Hey guys,
Kind of new to FE's, engines in general. I can do quite a bit of mechanic work, but never really gotten to engine internals. I have a 72 f250, with a 390. Its moderatly built (by the PO), and i want to build it some more/ learn about it. The problem im running into is really not knowing any specs on this engine. From what i know i have a 73 block with pre 64 heads because they were pre emissions. My question for you guys is if i gather the block and head casting numbers can you tell me a bit about them? I am trying to figure out all the specs i.e. cylinder volume, stroke length, valve spring height, everything. I want to be able to put this thing on a desktop dyno, and also figure out my compression ratio. I want to upgrade cam, lifters, rocker and arms, maybe pistons if i think i can get a better compression ratio(from what the PO told me its 10.5:1). Any help would be greatly appreciated! You guys will help me out with the start of the build, im afraid to jump into something i don't know much about. Not afraid of the build, just want to make sure i'm getting all the right parts to match up with what i already have.
Thanks,
Ashton

On a side note, i picked up a set of 390 Straight tube "zoomies". Never seen them for an FE, and for 25$ i couldn't pass it up. I'll post pictures when they are on, for recreational use only!

 

First off, 10.5 to 1 is about as high as you want to go on pump gas. My 428cj is 10.6 to 1 factory and she just makes it on todays 91 octane unleaded. Install a 428 crank for an instant 410 ci.

 

The block casting number will tell you almost nothing about it - but it can't hurt.

The head casting numbers are more important, but only to know what the starting point was. Almost any head can be setup to do almost anything once the engine has been "built".

The FE heads weren't screwed around with all that much for emissions, it was more ignition and compression changes. Even the newest D2TE-AA heads were a good overall performance head to begin with, and putting larger valves and doing some mild port work puts them in the same league as the Edelbrock aluminum heads.

Anyway, post up whatever casting numbers you have.

Oh, and beware, these guys will spend your money right out of your wallet

 

Thanks guys, i will get casting numbers today. I know the engine has been bored .30 over, but thats about all i know. I don't know if the valve's have been opened up, how much the heads have been milled, etc. I know the drive train is stock. cam, rockers, lifters, all stock. Crank is 390. I want to do the 428 crank, but it almost seems like its not worth it. I've heard people say that there are issues with it. Do i need the 428 pistons and connecting rods? I believe push rods are the same length?
Also, If i were to take the thing apart could i measure everything myself to see how much its been milled, as well as find out other sizes that may have changed, or is it better just to take it to a shop and have them figure it out?
Thanks again

 

With the 428 crank, you need 410 pistons. The 428 is a larger bore and not all 390s will take the overbore to that spec.

Lots of FE specs here. These are car motors. Later pickup motors were lower compression. Pickup 390s actually used the 410 piston, resulting in a piston down the hole about .110.

FE Series Engine Specification Chart

 

I am pretty sure i have the truck 390. were there certain years that they had the 410 pistons, or was it all of them? If that is the case would a 410 crank just fit right in with no machining? I will have some casting numbers within a couple hours.

 

Alright guys, i got the casting number from the heads. They are C4AE, and then it has 00608, or maybe 80900 depending on which way you read it haha. I couldn't find the block numbers, well i didn't look very hard to be honest. Figure i might ask you guys where to look first.
Thanks

 

HHAHAHAHAHAHAAA

Also- its never quite as easy as it sounds.
if you want to drop a 428 crank into a 390 block to get a 410, you'd need the corresponding flywheel. (The 410/428 are externally balanced).

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Well the 410 isn't a must, but it would be nice to do while i have the engine torn down. No point in doing it all twice. If i can have patience and find a gold deal, then awesome. I probably won't have the money or time to do the engine build until summer time, so plenty of time to look.
Anyone know how to tell exactly what heads i have? they are C4AE, but there were F, G, and H models. I don't think it had a letter at the end, but i will go out and check again.

 

well looking again i think the last set of numbers is 8090G, not 80900. So that must mean these are the "C4AE-G" heads, and from i read probably the least desireable with valve sizes of 2.03/1.56. what is the biggest port size i can get these to safely, to get them close to the CJ heads? and in your guys experience, since ive never had heads machined, how much would a job like this cost at one of your local machine shops?

 

Haha i keep posting on my own topic...
Another thing, i have flat top pistons. I am wondering how i am pulling a 10.5:1 compression with a .030 bore and the heads i have not having any known machining, how much would have had to have been milled to get this compression ratio?

 

C4AE 6090G, these are large port heads and can be ported pretty nicely, there are afew versions. One of which has a ridge in the top of the exhaust port. I dont care to mess with them, but there is nothing wrong with them in general. The intakes on later models wont love the port sizes.



Flattops, check the deck height with a micrometer or use a piece bar stock and feeler gauges. Car engine will be .10/.11 closer to the deck, if never milled.

Distributor hold down usually has a tag attached



Look over the oil filter adapter for casting numbers for the block, most likely has 352 cast in front right side just under head.

Date codes on the heads can be seen after removing the valve covers, directly inline with casting ID between plugs.

428 crank can be had through several vendors, i wouldnt pay more than 225 for one turned more than 20/20 maybe as much as 425 for a 0/0 good luck finding one. If just farting around, a crank turned .040 will probably work fine. Do your homework on buying one, dont just jump on the first one you see. Mic them check the journals OOR, nose OC and keyways, chamfers in journal edges should not be 90 degrees turns! Check the consistency of rod journal walls where the rods fit between them, there is a tolerance for end play, if poor it wont be a good crank to use.A basic 410 wont be much more than a 390 rebuild. Sell your 390 crank to someone to recoop some $

 

Thanks alot for all the info. Very helpful, this forum is great. Im still debating on the 428 crank, just don't think its worth it for a small budget. What would be a good cam/ good cam specs for a streetable performance engine? I already have an edelbrock streetmaster intake, but plan to go to performer rpm. Got a holley 600cfm. I plan on upgrading to MSD ignition box and distributor. Hoping to pull close to 400hp, is it do able with a cam, lifter, valve spring, upgrade? found a few kits online for just 3-400$.

 

Check out the FE board over here 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum if you can think it, it's been asked and answered probably hundreds of times, lots of great info can be had just using the search feature alone.

 

Just don't ask any newbie questions there or you'll be run out of town