Hey all. Check engine light has been off & on this last week or so. I can almost always set it by accelerating moderately/heavy in any gear and also when I de-accelerate off the highway. Terrible gas mileage and a noticable loss of power when it comes on. I stopped by the "Zone" and they pulled the codes 14 & 19 and told me that the computer was on it's way out. Code 14 is the PIP signal(ignition pickup) showing an erratic/shorted signal, and their printout show'd control module prices and also listed prices for the computer itself. They didn't explain code 19, but my Chilton's( I know, worthless book)said a failure/internal shortage in the computer itself. Chilton's also said that a code 19 would always be set if the computer lost power, such as disconnecting the battery, which I have done several times in trouble shooting/changing things. So anyway, I bought a new control module(not at the zone, motorcraft$$), put new plugs,cap, rotor, reset the timing, checked the hoses, wiring for any signs of shorts, reset the computer and that morning it ran good. But it came back on later that night, so I took it back to the "Zone" and they pulled code 14 again and a new one, code 22, which is a bad Map Sensor. I'm going to check the sensor voltage's tonight, but I was always under the assumtion that the computer was either good or bad, nothing in between. It either worked or it didn't. Does the code readouts of 14/19 and then 14/22 after the module change point to a dieing computer? Thanks in advance....

 

They're morons. Stay OUT of the "zone" . Your year of computer uses 3-digit codes, so they obviously don't know what the *@#^$ they're doing. Get a paperclip, a pen, and a piece of paper and pull the codes yourself.

The fact that the computer is not only detecting the fault(s), but also reporting the codes, indicates that the computer is doing just fine. Don't even worry about that any more.

When you find out what the real codes are, look them up in the link you'll see in that thread. And get a Haynes manual - it'll show you how to test each sensor & actuator with a cheap multimeter.

 

Find your computer and make sure the connector and circuit board are free of water and salt damage.

Contamination on the connector or circuit board can cause electrical paths to appear where none were before! The results can be completely erratic and confusing.

The circuit boards are coated with an excellent silicone spray but sometimes corrosion builds up between IC pins on the part of the board which is lowest in the case (water sitting in the bottom of the case).

If you find corrosion, buy a can of circuit board cleaner from Radio Shack and clean it with a medium toothbrush. You will be amazed at how well it cleans up.

If any IC pins are missing after clean-up (corroded off), you will have to buy another ECM.

Regards, Robert.