Did your door ajar light and bell go off at random before you did this^^^^^^^

 

Yes, they both did. Also the alarm would go off at random, mostly at night, so I thought the drop in temperature was causing the lift gate latch sensor to move thus setting off the alarm.

With this sensor isolated my alarm is still going off at random.

 

Good to know, thanks!

-Rod

 

" Only a dealer can test it " Not true . An Independent with the proper scan tool can ck it . For instance , my Snap On Modis can do that . The proper tool , teamed with Mitchell , Alldata , Identifix , Can find most issues .team that with J2534 Reprogramming ability by Snap On , Launch , OTC , and others , Much is able to be done outside the dealer .

 

An Independent with the proper scan tool can ck it . For instance , my Snap On Modis can do that . The proper tool , teamed with Mitchell , Alldata , Identifix , Can find most issues .team that with J2534 Reprogramming ability by Snap On , Launch , OTC , and others , Much is able to be done outside the dealer .

OK thanks. I live in the south suburbs of Chicago, can anyone recommend a shop to run a scan.
Thanks

 

I had similar electrical issues with my '02 XLT. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the alarm would beep twice when I armed it. Recently all 4 windows stopped working. Most recently the driver door lock actuator stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 3 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ. I had to repair the pink/black wire to fix the driver door lock actuator.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Door Panel - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: How To: Fix the Door Ajar Problem - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: Door AJAR Switch Replacement on 2002XLT w/Photos - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

 

Thanks everyone, will give it a try and let you know. It maybe a while, my son is finishing up his HS wrestling, has a few more matches this week, then he's done for the season & I can get back to fixing this thing.
Thanks again, will keep ya posted.

 

Good luck with the fix!

 

I know its been a while, last spring I shimmed the DS lower hinge because it was wearing out and the door ajar light went off like it's suppose to. Now that it's cetting cold out, my door ajar issue is back. Something must be a tad off, expanding, etc, & here I am. Have taken the door panel off, sprayed the heck out of the latch w/ wd-40. We'll see if this works.
Does anyone know what the wire colors are for the door ajar sensor that is in the latch. Im thinking, just disconnect them, or splice them together and be done with this issue once and for all. I really don't need a light & bell to tell me the door is open. The car is 10 yrs old w/ 150k on it, so if the door aj is disconnected, who cares. Certainly not me. I just want to fix this once and for all.
Thanks in advance for the tips

 

My buzzer and door locks trigger randomly while driving and know it is the door ajar switch as I had someone fix it a ways back. Now it is going off again. I know where the switch is in the door but it is behind everything and only can be seen with a telescoping mirror. I know you take out the 3 screws from the door latch facing the outside but unsure what you have to unhook on the inside to switch out a new door ajar switch? Does anyone have a diagram or pics of inside the door and lock mechanism?

 

I just took the switch out. A few threads before this thread there are really good instruction on how to remove the trim panel. The instructions sure helped & made this job simple. The latch itself was fairly simple to remove. Remove three torx scrs on the i/s of the door as well as two scrs that hold a window guide, remove the guide. Disconnect the wiring harness, & the steel rods that attach to the latch. On one rod, you'll have to twist the latch a little. Once the latch assy is out, you'll have access to the door ajar sw.

I oiled mine & it is still sticking a little so will replace w/ one from the bone yard. Am hoping this is it. Plan to check all the other switches as well.

 

I had similar electrical issues with my '02 XLT. The dome lights would stay on until the battery saver feature turned them off, the accessory delay wasn't working, the driver side puddle light didn't work, the keypad on the door would set off the alarm when I pressed it, the door ajar light would flash and beep at highway speeds, the radio would shut off as soon as I turned the key off, the alarm would beep twice when I armed it. Recently all 4 windows stopped working. Most recently the driver door lock actuator stopped working.

A lot of electrical issues can be traced back to broken/damaged wire(s) in the boot between the body and the driver's door. I found 3 broken wires and repaired them. The thin black ground wire was broken and after repairing it all was back to normal. When the windows stopped working, I repaired the thick black ground wire and the windows now work like a champ. I had to repair the pink/black wire to fix the driver door lock actuator.

Here is the thread for removing the door panel: How To: Remove/Replace 3rd Gen Door Panel - Ford Explorer & Ranger Resource "Serious Explorations"®

Here is a great thread for checking for broken/damaged wires, thanks to synyster for this awesome write-up: How To: Fix the Door Ajar Problem - Ford Explorer & Ranger Resource "Serious Explorations"®

Unfortunately the pictures are no longer available in the above thread. IIRC, I believe I unwrapped the wires enough to gain access. When I have gone searching in there I had an idea of what wire I was looking for. I located the the wire I was looking for and gently tugged on that wire on the door side. The wire was pulled toward me and out of the harness. I then went inside the vehicle and gently tugged on the the wire I was looking for and was able to pull it inside the vehicle. I then spliced a length of wire to the 2 ends, completing the circuit. I then gently pulled the excess into the door.

Be sure to take your time when looking for broken/damaged wire(s). Check all the wires for breaks/damage. When you think you're done looking, look again, and again, and again. A bright flashlight can be very helpful.

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Could also be related to the door ajar switch.

Here is a great thread for checking/replacing the door ajar switch, thanks to borland for the awesome write-up: Door AJAR Switch Replacement on 2002XLT w/Photos - Ford Explorer & Ranger Resource "Serious Explorations"®

Hope this helps out.!

 

WD40 in the latches worked for me. Not a instant fix,mine took a few days before the WD worked its miracles.

 

I have the door aj switch out and am working wd-40 into it. Wiil let you guys know how it goes hepefully during the week. tks

 

Found the problem. DS door, the latch mechanism is not letting the switch plunger to fully extend and of course it's random occurance when cold weather sets in. So for a quick fix, I disconnected the DA switch from the latch and wire tied it to it's wiring harness. Now the computer thinks the door is always closed. Down the road I will go to the bone yard & buy a latch mechanism w/ low mikes.