? for the pro's

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May 30, 2003 | 08:58 AM

PrPlayboy

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From: New Canaan, CT

? for the pro's

I am having trouble wiring my remote turn on lead to the radio. I tried to wire it to the sub amps turn on lead but the amp shuts off when it detects a drop in volatage. I went to the radio because my L.O.C. has a turn on lead feature and I wired the L.O.C. to the radio two differant ways. One way was to the power wire (black W/pink stripe) and the other way was to the memory wire(yellow W/white).

Now here is whats puzzling me.
Does the Ford radio system detect voltage drops and shut it's self down for safty?

If I go with the memory wire to power the LOC, the LOC wont turn off the remote lead when it no longer recieves a signal. Could be a defective LOC but I'm not returning it.

If I go with the power wire so it will cut the power out when the radio turns off the radio will not work.
The LOC is not grounding out internal because it works with a constant power source.

It seems I am going to have to hook up the LOC to a differant power source but what sucks is with a differant power source, if i turn the radio off for what ever reason the amp will still be on and looking for a signal and will make a low rumbling noise. My main grip is that after having everything going smoothly i run into this so I am just wondering if it's a Ford thing or not.

May 30, 2003 | 09:39 AM

ExtremeF-150db

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? for the pro's

If I understand you correctly, you are using the stock head unit from Ford. Which unit is it and how many amps are you running. You can obtain the wiring diagrams for any stock unit off the web. If you are running one or two amps you should be able to use the remote out or sometimes called the power attn hot to your remote +. If you are running more amps you need to use a relay to turn the amps on... by running the remote power wire to the relay with a seperate 12volt source.
Now if your amps are going into protection (the green pwr LED usually turns red) then that is another issue. Amps that go into protection because of undervoltage or overvoltage have to do with battery/charging/grounding issues.
Hopefully I have pointed you in the right direction. If you message me and give me a more detailed discription of your problem I can probably help you.

ExtremeF-150db

May 30, 2003 | 10:37 AM

PrPlayboy

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From: New Canaan, CT

? for the pro's

I am using the stock radio because i have the audiophile with DVD system and factory sub. I will be running two amps but I am only hooking up one amp right now. I know how to run a separate power soure for a remote turn on but I am questioning the Ford system. Since i was hooking up the LOC anyway I was trying to use the radios power source but the minute it detects a volatge or extra currant draw the radio turns off. Its not a bigger fuse issue because they are not blowing. It seems as if its a protection feature for the stock system. The wire is hot until I put it to the amp then the radio shuts off turning the amp off as well unless i use the memory (constant) wire. If I use the constant wire I am ok but I'd rather use a separate constant power source then to take amparage from the radios power source.

May 31, 2003 | 11:14 PM

G. Martin

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? for the pro's

ok just a couple of questions

1. where do you have the LOC connected. It needs to be in the passanger rear, behind the panel under the big window, hooked to the output side of the factory amp.

2. In our shop we go to the accessory wire in the ignition harness for the turn on. Some of the factory amp turn on wires are not 12volts if you go to the ignition harness dont forget to fuse it.

Jun 2, 2003 | 04:03 PM

smokey6309028

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From: Pennsylvania

? for the pro's

I would take Martins approach as well. If i encounter a problem with an aftermarket remote turn on lead, ill just use an accessory lead. However, the accesory lead will ALWAYS turn your amps on when the car is started or in the ACC position.
If you want to control when the amps are turned on, buy a simple switch from radio shack or elsewhere, wire one end to battery power or to a constant power source which is fused, and run it to your amps. Just flip the switch when you want your amps on.

Jun 2, 2003 | 08:26 PM

PrPlayboy

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From: New Canaan, CT

? for the pro's

I think putting the LOC in the rear to the amp output might be to much dont ya think? It has always been my understanding that you should convert the signal as close to the radio as posible. I didn't think about going to the ingnition it's self. I was thinking of taping into the power window main switch so the amp will be on the same delay as the radio. I will look into the ignition tho so thanks for the tip but the LOC in the rear? I not clear on that can you explain why? I'm just saying if I was going that route I should just use the High input levels on the amp, correct?

Jun 2, 2003 | 10:14 PM

G. Martin

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? for the pro's

The LOC (Line out converter) is designed to take a speaker level (high voltage) in put, and convert it to a lower voltage signal that the amp can use. By connecting the LOC to the deck that is already a low voltage signal you are showing the deck an unstable signal which causes the deck to shut down to protect itself.

I know its a pain in the **** to remove that rear panel but thats the way we do it at the stereo shop I manage (I hate comebacks)
and yes we charge an extra hour labor to do this.

Besides when you install your 2nd amp you are going to have to go back there any way to bypass the factory amp.

Last edited by G. Martin; Jun 2, 2003 at 10:16 PM.