1990 e4od not going in overdrive
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Prairieville, La
1990 e4od not going in overdrive
I have a 1990 f150, 2wd, 5.8, with 3:08 rear gear. 171,000 miles
The truck has been running great. I put my bf goodrich 31x10.5x15 tires all the way around on monday. When I drove out of the shop, my RABS light came on. It stayed on all night. The next morning, it went out and has not been on since.
Yesterday I drove about 200 miles and all was well. Overdrive was as it should be. Today I was hitting 2200 rpms at 53 mph. I could not get the od to engage.
I spoke to a friend and he thinks it is the shift solenoid due to the od light not flashing. I checked fluid and it is very clean. It is not low on fluid either.
I pulled the codes with the engine running and got a 12, 74, and 65.
Any ideas? If it is the solenoid, is it replaceable by dropping the pan or is it a full tear out?
The truck has been running great. I put my bf goodrich 31x10.5x15 tires all the way around on monday. When I drove out of the shop, my RABS light came on. It stayed on all night. The next morning, it went out and has not been on since.
Yesterday I drove about 200 miles and all was well. Overdrive was as it should be. Today I was hitting 2200 rpms at 53 mph. I could not get the od to engage.
I spoke to a friend and he thinks it is the shift solenoid due to the od light not flashing. I checked fluid and it is very clean. It is not low on fluid either.
I pulled the codes with the engine running and got a 12, 74, and 65.
Any ideas? If it is the solenoid, is it replaceable by dropping the pan or is it a full tear out?
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Postmaster
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From: Prairieville, La
I did the key on and engine off. It gave a code of 92 twice. I also found a blown fuse for the stoplights. I did the other test with the engine running and only came up with a 65 code this time. I have not been able to drive the truck on open road yet. The wife was in a multi car pileup this morning. She is okay so far, just unsure of the brand new cars status.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
If the Code 92 appeared in the KOEO tests the definition is: Shift solenoid 2 circuit failure (E4OD).
If Code 92 was from CM: HEGO switching detected always rich.
Given the symptoms it does appear like a solenoid or wiring problem. Not uncommon for the solenoid pack connector to fill up with moisture/dirt/etc. and cause a problem.
I hope your day goes better! ouchies....
If Code 92 was from CM: HEGO switching detected always rich.
Given the symptoms it does appear like a solenoid or wiring problem. Not uncommon for the solenoid pack connector to fill up with moisture/dirt/etc. and cause a problem.
I hope your day goes better! ouchies....
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Prairieville, La
So should I clean the connections or replace the solenoid. I have access to a lift and the ability to open the transmission from the pan. Is this a regular repair? I have the ability to give it a try and if needed to replace the transmission. This is my work truck. It is not about value, but more about need, replacement would be better than new truck note, especially after today.
To top it all off, today was her birthday.
To top it all off, today was her birthday.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
you should inspect the solenoid pack plug for any damage.repair if needed.
(search google: e40d repair harness. you would need the early pre -95 if you see bare wires.)
next would be to clean the pins with electrical cleaner if the plug looks fine.clear codes,go for a drive.see if problem is resolved.
then,if symptoms persist; here is a post that will help you in testing the solenoid;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12906446
^ the above post applies for gas or diesel e40d's.so don't worry there.
your code 92 makes it sound very promising!
mines currently in the shop getting a complete hd reman due to the loss of od too.however mine wasn't due to a code 92.
clearly a mechanical failure so says the large amount of bright aluminum in the floor of my pan.
(search google: e40d repair harness. you would need the early pre -95 if you see bare wires.)
next would be to clean the pins with electrical cleaner if the plug looks fine.clear codes,go for a drive.see if problem is resolved.
then,if symptoms persist; here is a post that will help you in testing the solenoid;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12906446
^ the above post applies for gas or diesel e40d's.so don't worry there.
your code 92 makes it sound very promising!
mines currently in the shop getting a complete hd reman due to the loss of od too.however mine wasn't due to a code 92.
clearly a mechanical failure so says the large amount of bright aluminum in the floor of my pan.
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From: Prairieville, La
Thanks for the link. I will be trying these out.
Here are some pics of the wifes car. About a month ago she had her first ever wreck. She was at fault and it resulted in her 2005 mustang convertible being totalled. We replaced it 3 weeks ago with a 2013 vw beetle convertible 50's edition. This morning at 10 to seven she called upset about brakes not working and a big pile up on the road.
Turns out that a coke 18 wheeler had no brakes and used her and 6 other autos to stop. I do not want this car back. It has under 500 miles on it and cost way to much to have a repair like this done. I am not sure what the outcome will be, but I am looking for total replacement with the same style car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538501432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538501432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/cajun_croc/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538502140/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538502140/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/cajun_croc/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8537395501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8537395501/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/cajun_croc/, on Flickr
Here are some pics of the wifes car. About a month ago she had her first ever wreck. She was at fault and it resulted in her 2005 mustang convertible being totalled. We replaced it 3 weeks ago with a 2013 vw beetle convertible 50's edition. This morning at 10 to seven she called upset about brakes not working and a big pile up on the road.
