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Its a vapor recovery system vent malfunction code. Maybe look to the solenoid, or its electrical connections. Not sure just where its located on your year/model, look in your repair manual, if you don't have one the AutoZone site might have a location in their repair section.
I picked up a used valve/canister from the junk yard today and put it on.(above spare tire) Tomorrow on the way to work we will see if that was the problem
Have a read here on this TSB. http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/03-20-03.pdf EDIT: BW did you remember to tighten the gas cap & or check its gasket to make sure it isn't damaged???? The system thinks there is a leak somewhere, cap, hose, vent not closing, wiring problem to the vent, preventing the computer close signal from reaching it, or even a computer problem
The computer is saying something is wrong with the vent solenoid circuit & that it is sensing a large vacuum leak. So from that to me it suggests that something electrical is wrong with the wiring to the vent solenoid, the solenoid itself, like its open all the time, maybe defective, or maybe not recieveng voltage from the computer to cause it to close because of a wiring problem, or maybe the computer has a problem creating or sending the close signal. Anyway at this point I'd not be inclined to go off on an engine tic/noise tangent & stay focused on what the trouble code suggests to look for. You say all of the hoses, fill tube & gas cap physically look ok, you havent reported smelling gas fumes, or hearing vacuum leak sounds, so that sorta narrows things down to the electricals operating the vent solenoid.
Hook your multimeter up to the vent solenoid & on a cold engine, have your helper turn the ignition switch to KOEO & see if the computer generated signal is getting to the vent solenoid. If not, work your way forward, checking wiring & connectors as you go & work your way all the way back to the firewall mounted computer electrical connector. If no vent solenoid voltage there, look to a connector pin/socket or computer problem. OR, you could cut to the chase & just back probe that connection first & work your way rearward!!!!
EDIT: Review the P0446 link in post 7, for whats likely wrong. At KOEO the ECM supplies B+ to the vent solenoid & the ECM ground switches the solenoid to cause it to operate. So if the B+ lead to the vent solenoid, or its ground wire back to the computer are corrupt, the solenoid isn't going to close, thus the system is gonna detect a big vacuum leak & the ECM is gonna get upset!!!!
The engine bay solenoid is called the charcoal canister purge valve. It's job is to open when we crank the engine for a cold start, so engine vacuum can suck the stored gas fumes out of the charcoal canister. Because the gas is already in vapor form, it'll ignite easier in the cylinder & thus give us faster cold starts.
The solenoid on the tank end is called the vent, its supposed to operate when we start the engine, so if you don't have a multimeter to test its coil to make sure it has continuity/not open circuit, or to see if the computer supplied B+ is reaching it at its electrical connector, or if the computers ground switching driver is ground switching the solenoids electrical load, so it'll close, listen to, or feel it when your helper goes to KOEO, to see if you can determine if its working. if its not working, then you'll have to begin a visable wiring inspection & or some voltage back probe testing as suggested above, to see whats going missing & where the problem is.
I used a 12v drill battery to "activate" the solenoid on the vent. I could hear it doing something. I can do the same to the purge valve.
Then I will have to check for battery voltage at the plug for each
I like your MacGyver, any port in a storm attitude, with the 12 volt drill battery, so you get an attaboy for innovation!!!! lol Keep us posted on your trouble shoot.
Another thought, if you don't have or can't come by a multimeter for some electrical testing, you could use a 12 volt test lamp, or rig one with some wire & a small lamp, or 12 volt LED, to test for power, or ground switching.