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Hi guys, I have a 1990 Ford Bronco. It has the 351W. I just purchased a new 75 amp alternator two days ago. I also just purchased a new duralast battery 8 months ago.
Now to my problem. When I trun the A/C on, the volt meter will shoot all the way to the O in N-O-R-M-A-L. IF I just turn on my headlights it will go to the R. If I just put my truck in gear, it will also go to the R. If I turn on the A/C, turn on my lights, and put my truck in gear it will go to the N. If I step on the gas (1200-1500 R.P.M.) it will move the gauge up just a tad. THis tells me the alternator is working. Correct? So can someone please tell me what my problem is. I don't want to drive my truck like this!!!!
THANKS IN ADVANCE FOR ALL THE GREAT HELP!!
P.S. With all the power sccessories off, just the truck running, it will sit steady at the M or A!!
I think this is what they call a "flaming alternator" (G-2). It uses the push on connector for the main power feed wire. If it is, this sounds normal. I converted miy 89 Bronco to a G-3 alternator (140amps) (94 Mustang GT) it solved my problem. Did you put on a new connector? It is reccomended by the manufactor as the old connector will build heat as the resistance increases, and maybe flames! There are plenty of articles around the web for the conversion. You might want to check it out.
The alternator your refering to is a 2G model. It has to be one of the junkiest designs built. The output terminals get hot over time and melt the plastic or in some cases i've seen burst into flames.
The company I work at, sells conversion kits for the 2Gs.
I'ts a rectifier that changes the two large terminals into a 1/4" stud. But I only do this conversion when people don't want to spend the money on a new 3G.
Anyway, The conversion from a 2G to a 3G is not hard at all, the alternator should bolt right up with no problems. Now the wires, the 2G has two plugs one with the output terminals and one with three smaller terminals. If memory serves me good, cut off the output plug and take the two larger wires should be about 10ga. or so and crimp on an eylet. The other plug should have Ign. Sense, and Light. Cut the plug and crimp on new conectors that snap into the 3G pigtail. That shopuld be about it. Someone may correct me on something cause I may have missed some details, Lack of sleep for a couple day can really mess someyone up.
Good luck bro.
Hi, guys I have one more question. I think I can figure out the problem!! The volt meter, what does it measure? Does it measure what the battery is putting out? Or does it measure what the alternator is putting out. I, think it measures what the battery is putting out, correct? Please tell me what you think!! I appreciate your help>
No I can't because I've heard there are both kinds. I don't know what it will do. There's nothing to break though. You can just let the neg cable lay wherever. It won't hurt anything. Just don't do this with the positive cable
your engine is electronic controls DO NOT TAKE OFF BAT CABLES WHILE IT IS RUNNING. this was exceptable on non electronic controlled engines but not on yours. the arc could fry the electronics. i believ the gage reads batery drain not alt out put. not 100 % sure though.
I know, that's why I didn't want to do what he said. Don;t worry, i didn;t take any cables off. If anyone here knows, I would like to know what the voltmeter measures. Does it measure the battery voltage, or the alternator output!!
The alternator output IS the battery, so unless you have REALLY high resistance in the harness from the alt to the battery, they're always at the same voltage. The voltmeter measures the voltage from the cluster's film circuit (fed by whatever fuse it is) to the dash ground. If there's resistance in them (very common), then it won't show the true battery/alternator voltage.