When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
From a structural standpoint is it safe to run screws into the hitch to mount aux backup lights? With the flatbed theres no where to really mount lights that wouldnt stick out so was debating just screwing them into the hitch but wanted to make sure it wouldnt comprimise the hitch first.
From a structural standpoint is it safe to run screws into the hitch to mount aux backup lights? With the flatbed theres no where to really mount lights that wouldnt stick out so was debating just screwing them into the hitch but wanted to make sure it wouldnt comprimise the hitch first.
That horizontal square tube is a torsion bar. If you drill into it, you may weaken its ability to carry its full rated load. At one time, the hitch manufacturers had a notice about this on a sticker on the hitch and in the installation instructions. Drilling into it will definitely void the warranty on the hitch.
Instead, use stainless steel worm clamps around the bar to hold your aux backup lights in place.
I took it as drilling holes into the frame of the receiver... Which would create concentration points for the moment that the receiver was not designed for.
I took it as drilling holes into the frame of the receiver... Which would create concentration points for the moment that the receiver was not designed for.
I'm not an engineer, so correct me if I'm wrong - but it seems like so long as we're talking about a small hole (1/4" or less) and the correct size and grade of bolt/screw were used then stress wise, wouldn't it still act as one continuous plate? I would think the weight of the light would be negligible wouldn't it?
I'm not an engineer, so correct me if I'm wrong - but it seems like so long as we're talking about a small hole (1/4" or less) and the correct size and grade of bolt/screw were used then stress wise, wouldn't it still act as one continuous plate?
Sounds like plenty of good reassons not to in my book, Ill wait untill I get the winch bumper/mount or devise some other method. Need to get my switch panel made/installed first anyways and for the record I can guarntee you the bolts would never match the rating of my class V hitch.
I am SURE that screw is not going to be rated as strong as the hitch you are talking drilling into.......Now does it make sense?
Originally Posted by thomabb
No. And I am an engineer.
Ok, fair enough. But I'm curious, can you explain why? For example, the tensile strength of plain carbon plate steel (assuming the hitch is carbon steel) is between 58 and 80,000 psi, a grade 8 bolt has a tensile strength of 150,000psi. And just to be clear, I was assuming as Senix was that we were hypothetically drilling into the 1/8" flat plate steel of the upper frame, not the square tubing of the hitch itself.
How about this as an alternative: Make a bracket that would mount using one of the existing frame mounting holes (sitting on the outside of the hitch, not against the frame) and bolt it up - using a longer bolt (of the same strength) if necessary and then mounting the light on that bracket?
Good idea but after something that is controlled by switch vs reverse lights as I only want them on when needed vs everytime I reverse (currently have cheapie parts store mini fog lights, plan on adding some LED offroad lights to the headache rack)
Filling the hole with a bolt will not alter the effects of the hole in tension. The bolt is not actually joined to the surounding metal. For basically the same reason, the bolt will not help with fatigue due to flex.
Let's use a Twizzler for a demonstration. Take one straight out of the package and stretch it until it breaks. Take another one and drill a small hole through it, then stretch it until it breaks. It will take less force to snap, and will likely fail at the hole. Now take another, drill a small hole, then affix a small bolt through the hole. Stretch it until it breaks. Which one of the three was stronger? Did the third Twizzler break at the bolt?
The structure of the hitch is designed to take more load than it is rated for. The rating takes into account a safety factor. A couple small holes does not automatically mean structural failure, but you are eating into your safety factor.
And Calc II killed a part of me too. That part of my brain is still numb on cold mornings.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.