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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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Heater Control Valve location

Hi Guys can anyone tell if there is a heater control valve on A 1999 E 250 Econoline Van 4.2 w/ac and if so where is it?

I followed the heater core lines and pulled the cover off the heater core and do not see it anywhere, so I am starting to think this model van does not have one.

I have no heat and looking into the problem.
I already changed the thermostat and it wasn't the problem.
Next up is to flush the heater core and or replace it.

But I see they sell a heater control valve (Auto Zone, Adavance, etc) for this 99 E250 and I cannot find this valve anywhere on the van.

So any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 07:54 PM
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If it happens to be present, it will be in one of the heater hoses/lines.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 08:36 PM
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Thanks Project, looks like no HCV then on this model. I believe the problem is the heater core then. I had the HC cover off and the engine at running temp, the sides and the top of the HC get hot but not the (center) core itself the core is cool to the touch. So going to flush & BF (&w/air) the core its self from the heater lines a few times and see if this helps or corrects the problem before I replace the HC then.

Thanks again for the quick response!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:25 AM
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Just an update.

I flushed (& BF w/water & air) my heater core by disconnecting the two heater hose from under the hood not from on the heater but after the heater core connections. I hooked the heaters hoses back up and it made a good improvement I now get very warm (not hot) air measured at 85* at the air vents in the dash. This is not hot as it should be imo but a big improvement. I will be doing another flush when I get time maybe next weekend again to see I can improve this even more but much better now. So looks like my problem was/is a clogged up heater core.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 06:05 AM
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FWIW on both my '00 & '03 E250's with the same motor my leaving air temp at the dash vents, engine fully warmed up is about 120*. As already mentioned and your discovery there is no HCV in the hot coolant loop. There is a blend door controlled by the dash temp control and a driving motor---those are sometimes at fault with a lot of Ford vehicles.

85* temp strongly suggests a blocked heater core, you've seen a slight improvement with your efforts so far. Best best now would be replacing it. You've already successfully tackled one of the more challenging parts which is heater hose removal from the core. There are a few threads on the 1968 & Newer Vans forum about this very issue, I did a short write up about R&R'ing the core myself; after removing the hoses this goes pretty quickly, not too difficult.

Link to my own write up, post #6: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...r-problem.html
 
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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Jwa thanks for the info and link! I was wondering what the normal temp (on this motor) from the vent should be around, so thanks for posting it should be around 120*! Just so my above post is clear I didn't remove the heater hoses from the heater core quick connects. I followed one hose about 15" from the heater core quick connect which went into a metal tube which was connected with standard pressure clamp (not a quick connect) and removed the pressure clamp from heater hose and removed the heater hose at that location. I then cut the other hose about 6-8" from the other heater core quick connect and flushed the heater core per above. I then reconnected the one heater hose back with the standard pressure clamp and the one I cut I added a flush system tee and two worm clamps . This turned out to be very quick and easy to do.


I didn't have a disconnect tool or o rings last night so went this route for now to do the flushing to see what the results would be. I will be doing another flush to see if I can get a better improvement before I replace the heater core and tackle those quick connects. Thanks to your post I know where the temp should be about on this motor and should I decide to replace the heater core I will do what you did in your post using the worm clamps to connect to the heater core. I have read the disconnects can be a pain so was wondering if the worm clamps would work for sure till I read your linked post so thanks again for all this info!

 
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 07:27 AM
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The quick connects are a PITA until you get onto them---after that its pretty simple really. Of course if this isn't something you'll be doing often the usual pressure clamps are just fine. I was shocked and a bit miffed when I discovered the quick connects and expensive factory heater core hoses could be easily replaced with standard stuff.

You'll find that the stub tubes on your heater core have the nubs or raised ridge which would easily accommodate the typical heater hose connecting process. This is from an OEM '97 E250:

A few odd things to keep in mind:

-Some heater cores will have both 3/4" and 5/8" ID hose diameters but later models will have two 5/8" ID for some reason.

-Hose out of the manifold has a restriction device inside the factory hose. If you have a stock configuration this is necessary to retain.

-Hose out of manifold on later trucks may have a custom hose that begins with 3/4" ID then reduces to 5/8" ID just after the restriction device.

Glad you're making progress on this---I could NOT live without heat in my work van!

PS & BTW: your font is very difficult to read, for me at least. The default forum font seems best, to these eyes anyway.


HTH
 
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