Turns out that a coke 18 wheeler had no brakes and used her and 6 other autos to stop. I do not want this car back. It has under 500 miles on it and cost way to much to have a repair like this done. I am not sure what the outcome will be, but I am looking for total replacement with the same style car.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538501432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538501432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/cajun_croc/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538502140/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8538502140/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/cajun_croc/, on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8537395501/http://www.flickr.com/photos/cajun_croc/8537395501/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/cajun_croc/, on Flickr
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From: Prairieville, La
Just wanted to let you guys know,so far all is working fine. I am driving 65 most of the morning and only running 1800 rpms. Time will tell. Thanks for the help and the link guys.
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From: Prairieville, La
To be honest, I do not know. I started thinking about the codes that it threw. I had replaced the tps already when I first got the truck. The number 2 spark plug was about to fall out of the hole a few days ago. I had also pulled my old truck to my dads place a couple of weeks ago which resulted in a blown fuse making the truck lose overdrive. This time the fuse that blew was different but was related to the transmission.
My power window motor was also bad, so I replaced it. Before that, if you hit the window switch it would cause the blower motor to slow down on the truck.
I figure after all of these things being fixed, it would be best to clear the codes and start over. So far, all is well. If it comes up again I will look into replacing the solenoid. I am going to take the solenoid plug off tomorrow to clean and inspect anyway.
If you can think of anything to add, let me know.
On another note, are e4od's the same through the years? My truck is a 90 and I may have found a 94 e4od that is built with all the improvements made to it. I was told that if the neutral safety switch looks different than mine, that it will not work with my truck.
My power window motor was also bad, so I replaced it. Before that, if you hit the window switch it would cause the blower motor to slow down on the truck.
I figure after all of these things being fixed, it would be best to clear the codes and start over. So far, all is well. If it comes up again I will look into replacing the solenoid. I am going to take the solenoid plug off tomorrow to clean and inspect anyway.
If you can think of anything to add, let me know.
On another note, are e4od's the same through the years? My truck is a 90 and I may have found a 94 e4od that is built with all the improvements made to it. I was told that if the neutral safety switch looks different than mine, that it will not work with my truck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
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From: Kentucky
There were many updates made to the E4OD. The 1994+ are the ones to look for. Ford changed the MLPS connector design, I also think this applies to the solenoid pack connector too, in 1995. You can retrofit the newer design MLPS onto a 1994 and older truck. The old design is no longer available.
Ford also changed the location of the protection diodes from the solenoid pack inside the transmission to the PCM. These diodes prevent the voltage spike created when deactivating a solenoid in the solenoid pack from damaging the driver transistors in the PCM. If you are trying to use a 1995 and newer transmission in a 1994 and older vehicle you have to swap the older design solenoid pack onto the newer transmission. Failure to do so results in no protection for the driver transistors.
Using a 1994 and older transmission, with the older design solenoid pack, in a 1995 and newer vehicle will result in two sets of protection diodes. One set in the PCM, the other on the solenoid pack. It is unclear if the this setup lowers the impedance enough to do long term damage. Best advice, use the solenoid pack designed for the PCM in the vehicle.
Ford also changed the location of the protection diodes from the solenoid pack inside the transmission to the PCM. These diodes prevent the voltage spike created when deactivating a solenoid in the solenoid pack from damaging the driver transistors in the PCM. If you are trying to use a 1995 and newer transmission in a 1994 and older vehicle you have to swap the older design solenoid pack onto the newer transmission. Failure to do so results in no protection for the driver transistors.
Using a 1994 and older transmission, with the older design solenoid pack, in a 1995 and newer vehicle will result in two sets of protection diodes. One set in the PCM, the other on the solenoid pack. It is unclear if the this setup lowers the impedance enough to do long term damage. Best advice, use the solenoid pack designed for the PCM in the vehicle.
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From: Prairieville, La
Thursday evening, I met my friend at his shop and put the truck on a lift. It has been running great with no real issues.
I went to a transmission supply house and bought a rebuilt shift solenoid, filter, and a soft shift correction kit.
The fluid was bright red, no shavings, and all intact. The transmission looked to have never been opened. We installed the kit, replaced the solenoid, and installed the new filter. It is running perfect. I have driven 300 miles in the last two days and am very happy. I feel much better after seeing the inside of the transmission.
One other thing, my friend told me to get the gaskets for the valve body. I am very glad he did. They were very brittle. If you ever drop the valve body, get the gaskets.
Total for everything was 200 smackers. Money well spent to prevent any future flareups.
I went to a transmission supply house and bought a rebuilt shift solenoid, filter, and a soft shift correction kit.
The fluid was bright red, no shavings, and all intact. The transmission looked to have never been opened. We installed the kit, replaced the solenoid, and installed the new filter. It is running perfect. I have driven 300 miles in the last two days and am very happy. I feel much better after seeing the inside of the transmission.
One other thing, my friend told me to get the gaskets for the valve body. I am very glad he did. They were very brittle. If you ever drop the valve body, get the gaskets.
Total for everything was 200 smackers. Money well spent to prevent any future flareups.
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From: Prairieville, La
They need to remove the top and re install it to make the repairs. They also want to blend the paint and use aftermarket parts.
We did not buy a brand new car to have over 10,000 dollars damage. We want full replacement value. We had to get a lawyer.
We had the car for three weeks, they have had it that long now and we will be without for quite awhile.