Injection pump woes
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 62
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I changed the pump when this all started happening. I finally got it to prime and START. Drove it about 5 miles filled up both tanks and headed home. Next morning Temp about 40 F It wont start. My Wait to start light never comes on. I always wait about 8-10 sec before cranking.
So i am thinking I either have a leak in the fuel lines and the fuel runs back to the tank. (Have not seen any leaks tho.) Or my glow plugs are not working.
Also when I plug in the forgot the name but the heater, it sounds like crackling. Is this normal?
So i am thinking I either have a leak in the fuel lines and the fuel runs back to the tank. (Have not seen any leaks tho.) Or my glow plugs are not working.
Also when I plug in the forgot the name but the heater, it sounds like crackling. Is this normal?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 4
From: 8600 ft in Colo
On my last truck, when I plugged in the block heater, I would hear it heat up. (about 1 second of crackling, similar to dropping a drop of water into a hot pan...)
On my current truck, I can't hear it.
On my current truck, I can't hear it.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,709
Likes: 4
From: 8600 ft in Colo
To me, it sounds like a combination of air intrusion & glow plugs not working. I'd start by verifying/repairing the glow plugs. The sticky threads at the top of this forum have everything you need to know about the GP system.
New User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14
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From: Crawfish Town
having the same issue, some glow plugs are bad , fss clicks and has proper power have good pressure at schrader, new lift pump. Cracked injector 1 and getting small drip. She cranks and comes so close to starting. Im gonna swap the plugs and pull the ip return line and see if theres fuel. Return lines look like crap so ordered new kit Any other suggestions? ???? Picked up truck from a farmer ran with full filter and killed when it emptied so i canged mechanical pump and put fressh 1000cca batteries. Plan on replacing cables too they look like crap. I would imagine cold start in south louisiana where its already 70+ deg shouldnt be too difficult? my first diesel btw
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
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jeepers, kick off your boots and read awhile in this forum - you'll learn a lot 
the most common issues you'll have relate to bad glow plugs if they aren't motorcraft, and air getting into the fuel lines when it sits overnight - we call this air intrusion. if you have good glow plugs but you have air intrusion, you'll turn the key, wait for the plugs to warm up, it'll fire right up for a couple seconds, then it'll stall and you'll crank it till the batteries are almost dead before it comes to life again.
with good fuel and no glow plugs working, you may notice the WTS light not staying on for as long as it should, or otherwise acting funny, but you may not. in any case, it'll crank and feel like its trying to start, but just not come to life. read the stickies at the top of this forum to learn what you're looking at and how to test them and everything. feel free to post a new thread when you have questions from there
the most common issues you'll have relate to bad glow plugs if they aren't motorcraft, and air getting into the fuel lines when it sits overnight - we call this air intrusion. if you have good glow plugs but you have air intrusion, you'll turn the key, wait for the plugs to warm up, it'll fire right up for a couple seconds, then it'll stall and you'll crank it till the batteries are almost dead before it comes to life again.
with good fuel and no glow plugs working, you may notice the WTS light not staying on for as long as it should, or otherwise acting funny, but you may not. in any case, it'll crank and feel like its trying to start, but just not come to life. read the stickies at the top of this forum to learn what you're looking at and how to test them and everything. feel free to post a new thread when you have questions from there
New User
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14
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From: Crawfish Town
thxs josh and ive beeeeeeeeeeeeeen reading lol (feel like Johnny5 must have input lol) thats how I sorted out all the things already Glow plugs are next and Ive already got the old ones marinating with a few sprays of pb just didnt know if I was overlooking something and there was no definitive answer to how much fuel the ip would be putting out with the line cracked Ill get some pics up vfelix
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Thread Starter
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Cross-Country
Joined: Jan 2013
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replaced glow plugs and the gpr. 1st start the WTS light came on. Then it never comes on anymore. I think Its toast. Any hew, I keep getting a hiccup and it stalls right after it starts. then i drain the battery trying to start. Any suggestions?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Sweet home Alabama
To both of you, Replace the return lines don't just get rubber tube and call it a day you HAVE to buy the kit, And well your at it if you have the funds change out the injectors well its apart the "Diesel store" has good prices a lot cheaper then the local stores but go to the parts store and buy a diesel manual Hanes? It has older chevy and Ford diesels in it but its really a very detailed hand book (A must have)As well as this site ))
If you get ANY air in the system they are a bitch to start,Also look around the fuel filter there is a heater on the top you'll see a stud sticking up make sure its dry around it very common for it to leak! Check all fuel lines if hard or cracked replace them all! Once you get them running right you'll love it! But the fuel system has to be up to snuff, Have you changed the fuel filter?
