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Fuel Prime

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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 09:20 PM
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Fuel Prime

I keep loosing the prime on my fuel system. Stock 49 F1 239.

It has the stock 94 carb with new carb kit installed.

One thing that I don't think is right is the fuel line from the pump to the carb.

It is a metal line and the part that threads into the carb does not look like it would seal.

On some pictures it looks like the carb has a piece of pipe that is threaded into the carb that would them have a rubber hose clamped to it.

What should it have?

I can not see any leaks up top.

It does look like it might have a leak at the tank in the shut off or fitting area. Could that be it?

Thanks Neal
 
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Old Feb 17, 2013 | 10:46 PM
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stock is a hard line from pump to carb.
you can check for seal and fiddlle with it a ton (I did), but all said and done I think you'll just end up living with it. I upgraded to an electric fuel pump when I had clogged line problems to death and that makes it easier to get prime, but the carb is leaking into the manifold after shutdown. (226 myself and holly 94 as well) I've changed the line to modern E-15 rubber compatible and it still does it. Changed the single gasket the PO left me to a wooden spacer - ford specs is 5 gaskets. Fought it for months... rebuilt carb twice tore apart carb to the float seals 3 times... now I just live with it
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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I ended up making a new metal line for mine 1/4" steel line one end uses a ferrule, compression type fitting other end flared i think.

Another thing i've learned on these flatheads is to not give them any gas to start, pull the choke and leave your foot off the gas. much better starting than pumping the petal.

I did put an electric pump on mine and use it a few seconds when the truck hasn't been started in a couple weeks. But run off the stock pump.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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If the problem is that there is no gas in the carb after sitting overnight (easily checked by looking down the carb while working the throttle), you likely have a leak at the power valve. The carb kits sold for 94s are usually really for Holley 2110's, a later version that is "almost" the same. One of the differences is the shape of the power valve seat. 2110's have a radius'd seat, 94s have a square seat. No amount of tightening will help. Vintage Speed and several other sources have the correct PVs.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 09:18 PM
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Thanks for the information on the PV's Ross.

My kit came with two PV's and I will have to check it and see if I got the right one installed.

I would like to fix the problem but if I have to I will put the electric Fuel pump on it too.

I just finished the temporary tail light and brake light so that I can take it out to have the glass replaced so that I can drive it as I keep working on the body.

Thanks everyone.
Neal
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 09:21 PM
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Is their fiber washer that go on the PV's or is it metal to metal?
Thanks Neal
 
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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First off, there aren't two PV's in the kit, one is a spark control valve. Similar but very different. The spark control valve has a cover over the diaphragm, the PV doesn't. The spark control valve isn't used on 94s, it is on 2100s and 2110s.

Most kits have fiber washers, the better ones are teflon or nylon.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 06:27 PM
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Thanks for the information Ross.

I will have to order the correct PV and see if that fixes my problem.


Thanks Neal
 

Last edited by WARDNEAL; Feb 19, 2013 at 06:45 PM. Reason: fix
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 07:58 PM
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You can easily test the PV's seal by taking the carb off, verifying that the fuel bowl is full of gas, and leaving it sit on the workbench overnight, on a newspaper. If the paper is soaked in the morning, there you go..
 
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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 08:22 PM
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I do have to make a small retraction. As soon as Ross posted the pic I was like what the heck, mine didn't look like that at all. I have a 847, not a 94..... oooops.

Don't clutter this thread with 847 advice, at least not until the OP gets his issue solved and declares original need closed.
 
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