trailer hitch install
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Must be a REAL QUALITY One. Hope ypou are not towing over 5,000lb or 500lb tongue weight
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: Wichita Falls, TX
If you dont weld them on, someone forgot to tell draw-tite.
Class IV Weld-On Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese Draw-Tite Specialty Trailer Hitches 41990
Class IV Weld-On Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese Draw-Tite Specialty Trailer Hitches 41990
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
If you dont weld them on, someone forgot to tell draw-tite.
Class IV Weld-On Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese Draw-Tite Specialty Trailer Hitches 41990
Class IV Weld-On Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese Draw-Tite Specialty Trailer Hitches 41990
I would of swore we were talking about hitches that FIT these trucks?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
Instead of having a hole for the rivet clearance many hitches just have a gap there. In fact, I'd say most are designed that way, but I can see where just having a clearance hole would be stronger. How much stronger? Dunno.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 17
From: Central Indiana
Easy Peasy
on my recent post i asked about a trailer hitch and stuff. now that i know that how do i install it? i assume you just drill the holes where you need them but i have never done this before so there is no question to basic. the vehicle is a 92 f150 2wd reg. cab long bed if that helps. also you need grade 8 bolts to install it correct. do you have to remove the bumper hitch or not. thanks all
i assume you just drill the holes where you need them but i have never done this before so there is no question to basic. the vehicle is a 92 f150 2wd reg. cab long bed if that helps. also you need grade 8 bolts to install it correct. do you have to remove the bumper hitch or not. thanks allA 1/2'' corded drill, some sharp bits and some cutting fluid makes things easier. When drilling a big hole, start with something like a 1/8'' bit to make a pilot hole. Then maybe one more step before you go to the finished size. Don't forget to center punch your holes so the pilot bit doesn't wander. When you're drilling, wear goggles or a face shield to protect your eyeballs. Remember, safety first.
Also, a helper or some C clamps might make things easier when you are marking your holes and doing the final fit-up.
Ray
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Posting Guru
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If you dont weld them on, someone forgot to tell draw-tite.
Class IV Weld-On Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese Draw-Tite Specialty Trailer Hitches 41990
Class IV Weld-On Ultra Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver by Draw-Tite, Hidden Hitch and Reese Draw-Tite Specialty Trailer Hitches 41990
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2013
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If you buy a Reese, Curt or Drawtite hitch that was made for your truck, it will come with instructions and all the hardware you'll need.
A 1/2'' corded drill, some sharp bits and some cutting fluid makes things easier. When drilling a big hole, start with something like a 1/8'' bit to make a pilot hole. Then maybe one more step before you go to the finished size. Don't forget to center punch your holes so the pilot bit doesn't wander. When you're drilling, wear goggles or a face shield to protect your eyeballs. Remember, safety first.
Also, a helper or some C clamps might make things easier when you are marking your holes and doing the final fit-up.
Ray
A 1/2'' corded drill, some sharp bits and some cutting fluid makes things easier. When drilling a big hole, start with something like a 1/8'' bit to make a pilot hole. Then maybe one more step before you go to the finished size. Don't forget to center punch your holes so the pilot bit doesn't wander. When you're drilling, wear goggles or a face shield to protect your eyeballs. Remember, safety first.
Also, a helper or some C clamps might make things easier when you are marking your holes and doing the final fit-up.
Ray
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
I wouldn't even go so far as to call it "universal" fit - I usually think of that term for those multi-fit hitches that have telescoping arms and pins - clearly a last resort sort of hitch.
The "Weld-on Ultra Frame" hitch linked above is more of a DIY hitch where you just want to build your own custom hitch, perhaps for a custom application where a bolt-on doesn't exist.
The "Weld-on Ultra Frame" hitch linked above is more of a DIY hitch where you just want to build your own custom hitch, perhaps for a custom application where a bolt-on doesn't exist.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
Likes: 43
From: New York
So no spacers included either? Not a big deal, and it should be obvious, but typically the middle hole requires a ~1/4" spacer between the frame and hitch. In lieu of a spacer, a couple 1/8" thick fender washers could do the trick - you'll want some of those for the bolts any way -
might need to "D-shape" them to clear.
might need to "D-shape" them to clear.
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Posting Guru
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umm this might sound stupid but spacers for what? if you mean the rivets then the hitch has a dip or whatever you call it so that the hitch clears these. also is draw tite a quality hitch or not.
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Posting Guru
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i really hope your screwing with me. the reason it only has six holes is that when you put the bolts and washers on there i dont know that there would be enough room for another bolt on each side. also i dont know how much i will haul i have two choices i have a 12 ft double axle trailer or a 8 foot single axle trailer. i would prefer not to use the single axle as the previous owner left a 3 ton load of dirt on it and when i step on the trailer the leafs go flat and hit the shackles on the frame. which reminds me anyone know of a vehicle that has 43 INCH leaf springs i know they are long for a trailer but i dont have a welder to modifiy it right now. so anyway anyone know if this is a good hitch and will handle the weight or not.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
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From: New York
You'll see when you position the hitch in place that the center-most location doesn't touch the frame, and so a spacer is needed there between the frame and hitch to make a solid connection. It's possible that some hitches account for this in the frame design, but none I've seen.
DrawTite is a good enough hitch. It's probably one, if not THE most common one found out there.
DrawTite is a good enough hitch. It's probably one, if not THE most common one found out there.
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Posting Guru
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okay so.... there is a gap in the hitch in the middle but how am i supposed to get a spacer in there becuause there are nuts for the bumper bolts that fill the gap. if im supposed to take those off and put washers on the bolt im pretty sure the bolt will twist off
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,823
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From: New York
Just use common sense and make sure you're fastening all locations to sound, solid surfaces. You can NOT have any of the mounting locations with an air-gap between the frame and hitch.