Also make sure you have more the a 1/4 tank there's a pickup in the tank that breaks off so you may at some point want to drop the tank and just add a rubber hose and chuck the shower head.
If you get ANY air in the system they are a bitch to start,Also look around the fuel filter there is a heater on the top you'll see a stud sticking up make sure its dry around it very common for it to leak! Check all fuel lines if hard or cracked replace them all! Once you get them running right you'll love it! But the fuel system has to be up to snuff, Have you changed the fuel filter?
Also make sure you have more the a 1/4 tank there's a pickup in the tank that breaks off so you may at some point want to drop the tank and just add a rubber hose and chuck the shower head.
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
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d-driver, you have a classic case of air intrusion. do the return line kit as kobalt suggested, that solves the problem most of the time. just a few tips on that - LUBRICATE the o-rings and all connections before assembly. if you don't, you'll damage at least 2 o-rings during the install, and you'll be no better off than when you started. also, be sure to use the hose and clamps found in the kit, don't try using screw-type hose clamps, as they don't work well in these small sizes, and would cause more leaks.
before i added an electric lift pump, i suffered from air intrusion, and i found that the only way i could start it without running my batteries totally dead was to work in this exact sequence: turn key, wait for plugs to warm up, fire up, stall, crank for 30 seconds solid without breaks, go drink coffee for 5 minutes as the starter cools down, resume cranking without waiting for the glow plugs to warm up, and after about 30 seconds on this second round, it'll suddenly roar to life.
obviously thats not the best thing for the starter or the batteries, not to mention your pride as friends/neighbors ask if you need help...
air intrusion is a frequent battle on these rigs, which is why many of us use an electric lift pump, as it primes the system and hides all symptoms of air intrusion, specifically the hard starting
before i added an electric lift pump, i suffered from air intrusion, and i found that the only way i could start it without running my batteries totally dead was to work in this exact sequence: turn key, wait for plugs to warm up, fire up, stall, crank for 30 seconds solid without breaks, go drink coffee for 5 minutes as the starter cools down, resume cranking without waiting for the glow plugs to warm up, and after about 30 seconds on this second round, it'll suddenly roar to life.
obviously thats not the best thing for the starter or the batteries, not to mention your pride as friends/neighbors ask if you need help...
air intrusion is a frequent battle on these rigs, which is why many of us use an electric lift pump, as it primes the system and hides all symptoms of air intrusion, specifically the hard starting
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,560
Likes: 1
yes, an inline electric fuel pump made for diesel fuel. the best one out there is the facet duralift, but its kinda hard to find. carter also makes a good one. don't buy the mr gasket one or you'll be replacing it every week.
note that you must not run with your e-pump pushing fluid through your mechanical pump all the time, so most people who go electric remove the mechanical pump and just put a plate over its hole in the block.
but some of us set it up with the electric pump pushing through the mechanical, but wired such that the pump only runs on a momentary switch to prime the system. thats how mine is, and i'm happy with it. i can give you details on how i wired it up if you choose to go this way
note that you must not run with your e-pump pushing fluid through your mechanical pump all the time, so most people who go electric remove the mechanical pump and just put a plate over its hole in the block.
but some of us set it up with the electric pump pushing through the mechanical, but wired such that the pump only runs on a momentary switch to prime the system. thats how mine is, and i'm happy with it. i can give you details on how i wired it up if you choose to go this way
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,389
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From: Mi'kma'ki
