Engine component questions and a quick rear differential question
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Las Vegas
Engine component questions and a quick rear differential question
Hey guys got a 71 F250 Sport Custom Camper special. It has a 360 currently in it but looking to convert it to a 390. I have been told it needs new pistons, cam shaft, and headers. I am also going to be purchasing the edlebrock performer series manifold with the offroad carb. Many have told me to look into comp cams and I found this package:
Comp Cams K33-224-3 Comp Cams 'High Energy' Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts .
However I have no idea what I am looking at. I was told that a 9-9.5 compression is what I am going to want for a dd and trail rig. I was wondering if this package is a good deal. Also can someone point me into the direction of great headers.
Alright now the other question. I was wondering what came stock, in the department of rear differentials, for a 1971 Ford F250 Sport Custom Camper Special. I would check the codes out myself but my truck is in a different state being that I attend school out of state.
Any help is much appreciated guys!!
Comp Cams K33-224-3 Comp Cams 'High Energy' Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts .
However I have no idea what I am looking at. I was told that a 9-9.5 compression is what I am going to want for a dd and trail rig. I was wondering if this package is a good deal. Also can someone point me into the direction of great headers.
Alright now the other question. I was wondering what came stock, in the department of rear differentials, for a 1971 Ford F250 Sport Custom Camper Special. I would check the codes out myself but my truck is in a different state being that I attend school out of state.
Any help is much appreciated guys!!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Converting a 360 to a 390 requires a 390 crank and rods. Passenger car 390 pistons would help compression.
You said trail rig so I assume it is a 4x4. I suggest around a .490 to .520 lift cam
Headers? Long tubes like Hedman 89120 or shortys like Sanderson PN 427.
An F250 would have a Dana 60 rear axle.
Do more homework by reading the FE builds in this post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12739050
You said trail rig so I assume it is a 4x4. I suggest around a .490 to .520 lift cam
Headers? Long tubes like Hedman 89120 or shortys like Sanderson PN 427.
An F250 would have a Dana 60 rear axle.
Do more homework by reading the FE builds in this post: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12739050
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Junior User
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From: Las Vegas
I believe the link is a 390 crank with rods and lifters and etc.
And no sir just going to make her a pre runner for easy trails and desert fun. So same suggestion?
Which in your opinion is better shorties or long?
Thank you for the link I will be doing some research tonight at work X) haha
And no sir just going to make her a pre runner for easy trails and desert fun. So same suggestion?
Which in your opinion is better shorties or long?
Thank you for the link I will be doing some research tonight at work X) haha
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
I believe the link is a 390 crank with rods and lifters and etc.
And no sir just going to make her a pre runner for easy trails and desert fun. So same suggestion?
Which in your opinion is better shorties or long?
Thank you for the link I will be doing some research tonight at work X)
And no sir just going to make her a pre runner for easy trails and desert fun. So same suggestion?
Which in your opinion is better shorties or long?
Thank you for the link I will be doing some research tonight at work X)
That camshaft/timing chain linked above is fine. It's good to see it comes with valve springs.
Headers.. depends. Long tubes are better for low end torque but pre-runners tend to be higher RPM. You're in a dry climate so look into Flowtech long tubes headers (low buck too). The reason I make that distinction is that they're made of thinner metal and prone to corrosion in wet/snowy climates.
I picked up a set of Sandersons simply for ease of installation. Typically with long tubes, ya gotta jack the engine up on the passenger side to snake it in. Plus long tubes will trap the starter making it hard/harder to replace if needed.
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Junior User
Joined: May 2012
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From: Las Vegas
Well the truck will be coming to Flagstaff, Arizona so it will see a mix of snow and rain combined with the ice thinner stuff put down on the road.
The truck is ready to roll the only reason why I left it at home is that parking at the university is 500-600 bucks I believe. Figured it be better to just spend that money on parts. I thought buying another block was more expensive but I am not really sure? Does anyone else reading this have an idea?
The truck is ready to roll the only reason why I left it at home is that parking at the university is 500-600 bucks I believe. Figured it be better to just spend that money on parts. I thought buying another block was more expensive but I am not really sure? Does anyone else reading this have an idea?
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Junior User
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From: Las Vegas
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1967/72 F250 Dana 60 rear axle: 3.54-1 (scarce) / 3.73-1 & 4.10-1 (common) / Also available 4.56-1 & 4.88-1 (far less common).
AXLE code stamped on the Warranty Plate. If it begins w/a letter: Limited Slip / If w/a number: No Limited Slip.
AXLE ID tag located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing, but today...many of these tags are missing.
1968/76 F100/350 360/390 share the same block, the bore (4.05") is the same, the stroke is different: 360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78"
360 to 390 requires 390 crank, rods, pistons & rings.
On sale day, 360's magically become 390's! Measure the stroke to verify.
AXLE code stamped on the Warranty Plate. If it begins w/a letter: Limited Slip / If w/a number: No Limited Slip.
AXLE ID tag located under one of the bolts that retains the inspection cover to the housing, but today...many of these tags are missing.
1968/76 F100/350 360/390 share the same block, the bore (4.05") is the same, the stroke is different: 360 = 3.50" / 390 = 3.78"
360 to 390 requires 390 crank, rods, pistons & rings.
On sale day, 360's magically become 390's! Measure the stroke to verify.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Added dual exhausts, 4V manifold/carb from a 1966 T-Bird 428. Installed Cobra Le Mans valve covers, oval air cleaner.
Did the MPG improve? Of course not, but that wasn't my intention. Bought the truck new, owned it till 11/2009, when it went 'across the pond' to Sweden.
I also bought two new bumps, 1968 F250 Ranger 390/4 speed...a big mistake. Rowing that shifter back/forth in LA traffic wasn't pleasant. Truck totalled while parked at my gal pals house, T-boned by a drunk driver.
I didn't mourn, next day, I bought a 1971 F100 Ranger XLT 390/C6.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,762
Likes: 54
From: Antelope Valley ,CA
oh if 360 is running and driving then finding and building a 390 on the side is the smarter choice IMHO . i did this on my 68 swapped 360 with 390 in just a couple days by myself .
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Junior User
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From: Las Vegas
And on that note staying clear if flotech. I'm lost in the header department don't know exactly what to look for. I would but being that I can't drive the truck anyway thought might as well build up what I got ya know?
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
When you get to the time too do your engine build don't over look the fact that you'll be needing some head work like 1 hard valve seats into your heads which running
$7-$800 in most places. unless you can find a set of 1972-76 D2-D4 heads these were when the change started when unleaded gas came on the market. With out the harden seats the unleaded gas will slowly burn the exh. seat out. You can tell when is starting to burn them. Popping or coughing back out the carb as you our going up a hill and try to give it a little gas the truck will take a noise dive into a loss of power popping at the carb until to take your foot off the gas peddle. So at the cost of hard exh seats to your bucket list.. orich
$7-$800 in most places. unless you can find a set of 1972-76 D2-D4 heads these were when the change started when unleaded gas came on the market. With out the harden seats the unleaded gas will slowly burn the exh. seat out. You can tell when is starting to burn them. Popping or coughing back out the carb as you our going up a hill and try to give it a little gas the truck will take a noise dive into a loss of power popping at the carb until to take your foot off the gas peddle. So at the cost of hard exh seats to your bucket list.. orich