OK, I installed an older chip with brand new tunes from PHP (I bought the chip from someone on another forum) with the following setpoints in my 2000 F350 CCSB 4x4 bone stock (until now).
1. 25 tow
2. 45 tow
3. 65 tow
4. 80 Daily Driver
5. 120 Race
6. High idle 1100 rpm
I wanted to install my gages before the chip, but desiring better shifting got the besw of me and a good deal came along so I couldn't pass it up. Now I have the chip installed and no gages to monitor. What do you think is the safest setting to drive to and from work with and yet still get to enjoy the chip? !For example, what do you think the highest setting that I can safely run without EGTs getting to high with stock exhaust and stock everything else? The gages are next....probably a month or two out and then a 4 or 5 inch exhaust a month or two after that. The 80 DD is a great tune and I would like to run that all the time but have no idea what margin to damage I may be running. Also, how do y'all use a high idle tune? Only in park to keep engine heat or condenser airflow good? I do not have a pto or anything so what is an 1100 rpm setting good for? Any input is appreciated, even the kind where people harrass me for getting a chip before gages or exhaust. I wanted to do it right....it just happened this way.
By the way....I did use th 120 Race tune for an "off the line" test.....awesome response with minimal smoke that dissapated almost immediately, the tires spun all the way through first. I can't wait to get the exhaust and gages

 

Just run the daily driver tune and try to keep your foot out of it. The EGTS are only going to climb if you romp on it. The high idle is good for warm ups on cold days or long idle periods to prevent wet stacking.

 

Run your 80 no problem as long as you drive normal. Don't drive like a young kid with a new toy and you should be fine. The 120 tune can get hot faster than you think, I wouldn't play with that anymore. The tunes may not be the thing to get you too hot, you never know if you have a leak somewhere and you could be running abnormally high temps and never know it. Get at least a Pyro ASAP!

 

high idle is to warm your truck up quickly or if you need to give someone a jump. I have a chip and no gauges to monitor pyro (egt's) with on a mainly stock truck and drive around in 140hp all day. From what I've gathered it all depends upon how hard the truck is working in those tunes ie: towing or uphill traveling or flat ground and no towing? I'm the latter so have no real worries.

 

Assuming your engine is in fair working order with no issues...
Set it in 80 DD and don't worry. You can stand on it as often as you like, you'll likely hit the speed limiter before the EGTs become a concern.

I don't have the 120 tune on any of my trucks so I have no idea how they perform but I do have the 80 P calibration on a couple of trucks and EGTs are not a concern in either vehicle. (both with 3.5" exhaust systems)

 

what's a speed limiter, like a governor?

 

yeah, the truck is limited @ 92mph by the pcm

 

flavo....so if it is in the PCM and the PMT1 overwrites my NVK4 PCM, is there a chance my pcm may not have speed limiter now? I really wonder but don't want to try.

 

I've been to 100, truck's odometer and not the scan gauge. I guess the chip over rides that feature?

 

The limiter can be changed with modified calibrations. I asked for mine to remain at OEM settings. I have no desire to drive faster than 95 mph in any of my trucks. I have other vehicles for that sort of thing.

 

there's some thing else besides a turbo charged 7.3 F250 Powerstroke? I just tried it once, just to see if she'd make it. You couldn't even tell she was running, she was very smooth and achieved that speed with ease. I was not surprised, I expected those results in all honesty.

I didn't know about the governor until just now.

 

That value depends completely on the PCM code with quite a few actually being much lower than that. In addition, there's not a "set" speed limit but a calculated engine output torque value based on road speed. The torque is lowered until the truck "powers-out" basically. That's why these trucks will accelerate to within a few miles per hour of the set speed and then just hover there. It's not like driving a mid-90's gasser that pretty much shuts off at whatever speed and then restarts a few miles per hour slower.....wash, rinse, repeat.

Anything other than the 0-HP rated calibrations are not going to have a speed limiter with his particular tuning.

 

Gotcha

In that case I would like to change my comment about reaching the speed limiter before EGTs become an issue.

When using my 80hp settings and WOT, I usually have to back out of the throttle due to speed or road/traffic conflicts before EGTs reach an uncomfortable level. I usually drive around in the 65hp settings most of the time since wheel spin is a little bit of an issue in the 80hp settings.

 

I'm in unfamiliar territory here so please bare with me as I have a few questions, but how does that work? at what torque does she shut off? is it a constant set torque she can reach at varying speeds or does the torque level in which she cuts off at vary with the speed? how does the truck calibrate the torque based on what speed?

 

Arbitrary numbers (since I'm on "the internet computer" and not on one of the two "work computers" and there's no sense in powering up either one for this example):

Vehicle Speed------Torque Output

88 MPH ----------100%
90 MPH ----------50%
92 MPH ----------30%
Anything more----0%

Vehicle speed is an input to the PCM and the PCM calculates torque output. The 7.3L in the 99-03 trucks doesn't "shut off". It just makes less power until the vehicle reaches terminal velocity.