My 06 has been getting hard to start and will buck and jerk when pulling a trailer at 65-70 going up a hill. If I just push harder on the throttle, it'll boost up, but it will buck and jerk. It'll also push boost past 30 psi. If I completely let off the throttle and hammer down, it will not do this. I was thinking that it was related to my mystery coolant loss. I do not see any puddles under the truck. I do however see coolant leaking out of the cap, but I do not think it is enough to be using a gallon a week... I could be wrong. What could be my issue here? I just sent out my FICM to ed to get repaired and the atlas 40 put on it. My average mpg has been suffering and is down to about 13 highway at 70 with cruise on, unloaded.

 

I also have the blue spring installed and am using rotella t 5w40 oil. So I do not know if this is engine related or trans related. There are no codes in the computer. What should I do/ look for?

 

Do you have any gauges that read live data like scan gauge II? And have you had to add coolant and if so did you fill it past the min mark on the degas bottle? Have you replaced the degas cap? Does it only show signs of wetness on the degas bottle after you have been towing hard?

 

<p>Also are your hard starts when the engine is cold or hot?</p> Have you pulled and cleaned your EGR valve and if so was there moisture on it or in the intake?

 

I see moisture on it after towing and after driving hard. I have replaced the cap. Hard start is when cold and it would puff black smoke and idle rough for a few seconds. I have not pulled the egr valve. The only thing I have to read live data is my OTC scan tool.

 

I just got my truck bak today from the shop.they did a oil cooler and egr cooler. While they were replacing those they found that my heater hose tat had a sensor on it was leaking onto my exhaust causing me to lose a half gallon a week. I thought it was my egr cooler. You might want to check that area. I never had any puddles under my truck.

 

I'm going to pull the valve tonight to see if it is carboned up. Sounds like it could be my issue that I've been dealing with all along

 

I agree with a potential egr cooler failure. This is potentially, a classic case where they can split open when the oil coolers fail due to sediment build up on the coolant side.
This extreme heat created, can split open the egr cooler which allows coolant directly into the intake. If not resolved early, hydrolock can occur, bent connecting rods/pushrods, etc.
Pull your egr valve and look for wetness as a sure sign.

 

This is down in the EGR housing. There is damp soot in the lower portion. Looking like a blown EGR cooler to me...

This is the valve itself. Its pretty dirty, but i have seen worse

Another shot

Well, what do you guys think?

 

Anyone think I found my coolant leak?

 

I'd say you have.

 

Yepper i'd say so. Looks like you will be doing an EGR cooler and oil cooler. Lets hope the head gaskets are ok. And since you will have everything taken apart it is a most excellent time to do your STC fitting on the HPOP if it has not been done.

 

Well I have the studs, Ford MLS head gaskets, egr delete, oil cooler and other things to go on it. Was just hoping that I didn't have to do it so soon...

 

You need some gauges for shure

Boost past 28psi is asking for trouble

Knowing the oil cooler condition would be a Bonus here as the Gooey Blackstuff in the EGR Valve could be from Poor Combustion in addition to coolant Loss

If the egr cooler does leak its only a Pinhole (Plus you didnt say the Magic word "White Smoke")

If I had to guess
#1with Boost Over 30 psi
#2 Coolant getting Pushed out the CAP
#3 No Mention of White Smoke (what you would have with EGR Cooler Fail)

Id say your HeadGaskets Are Gone or Really the OEM Bolts have stretched

The Sensors that control turbo need Checked and turbo May need to be Clean since your Overboosting

The thermostat needs checked or replace since its cheap and your Going Deep

The Intake manafold needs cleaned along with the IAT2--MAP--EBP sensor