funds.

I am trying to get all the bits and pieces ready for when I go to do the swap.
If I get the time I will go ahead and things like the rear axle bearings and seals along with the u-joints. Then do the front bearings, and radius arm bushings. These are things that I can do in an afternoon without taking the truck out of service.
I will also be building a gauge cluster from an extra bezel and a set of gauges I have. 4 smaller with a larger speedo in the center. I would eventually like to get an F500+ cluster, but for now I will work with what I have.

I hope to get all this done before the engine is back from the machine shop. Who knows if that will happen.


I've built several trucks that way, and I think you really appreciate them more when your done.
 


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